Approve the Cookies
This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and our Privacy Policy.
OK
Forums  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear
Guest
Forums  •   • New posts  •   • RTAT  •   • 'Best of'  •   • Gallery  •   • Gear
Register to forums    Log in

 
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 19 Feb 2007 (Monday) 14:59
Search threadPrev/next
sponsored links (only for non-logged)

Quality of light

 
drogos
Goldmember
Avatar
1,269 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Jan 2007
Location: CHICAGO
     
Feb 19, 2007 14:59 |  #1

if this was ever discussed (obviously it was) i apologize but couldn't find answears to a very simple question i have

what does quality of light mean??? ....very commonly used or rather abused phrase ...power of light, consistency ..i get all that ...but how do i recognize monolights with "good quality light" ..maybe someone has a ready samples to show good quality vs. poor quality light ... and obviously we are leaving light modifiers aside ..thats not the subject .... i guess i want to ask ...besides power and any other variables what's the difference between my cheapy alienbees and high end lighting when it goes to the final "look" of the picture


Lukasz Drogowski
Chicago Wedding Photographer (external link)
canon MARK III / 5D II / 5d / 24-70L, 50 1.4, 85 1.2 M2, 70-200 2.8 IS, Sigma 20mm 1.8 / 580ex / 580exII / 600ex

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
DaveG
Goldmember
2,040 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Aug 2003
Location: Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
     
Feb 19, 2007 17:32 |  #2

There seems to be two different areas for quality of light. The first would be colour temperature. Early morning light is directional and "warm" in so far as there is more red in the light. By mid day the light is above, the shadows horrible and the colour temperature cooler. At sunset we repeat the early morning situation. "Warm" almost always is preceived to be better than "cool" and of a hiring "quality".

With artifical lighting direction is often the key to good light, although early morning light is directionsal as well. Camera based flash is very bad and the light is flat. It's literally flat. The flash goes out and strikes the subject. Assuming that the subject is exposed properly then everything behind them is dark and everything in front of them is over exposed. The is one plane the is properly illuminated and planes are flat.

The trick is to move the Main light away from the camera. Make it approach the subject from a different angle. This creates a depth to the lighting. Try this: Have a subject stand in front of you in a dark room. Take a bright flashlight or some type of house pot light and shine it on the subject from dead in front of them. Now have the subject turn their head to their left. Place the light source in front of them and go back to where you were. Now all of the light is coming from your right and the subject is looking into the light. See how the light creates a depth as it fades on their face?

This is a quality of light. You can further modify the lighting with a fill to reduce the contrast and to open up the shadows. After Fill and Main you can add hairlights, accent lights, and background lights, but I think that the quality of light is mostly Main and Fill, but propely used those other lights can enhance the overall image and the quality of light.

Here's a shot where the Main light is to the left. I used a Fill flash, at the camera position, to maintain detail in the shadow. With the Main coming from this off camera position I've also created an artificial depth to the image. If you were standing at the Main light position you can see how that light evenly lit up his face. But from this position you can see how it tapers off.

Althought here are bound to be more comments this is how I would define quality of light.


HOSTED PHOTO
please log in to view hosted photos in full size.


"There's never time to do it right. But there's always time to do it over."
Canon 5D, 50D; 16-35 f2.8L, 24-105 f4L IS, 50 f1.4, 100 f2.8 Macro, 70-200 f2.8L, 300mm f2.8L IS.

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Don ­ Powell
Senior Member
461 posts
Joined Nov 2005
     
Feb 19, 2007 19:03 as a reply to  @ DaveG's post |  #3

Wow, what a good question. A question not easily answered. I will try to touch on a few points. Good light is light that is flattering to the subject, be it human, animal, or a scene. Man has been studying the quality of light, and how it affects our perception, for millennia. Read about, or simply observe painters like Rembrandt. If they wanted to render their subjects as masterpieces, then the lighting had to appear masterfully rendered. As lighting is used in photography, there are important aspects of it that can be manipulated to flatter the subject. Color temperature, softness, and direction are the main considerations. When using artificial light, such as flash or continuous, it is usually beneficial to soften, ( diffuse ) the light for human faces, and products and such. Now, if you manipulate this light so that it is the most flattering, the person will not be able to tell if you used an Allien Bee, a Speedotron, a Dynalite, or whatever. There is a saying that, "light is light". There is truth to this saying, but the more you study, understand and learn to manipulate light, the better your photography can be. There is one very important difference between artificial light and sun light that you should know, and that is light fall off. when you use your flash the light intensity decreases rapidly, as apposed to sunlight. One can diffuse, angle, and change distance to have this light wrap around, so to speak, the subject and create the elusion of being three dimensional. The main difference, to me, in the various studio lighting is, power, ease of use, accessories ( ability to almost endlessly modify light quality ), and dependability. I hope this helps.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
drogos
THREAD ­ STARTER
Goldmember
Avatar
1,269 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Jan 2007
Location: CHICAGO
     
