580EX Malfunctioning?

ISO3200 isn't bad at all when you nail exposure. It's the default for the basketball stuff I do at the local University (and they're even Division II) so I can get away with using my 70-200.

TheSteveMadden wrote in post #2713328
Thanks, cdi-ink

SYS, your f/2.8L should handle it. That first shot was with my 85 f/1.8 at f/2.8, 1/100 sec ISO 1600. Two of the three I took of her had motion blur, one severe, but I got lucky with this one. This has to be one of the most demanding shots due to the dim lighting, speed of the event and lack of do-overs. Now that I have my 30D, I'll have to see what H (ISO3200) can do.

I'm looking to upgrade my camera to a FF sometime in the future (hopefully not distant), as I heard great reports about the quality of images at ISO3200. With my current 20D, I took many images at 1600 and feel very comfortable at that ISO range, but I really hesitate to go beyond.

I am very satisified with ISO 3200 on my 5d, and if conditions call for it I don't hesitate to use it. This was handheld at 1/30 in a cold, cold rain.

iof -

Yup, that's what I've been hearing about with the 5D and other FF's. By the way, your photo looks really familiar. Is that John Muir something near S.F.?

As for the malfunctioning flash, I'll just have to do some more testing when I get some time to do it, but I'm pretty happy with some of the possible explanations as to what caused it. I think I can get to the bottom of this soon.

Still, a very relaxing and calming photo. A nice change from the two feet of snow we got this week.

sapearl wrote in post #2713637
Still, a very relaxing and calming photo. A nice change from the two feet of snow we got this week.

Tell me about it! It's freezing - high today only 51F.

I think I'll move to Florida. Wait... I'm already here

SYS -

Armstrong Woods, and yup, an hour or so north of S.F.

iof wrote in post #2713708
SYS -

Armstrong Woods, and yup, an hour or so north of S.F.

Okay, thanks. Not exactly the same location but pretty close. The same trees --the tallest in the world...

Sys,
Don't know about the flash not working (could be two different problems maybe) but my 580 book says that if the diffuser is pulled out (and/or bounce card, I think) the whole display will be flashing to let you know.
I stumbled onto this when I saw my 580 display flashing.
If you come to any other findings, please let us know.
Michael

wdesign1 wrote in post #2714485
Sys,
Don't know about the flash not working (could be two different problems maybe) but my 580 book says that if the diffuser is pulled out (and/or bounce card, I think) the whole display will be flashing to let you know.
I stumbled onto this when I saw my 580 display flashing.
If you come to any other findings, please let us know.
Michael

Like I stated earlier, in that crazy atmosphere with two dozen kids running around, my memory is very fuzzy. But I think it was only the bottom distance scale that was flashing and NOT the whole LCD. At this point I'm inclined to believe that I had accidentally bent the head -7 degrees. Or that my original suspicion that the batteries were losing juice. I'll find it out soon enough, though.

Steve, I love those shots. I'll have to try it sans flash for the next birthday party I'm at.

TheSteveMadden wrote in post #2713163
I pre-Focus on the back of the cake, as that will be close enough and af in low light is iffy.

Another option available, if you have a 20D or better, is to change custom function 7 to prevent the flash from firing (I don't believe this is an option with the Rebel models). This way you can use the AF assist light and nail the focus, which is fairly important with wide apertures.

Another advantage to not using flash is you can shoot in burst mode during the candle-blowing and improve your chances of getting a great shot.

Curtis N wrote in post #2715915
Steve, I love those shots. I'll have to try it sans flash for the next birthday party I'm at.Another option available, if you have a 20D or better, is to change custom function 7 to prevent the flash from firing (I don't believe this is an option with the Rebel models). This way you can use the AF assist light and nail the focus, which is fairly important with wide apertures.

Another advantage to not using flash is you can shoot in burst mode during the candle-blowing and improve your chances of getting a great shot.

Neat tips!!

I got the same problem before when i was shooting a meeting in the Hall, i think i was thinking to get a turbo, at least it is rechargeable and the time of refreshing or recycling is better than full new battery inserted.

If the flash couldn't charge up in time, it still lets you take a photo just it will be dark obviously because of the lack of flash!

It has happened to me before... Batteries... You may also have a dodgy set of batteries as well of course!

Curtis N wrote in post #2715915
Steve, I love those shots. I'll have to try it sans flash for the next birthday party I'm at.Another option available, if you have a 20D or better, is to change custom function 7 to prevent the flash from firing (I don't believe this is an option with the Rebel models). This way you can use the AF assist light and nail the focus, which is fairly important with wide apertures.

Another advantage to not using flash is you can shoot in burst mode during the candle-blowing and improve your chances of getting a great shot.

Thanks, Curtis

Yup, I can't wait for the first party with my 30D. I just have to be a little more alert to what's happening so I have time to change C.Fn-07, but I might not need it with the 30D AF. Besides, AF Assist doesn't work on AI-Servo, and I'll try that to see if it ups my keeper rate.

The 30D has the high precision center AF point and will AF down to EV -0.5 (the XT's lower limit is 0.5).

Hmmm... maybe I'll practice with one of my boys and a box of candles to see what works best so I'll be ready

The XT was always a balancing act between motion blur and focus accuracy wide open. I stepped down my primes to f/2.5-f/2.8 because I didn't trust them wide open (my XT might need calibrating - again). I ended up at the limits of handholdability and subject motion blur at 85mm because I was at 1/80-1/120s.