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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos The Business of Photography 
Thread started 08 Mar 2007 (Thursday) 21:27
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Photographing framed pictures?

 
customactionphotos
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Mar 08, 2007 21:27 |  #1

Hi All,

I have been asked to photograph some framed sports memorabillia for a website. My question is how should I set up? I don't have any special lights, umbrella or equiptment. I have a 20d, markIIn, 580ex, 70-200mm2.8is, 85mm1.8 and 28-300mm tamron. How should I setup and what should I rent? I need to eliminate the glare from the glass.

Thank you,
Tony Le




  
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gardenstate
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Mar 09, 2007 06:57 |  #2

please see
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=70309

When I photograph framed pictures, I shoot the image from an angle to avoid glare from the flash. Afterwards, I use the PERSPECTIVE CORRECTION feature in Corel Paint Shop Pro to "square" the frame. Photoshop has a similar function.

Paint Shop Pro
http://graphicssoft.ab​out.com …oppro/ss/straig​hten_6.htm (external link)
Photoshop
http://www.outbackphot​o.com …erspectiveCorre​ction.html (external link)




  
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customactionphotos
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Mar 09, 2007 08:18 |  #3

Thank you!




  
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Actionphotog
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Mar 09, 2007 10:09 |  #4

I do alot of this for people that need it for insurance reasons.
The last one I did was for paintings by "Max Weber" Yeap the guy that invited Picaso to the US. His son Mo Weber is getting ready to donate them. Yeap I'm braggin.
These painting do not have glass, are in the original frames from the 1920's and dusty.

Try and shot them on the WALL, Use shims to help level the painting. i.e. flat against the wall
Make sure you are square to the painting
Level with the painting, camera centered.
Include the frame in the shot
Shot in RAW RAW RAW RAW
Now for the easy part Lights
You can use strobes or direct lights
lights should be level with the center of the painting and @ 45 or more degrees to the left and right of the painting.
Remember that with Oil paintings if your lights are not the same power you will create shadows because of the texture.
Ideally you would lay the painting flat on a very low table and shot down.
ISO100 is best for more detail
If you do it right the only editing you will do is to crop it and save it for the web.


Graeme Davies
Mountain Memories Photography & Internet Access
~ A whole lot of lens, Non-Digital & Digital Studio strobe and a whole lot of props~

  
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Actionphotog
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Mar 09, 2007 10:11 |  #5

Opps forgot to say use your MarkII and the 85mm 1.8


Graeme Davies
Mountain Memories Photography & Internet Access
~ A whole lot of lens, Non-Digital & Digital Studio strobe and a whole lot of props~

  
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amonline
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Mar 10, 2007 22:00 |  #6

From mucho experience...

If you are not concerned with color accuracy, use a CP. Light the subject from R&L 45 degrees. (multi shop reflectors w/ 5500K bulbs) Pay careful attention to even lighting and make sure that only your lighting is hitting the subject alone. Personally, I use 6 5500K bulbs for even continuous lighting.

Set your best lens to 50mm (least distortion) and position the camera on a tripod where the subject fills the frame. Level the camera's POV with the exact center of the subject and use a remote. Set the camera to AWB and adjust accordingly for manual shooting at a low (100-200) ISO. If you have a WhiBal, put it in a sample shot. (right in the center) Take two w/ a card, 2 w/o.

If color accuracy is of concern, do not use a CP and position you and the camera in the dark. Do all of the above in relation to lighting and shooting.

For color accuracy, open in DPP and click the card for your WB. change the sat to +1 and the sharpness to +5. Export to PS. (for 5500K) Under "selective color", add 20% yellow to the yellows. Some deep siennas (magentas) and vivid blues might require adjustment. I would think for the web, accuracy is of little concern.

If you use LR or ACR, you're on your own for color calibration.

Keep copyright law in mind when photographing copyrighted works. ;)




  
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Photographing framed pictures?
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