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Thread started 08 Mar 2007 (Thursday) 11:37
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Canon 20d Focus ..Help please

 
StroupePhotography
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Mar 08, 2007 11:37 |  #1

This is the test I tried.
http://www.photo.net/l​earn/focustest/ (external link)

Darrell


Darrell...Canon XT (for sell )..40d.5D..
Canon50 mm f/1.8 II,28-135 IS, Ab 800, AB Large softbox,, (2)WL 1600 and brolly,Still building back more as money allows
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adas
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Mar 08, 2007 12:08 |  #2

I don't get it, how can a lens shoot "to the right" or "to the left" in a focus test. The two options are always behind or in front of the focus target. And ofcourse spot on. Maybe by uploading an example it would get clearer.


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mbellot
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Mar 08, 2007 12:39 |  #3

adas wrote in post #2837506 (external link)
I don't get it, how can a lens shoot "to the right" or "to the left" in a focus test. The two options are always behind or in front of the focus target. And ofcourse spot on. Maybe by uploading an example it would get clearer.

If you follow the link it takes youto an (old) Bob Atkins article on focus testing.

The chart is vertical (straight up and down) and angled away from the camera (think half open door), so left and right equate to front and back depending on which side of the chart is closest to the camera.

To the OP: some of *your* test shots would help...




  
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adas
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Mar 08, 2007 12:53 |  #4

Oh sorry, I didn't notice the link.


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StewartR
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Mar 08, 2007 16:25 |  #5

Show us some examples, Darrell. A picture is worth a thousand words.


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StroupePhotography
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Mar 08, 2007 19:42 as a reply to  @ StewartR's post |  #6

I will post a few examples. I did a ctrl print screen to capture screen so you can see focus point and shot info. This was just a quick job so don`t knock me for WB and such. I hope you can see what I mean by the examples. I seem to notice that when I move further away from the target that is when I get alot of focus at different places besides my dead on middle focus .

http://i128.photobucke​t.com …/dstroupe/focus​-6-web.jpg (external link)

http://i128.photobucke​t.com …/dstroupe/focus​-5-web.jpg (external link)

http://i128.photobucke​t.com …/p175/dstroupe/​focus3.jpg (external link)

http://i128.photobucke​t.com …dstroupe/focus-3-web.jpeg (external link)

http://i128.photobucke​t.com …/dstroupe/focus​-2-web.jpg (external link)

http://i128.photobucke​t.com …/dstroupe/focus​-1-web.jpg (external link)


Darrell...Canon XT (for sell )..40d.5D..
Canon50 mm f/1.8 II,28-135 IS, Ab 800, AB Large softbox,, (2)WL 1600 and brolly,Still building back more as money allows
http://stroupephotogra​phy.smugmug.com/ (external link)

  
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StroupePhotography
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Mar 08, 2007 19:47 as a reply to  @ StroupePhotography's post |  #7

"http://i128.photobucke​t.com …/p175/dstroupe/​focus8.jpg (external link)"

"http://i128.photobucke​t.com …/dstroupe/focus​-7-web.jpg (external link)"


Darrell...Canon XT (for sell )..40d.5D..
Canon50 mm f/1.8 II,28-135 IS, Ab 800, AB Large softbox,, (2)WL 1600 and brolly,Still building back more as money allows
http://stroupephotogra​phy.smugmug.com/ (external link)

  
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mbellot
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Mar 08, 2007 19:59 as a reply to  @ StroupePhotography's post |  #8

Darrel,

Hard to say for sure from those shots, but a couple comments.

For the bird shots, the bird is just too small... You need to consider the actual focus point ~ 3x bigger than the quare thats shown in the viewfinder (imagine its the center square in tic-tac-toe). The focus system will lock onto the area of highest contrast within that nine square area.

Moving further back from the focus chart could have similar implications since the focus system might pick up on any of the other lines - one of the biggest reasons that shooting a ruler as a test is just plain stupid.

