Thoughts on Metz 54-MZ4i

Just wondering if anyone has used Metz flash? How are they compared to our Canon Speedlites? Does it work well with our ETTLII system? Can it work as a slave/master to my 550ex?

I dont believe the 54 will work as a slave (I could be wrong, you can check the manual which is on metz's site) but I love my 54 mostly used in auto mode for pretty consistent exposure. THe ETTL II works fine so long as you understand how ETTL II works (Im still more comfortable with my metz in A or multiple flashes set up manually) but the new metz 58 looks pretty impressive if you also want to integrate it into aEOS speedlight system.

The only 'issue' with Metz 54 is that its wireless mode is not compatible with Canon wireless mode; a Metz54 triggers wirelessly another Metz54 just fine!

I've actually been meaning to readup on this as I have a 54 Mz4 and AF1 (currently in use by a friend), I thought you needed a module to fire remote, if not bonus. I can move forward with my 'low budget' studio plans for even less than I thought.

The 54MZ4 is compatible with Metz wireless; however, the 58AF1 new version is compatible with Canon wireless! So the two will not work with each other under wireless link. The older 54AF1 is not wireless compatible at all.

drats... i guess i'll look for used Canon flash as slaves then.

delhi wrote in post #2711459
drats... i guess i'll look for used Canon flash as slaves then.

Or just get off the extremely expensive Canon flash train all together.

Have you considered relatively inexpensive manual flash units like the Sunpak 383 (about the same power as a Canon 580EX or 550EX but only $80.00)?

Or, get real studio gear like Alien Bee units, still significantly less expensive than Canon Speedlights.

See:
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=242847

And:
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=268574

Enjoy! Lon

I have the MZ-3 which is basically the same as the MZ-4i (which has improvements for Nikon). The only caveat is in ETTLII you can't use a Stofen, as there's some stuff in the head, which stops it working if it's covered. Other than that it's a great flash - see if you can get a good deal on a secondhand one, and it's a bargain, if you buy new, you may be better off with a Canon 580EX (or even a 430EX which is a bit of a steal).

edit:In fact I reread your post and saw that you have a 580EX - go for the 430EX or a 580EX.

goatee wrote in post #2711973
The only caveat is in ETTLII you can't use a Stofen, as there's some stuff in the head, which stops it working if it's covered. .

Someone told me that, too. But it may be a bogus factoid, an urban legend!

I just did a very quick test within recent weeks (I need to follow up with more thorough testing!) where I put a piece of black electrical tape to cover the small little sensor that is in the head of the 54MZ, and it did NOT fool the flash unit like I was led to believe! So jury still needs more information!

ok, that sounds right (its been a while since i've had both flashes so I couldnt remember). maybe i'll see if I can find somewhere local doing trade ins and see how much 2 58's would run me.

Wilt wrote in post #2712844
Someone told me that, too. But it may be a bogus factoid, an urban legend!

I just did a very quick test within recent weeks (I need to follow up with more thorough testing!) where I put a piece of black electrical tape to cover the small little sensor that is in the head of the 54MZ, and it did NOT fool the flash unit like I was led to believe! So jury still needs more information!

I don't think so - when I had a 10D, I always used the MZ-3 on full auto, often with a Stofen, and it worked 100%. When I got the 20D I thought I'd try ETTL2, and it kept on underexposing, or overexposing - I couldn't work out what the problem was, then I read the manual for the SCA shoe (is it the 3102?), and buried in there, was a line saying that you mustn't obscure the head of the flash with a diffuser, or anything else, when in ETTLII mode.

goatee wrote in post #2713244
I don't think so - when I had a 10D, I always used the MZ-3 on full auto, often with a Stofen, and it worked 100%. When I got the 20D I thought I'd try ETTL2, and it kept on underexposing, or overexposing - I couldn't work out what the problem was, then I read the manual for the SCA shoe (is it the 3102?), and buried in there, was a line saying that you mustn't obscure the head of the flash with a diffuser, or anything else, when in ETTLII mode.

Goatee, don't try to tell me what I have seen with my own eyes TWICE (once minutes before posting this!)...

54MZ with straight lens on ETTLII with 20D on M on tripod...identical result with 54MZ with straight lens on ETTLII but with 'sensor' (in the lower left corner looking at flashtube) covered with a piece of black electrical tape with 20D on M on tripod.

Interestingly, when I put the Wescott Micro Apollo softbox over the lens, the result is brighter by about +1EV.

So obsuring with a diffuser DOES make a difference (a better one!) and obscuring with opaque black electrical tape DOES NOT make a difference...very puzzling, and still needing some more study when I have time!

Maybe having the diffuser there means that during the preflash the light bounced back in does some weird voodoo (in a similar way that having IS turned on when mounted on a tripod causes more vibration), whereas the black electrical tape doesn't?