Feb 19, 2007 19:15 |  #4

thx for reply guys ...so Don what you are saying is that employing right technic will alow me to get proffesional results even with cheap alienbee ?? ..ok what about bulbs, amount of bulbs, the temperature of those bulbs ??? temperature is obviously a matter of WB adjustment ...but still there is got to be something that makes those extremly expensive light appealing for proffesionals ...it can't be just power and customization options ..i don't think that 1600 ws bee would not be enough for most of studio setups ...still a lot of people will raher pay 6x more for other lights ..... maybe i am dragging the subject a little but i am new to studio lighting and that is my learning process i can't continue with another step until i get all my answears first:)


Lukasz Drogowski
Chicago Wedding Photographer (external link)
canon MARK III / 5D II / 5d / 24-70L, 50 1.4, 85 1.2 M2, 70-200 2.8 IS, Sigma 20mm 1.8 / 580ex / 580exII / 600ex

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
TMR ­ Design
Cream of the Crop
Avatar
23,883 posts
Likes: 12
Joined Feb 2006
Location: Huntington Station, NY
     
Feb 19, 2007 19:35 |  #5

Don Powell wrote in post #2738018 (external link)
Wow, what a good question. A question not easily answered. I will try to touch on a few points. Good light is light that is flattering to the subject, be it human, animal, or a scene. Man has been studying the quality of light, and how it affects our perception, for millennia. Read about, or simply observe painters like Rembrandt. If they wanted to render their subjects as masterpieces, then the lighting had to appear masterfully rendered. As lighting is used in photography, there are important aspects of it that can be manipulated to flatter the subject. Color temperature, softness, and direction are the main considerations. When using artificial light, such as flash or continuous, it is usually beneficial to soften, ( diffuse ) the light for human faces, and products and such. Now, if you manipulate this light so that it is the most flattering, the person will not be able to tell if you used an Allien Bee, a Speedotron, a Dynalite, or whatever. There is a saying that, "light is light". There is truth to this saying, but the more you study, understand and learn to manipulate light, the better your photography can be. There is one very important difference between artificial light and sun light that you should know, and that is light fall off. when you use your flash the light intensity decreases rapidly, as apposed to sunlight. One can diffuse, angle, and change distance to have this light wrap around, so to speak, the subject and create the elusion of being three dimensional. The main difference, to me, in the various studio lighting is, power, ease of use, accessories ( ability to almost endlessly modify light quality ), and dependability. I hope this helps.

Great anwer Don. Thank you.


Robert
RobertMitchellPhotogra​phy (external link)

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
Don ­ Powell
Senior Member
461 posts
Joined Nov 2005
     
Feb 19, 2007 19:39 as a reply to  @ drogos's post |  #6

Yes, I am saying that one can get professionl results with less expensive lights. There are differences, of course, in the ease of use. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Alien Bees only have 100-150 watt modeling lights, while the more expensive units have at least 200-250 watts. The more expensive units have shorter recycle times. With brighter modeling lights, and faster recycle, it is easier to focus, capture a look when shooting people. Usually one would think that more expensive is more reliable, but I have heard some bad things about some expensive stuff. I have White Lightning and Speedotron, and they have been easy to use and very reliable. They are old now and I don't use them much anymore.




  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
drogos
THREAD ­ STARTER
Goldmember
Avatar
1,269 posts
Likes: 1
Joined Jan 2007
Location: CHICAGO
     
Feb 19, 2007 20:11 |  #7

yeah i have only 100 w modeling bulb ..i can get 150 but with tracking off it seems to be enough


Lukasz Drogowski
Chicago Wedding Photographer (external link)
canon MARK III / 5D II / 5d / 24-70L, 50 1.4, 85 1.2 M2, 70-200 2.8 IS, Sigma 20mm 1.8 / 580ex / 580exII / 600ex

  
  LOG IN TO REPLY
sponsored links (only for non-logged)

1,259 views & 0 likes for this thread, 4 members have posted to it.
Quality of light
FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
AAA
x 1600
y 1600

Jump to forum...   •  Rules   •  Forums   •  New posts   •  RTAT   •  'Best of'   •  Gallery   •  Gear   •  Reviews   •  Member list   •  Polls   •  Image rules   •  Search   •  Password reset   •  Home

Not a member yet?
Register to forums
Registered members may log in to forums and access all the features: full search, image upload, follow forums, own gear list and ratings, likes, more forums, private messaging, thread follow, notifications, own gallery, all settings, view hosted photos, own reviews, see more and do more... and all is free. Don't be a stranger - register now and start posting!


COOKIES DISCLAIMER: This website uses cookies to improve your user experience. By using this site, you agree to our use of cookies and to our privacy policy.
Privacy policy and cookie usage info.


POWERED BY AMASS forum software 2.58forum software
version 2.58 /
code and design
by Pekka Saarinen ©
for photography-on-the.net

Latest registered member was a spammer, and banned as such!
2217 guests, 131 members online
Simultaneous users record so far is 15,144, that happened on Nov 22, 2018

Photography-on-the.net Digital Photography Forums is the website for photographers and all who love great photos, camera and post processing techniques, gear talk, discussion and sharing. Professionals, hobbyists, newbies and those who don't even own a camera -- all are welcome regardless of skill, favourite brand, gear, gender or age. Registering and usage is free.