The focus charts are hard to read the way you posted them. Can you post the originals (make sure they are linked)?

EDIT: One more thing... I know its not easy with the 20D, but have you tried manual focusing on the target to see what kind of results you get?




  
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Hermeto
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Mar 08, 2007 20:02 as a reply to  @ mbellot's post |  #9
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It’s quite confusing this way, why don’t you try this focus test:

http://focustestchart.​com/chart.html (external link)

Show us actual images please, not screen shots from your monitor..


What we see depends mainly on what we look for.

  
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StroupePhotography
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Mar 09, 2007 06:56 |  #10

mbellot wrote in post #2839744 (external link)
Darrel,

Hard to say for sure from those shots, but a couple comments.

For the bird shots, the bird is just too small... You need to consider the actual focus point ~ 3x bigger than the quare thats shown in the viewfinder (imagine its the center square in tic-tac-toe). The focus system will lock onto the area of highest contrast within that nine square area.

EDIT: One more thing... I know its not easy with the 20D, but have you tried manual focusing on the target to see what kind of results you get?

So are you saying the birds need to be closer and the focus point should cover the whole bird ? I will try to get closer today and see if that solves that part. I was about 75 feet away when I took the bird shots so that may help. I tried manual focus and it was the same as Auto.


Darrell...Canon XT (for sell )..40d.5D..
Canon50 mm f/1.8 II,28-135 IS, Ab 800, AB Large softbox,, (2)WL 1600 and brolly,Still building back more as money allows
http://stroupephotogra​phy.smugmug.com/ (external link)

  
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StroupePhotography
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Mar 09, 2007 06:58 |  #11

Hermeto wrote in post #2839755 (external link)
It’s quite confusing this way, why don’t you try this focus test:

http://focustestchart.​com/chart.html (external link)

Show us actual images please, not screen shots from your monitor..

I tried that test last night and could not believe what I was seeing... Spot on . Iwill post pictures below. So what mbellot was saying above about the bird was too small and the focus point square was 3x bigger may be true .


Darrell...Canon XT (for sell )..40d.5D..
Canon50 mm f/1.8 II,28-135 IS, Ab 800, AB Large softbox,, (2)WL 1600 and brolly,Still building back more as money allows
http://stroupephotogra​phy.smugmug.com/ (external link)

  
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StroupePhotography
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Mar 09, 2007 09:08 |  #12

85 mm f/1.8 first then 70-200 at 200 mm f/4


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Darrell...Canon XT (for sell )..40d.5D..
Canon50 mm f/1.8 II,28-135 IS, Ab 800, AB Large softbox,, (2)WL 1600 and brolly,Still building back more as money allows
http://stroupephotogra​phy.smugmug.com/ (external link)

  
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StroupePhotography
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Mar 09, 2007 09:11 |  #13

50 mm f/1.8 then Sigma 28-70 f/2.8 at 70 mm


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Darrell...Canon XT (for sell )..40d.5D..
Canon50 mm f/1.8 II,28-135 IS, Ab 800, AB Large softbox,, (2)WL 1600 and brolly,Still building back more as money allows
http://stroupephotogra​phy.smugmug.com/ (external link)

  
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Hermeto
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Mar 09, 2007 09:36 as a reply to  @ StroupePhotography's post |  #14
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So, you’ve confirmed that all your lenses are autofocusing corectly.
Congratulations!
Now, go out, have fun and enjoy shooting some real pictures..


What we see depends mainly on what we look for.

  
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mbellot
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Mar 09, 2007 10:51 as a reply to  @ Hermeto's post |  #15

Well I guess its good news/bad news time.

Good news is - all your gear is in tip top order. :D

Bad news is - Nothing left to blame but your technique. ;)

Best thing you can do now is practice. "Film" is free, so go nuts learning the ins and outs of how your camera works. Just keep thinking about contrast and edges, since thats how the focus system works.




  
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Canon 20d Focus ..Help please
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