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Thread started 05 Feb 2007 (Monday) 15:47
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The 24mm TS-E: mixed feelings.

 
Hatem ­ Eldoronki
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Feb 05, 2007 15:47 |  #1

I got the lens last week, and I'm not quite positive about it. Neither do I hate it. I want to mainly shoot wide angle panoramas, and I had high hopes that because of the shifting, my later stitching would be a snap, without having to correct frame-to-frame distortions. I already have previously overcome the parallax error by using a custom L-shaped piece of steel to have any lens' optical center on the center of the tripod, and not the camera on the center of the tripod. I'm sure my words are not right, but you understand..Of course with the TS-E I don't need that custom piece.
Anyhow, since a TS-E lens should naturally overcome parallax errors (right?), turns out it doesn't fix the problem of the lens-specific distortions.
What I want to say is that at 24mm, the lens obviously has barrel distortion. That distortion screws up stitching. (What to do?)
BUT, out of maybe 7 trials, one panorama was just fine.
I now don't know whether I should return this lens, and maybe get a 45mm TS-E instead.
If this is too naiive of a post, I apologize, but I tried researching the lens online, and found little info, and of course found no original size panos to check for it's distortions.
Can you spot any stitching errors in this pano? I didn't have to make any corrections here:
http://www.eldoronki.n​et/images/shop%20rando​m1.jpg (external link) (HUGE FILE WARNING)
I also had to underexpose the midlle shot (out of three)..
In general, does anyone know of a good resource concerned with ts-e lenses?
Thanks a lot..


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René ­ Damkot
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Feb 05, 2007 15:55 |  #2

Hatem Eldoronki wrote in post #2660308 (external link)
I'm sure my words are not right, but you understand..

You mean the nodal point ;)

Huge file indeed...
Downloading now, back in a while ;) Time for some coffee.

I don't see any stitching errors....


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Hatem ­ Eldoronki
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Feb 05, 2007 16:13 as a reply to  @ René Damkot's post |  #3

...and here's the one that drove me nuts: note towards the baseline for example how the lines of the grooves -where the green floor meets the red- do not continue..

http://www.eldoronki.n​et/images/paddle cts 300 errors.jpg WARNING HUGE FILE


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Hatem ­ Eldoronki
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Feb 05, 2007 16:19 |  #4

René Damkot wrote in post #2660359 (external link)
You mean the nodal point ;)

Huge file indeed...
Downloading now, back in a while ;) Time for some coffee.

I don't see any stitching errors....

YES! the nodal point, thank you!


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Mike ­ K
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Feb 05, 2007 17:22 |  #5

Hatem,
What you are trying to do a 3 image pano with a shift lens is called a flat stitch
http://www.outbackphot​o.com/workflow/wf_58/e​ssay.html (external link)
There is a trick to this, and that is described in the artilce above: as you shift the lens to the right you move the camera to the left the identical amount (ie 0.8 or 1.1 cm or whatever). This keeps the lens in exactly the same spot and moves the sensor left and right. Thus there is precisely, absolutely no parallax. If you look at the RRS catalogue, (download it from the website) you will see that the recent L brackets all have indexing marks on both the landscape and portrait sides of the bracket. This helps in aligning the camera shifts in the opposite direction as the lens shift as described above.

Thus you will end up with a pano with an aspect ratio of about 5:2 if shot in landscape mode and 3:4 if in portrait mode.
You do know how to rotate the lens orientation of tilt to shift right?
http://www.outbackphot​o.com/workflow/wf_42/e​ssay.html (external link)

The way you do flat stitching is simply lay one image upon the other, and then in the region where you blend you eliminate some of the overlap with a very soft brush in areas of the overlap slight misalignments would be least noticed. Even if you did have some barrel distortion this can be elimnated with the overlap blending. This method works like a charm and produces a high resolution image just over 2x normal size.
Mike K


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Hatem ­ Eldoronki
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Feb 05, 2007 17:31 |  #6

Mike K,
Great advice! I will try that. I never thought about moving the camera with the lens stationary..


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René ­ Damkot
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Feb 05, 2007 18:05 |  #7

Doh, of course...that should have occurred to me....
Same way you'ld do it with a view camera.


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Hatem ­ Eldoronki
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Feb 14, 2007 12:09 |  #8

Mike K,
I can't thank you enough! I just got a macro rail from adorama, and tested the theory of moving the camera, and I see NO ERRORS!
Although I don't post here much, I always follow and trust all the advice given here. I owe this community everything when it comes to photography!!
Thanks to everybody...


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The 24mm TS-E: mixed feelings.
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