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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 05 Mar 2007 (Monday) 01:51
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a better bounce card

 
azpix
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Mar 05, 2007 01:51 |  #1

A couple better bounce card questions.

  • What is the most effective range between the subject and camera for the better bounce card?

  • Does anyone have the recommended layout/dimmensions for the better bounce card. I tried to get it from the site tonight but I could get the video to play.

Gear- 7d, 24-70L, sigma 70-200, Sigma 120-400, canon 50 1.4, Canon 100 2.0,sigma 10-20 and a DJI Mavic Pro Drone

  
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Curtis ­ N
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Mar 05, 2007 10:42 |  #2

1) The effective range depends on a number of factors, including ceiling height, ceiling color, aperture, ISO, flash power, flash zoom setting, size of ABBC, etc. In general, bounced flash works great in residential, office and classroom environments. Its limitations are significant in large rooms.

2) Part of the idea is that you can experiment with different sizes/shapes/designs with minimal expense. Maybe try to err on the large side, as you can always cut it down to make it smaller. You might find some useful info in this thread.


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azpix
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Mar 05, 2007 11:08 |  #3

Thanks Curtis.

Your input is Always apprecitated.


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mbellot
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Mar 05, 2007 12:33 as a reply to  @ azpix's post |  #4

Dimensions on the ABBC are pretty simple, assuming you aren't trying to deviate.

Assuming a standard 8.5" x 11" you mark one of the 8.5" sides in 2" from each corner (so you have three "segments, 2", 4.5" and 2").

Draw a line from each of the 2" marks to the far corner so you end up with a trapezoid.

At this point you can hack down the 11" dimension to whatever suits your needs, IIRC the recommended starting point was around 6". Just remember to keep the 4.5" side since thats what wraps around the flash.

One of the nice things about the ABBC (if you make if from foam) is you can fold it back for less forward light or forward (I've mashed mine pretty hard a couple times) and it will do a pretty decent job of throwing the light forward when the ceilings are too high. Not perfect, but pretty good.

Another POTN member souped their's up with a black backer and some velcro to better control and position the forward throwing bit.

If you want to experiment with shapes/sizes first just use a decent quality inkjet paper, but I've even used cheap copy paper in a bind.




  
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azpix
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Mar 05, 2007 20:07 |  #5

thank mbellot.


one more question on the BBC. What is the purpose of turning the head of the flash so the narrow side is facing the subject? It's seemed odd, anyone know if there is a reason for this?


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mbellot
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Mar 05, 2007 22:21 |  #6

azpix wrote in post #2821816 (external link)
thank mbellot.


one more question on the BBC. What is the purpose of turning the head of the flash so the narrow side is facing the subject? It's seemed odd, anyone know if there is a reason for this?

Because you can then rotate it 90 degrees for portrait shots.

Its not as harsh as straight on flash from the side at producing shadows, but its probably nowhere near as good as using a real bracket that keeps the flash above the lens all the time (don't have one, so I can't say for sure).




  
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a better bounce card
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