question about off-camera bracket

I met a photog downtown today who was using one of these to take pictures of people. Every now and then I'll come across someone who is using one.

My question... when does this bracket become necessary? I typically just mount my flash to the hotshoe when I need it.

Thanks.

SBCmetroguy wrote in post #2849448
...when does this bracket become necessary?

Answer: When you shoot 1) on-the-go, 2) a lot of flash events of people, 3) with camera in vertical portrait orientation. There are few substitutes for a flash rotation bracket. When I'm really on-the-go, I'll just use an Off-Shoe-Cord and hold the flash, otherwise a CB Jr., which is typical of the products out there.

Few people say it better than Chuck Gardener, so I'll just cut and paste a quote from his site:
"A single direct hot shoe flash regardless of where it is positioned will create sharply defined dark shadows because the size of the lightsource is small and there is no secondary light source to "fill" and modulate the tone of the shadows. A camera hot shoe locates a flash as close as possible to the lens axis to minimize shadows; just enough above the lens to prevent "red eye" reflections from the retinas of the person being photographed. That works OK in landscape mode, but when the camera is turned sideways into "portrait" orientation the flash moves down beside the lens which creates a harsh distracting shadows behind and to the side subject. Photographers learned to solve that shadow problem by raising the flash a foot or more directly above the lens with a bracket. When a flash is raised directly above the lens, the head shadow falls down behind the shoulders out of sight. The potentially distracting nose shadow falls below the nose in a full face view or behind the nose in an oblique view where is it barely noticed."
Here's his site: http://super.nova.org/​DPR/Design/

Jack

Jack's remarks represent the most important reason to use a bracket.

Another reason is redeye prevention. When you shoot in dark environments at some distance (say 20 feet), you can get redeye even with a hotshoe flash. A bracket raises the flash several inches higher to prevent this phenomenon.

A flash bracket will do more to improve the look of indoor flash shots than just about anything else. I rarely use a flash indoors without one.

Thanks for the explanations!

With the bracket, do you still turn your flash head toward the subject, or does it fire off to the side or above the subject?

Sorry if I'm making this more complicated than it should be. I understand the basic principle now, but I'm just curious about the direction of the flash when it's mounted on one of these.

Bouncing and flash rotation are not "mutually exclusive tactics." Flash sits on rotation bracket just like it would be in hotshoe. When you are in portrait orientation, it rotates, staying in same orientation. Go play with one at a shop.

I've been plenty times with flash in hotshoe, camera held portrait orientation, flash head rotated about 80 degrees-right, bouncing off ceiling. Bouncing depends on distance and color of bounce surface and exposure goal of photo.
Plenty good tutorials by Curtis here on POTN and other places about bouncing flash.

BTW, While a flash bracket can be a be honkin rig, one side benefit is when working big crowded events (like conferences), persons see you, know you're a photog there to make the shot, and they move the hell out of the way, and don't interfere with getting the photo and doing the job!
Jack

Ha, thanks for the reply Jack!

I think I'll eventually end up investing in one. I can truly see the value of it now. I honestly thought it was virtually useless... mostly something to be seen with rather than for functionality.

I appreciate the help.

What bracket do you use Curtis?

I use the Stroboframe CameraFlip. It sells for around $75 at B&H. There are more expensive brands out there, but this gets the job done. Note that it won't work with a battery grip or a 1D series camera.

If you decide to buy one, there are a few assembly tips in this thread.

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Why won't it work with a grip? Does it attach at the tripod mount only?

lhoney2 wrote in post #2852736
Why won't it work with a grip? Does it attach at the tripod mount only?

Because there is not enough space for the camera to turn if a grip is attached.

I used the bracket in my sig and it works with a grip.

lhoney2 wrote in post #2852736
Why won't it work with a grip? Does it attach at the tripod mount only?

I don't know where else you would attach one.

When you look at the picture in vertical orientation, you can see that there isn't much room between the end of the sync cord on the hotshoe and the handle of the bracket. A grip has its own tripod mounting hole, but it adds too much height to the camera to fit on this bracket.

You may be using the wrong bracket. I use a Stroboframe.

Attach the battery to the BOTTOM of the Stroboframe (if you're using a Quantum or something similar). That will allow for a grip on the bottom horizontal part of the bracket.My Stroboframe allows me to move the part that holds the flash upwards about another 3/4", allowing for the battery grip.

Modine wrote in post #2853918
I use a Stroboframe.

There are eleven different Stroboframe models, and a lot of diversity among them. Some accomodate a battery grip, some don't.

The simple styles like the Stroboframe Quick Flipwill work with a grip, but the way they turn the flash sideways makes them incompatible with certain modifiers like the Lumiquest products and are awkward at best when used with a tripod.

Curtis,

Thanks for the info. Though I do not use any modifiers with my Stroboframe, I hadn't given that any thought.

I will be purchasing a Camera Flip soon and fully intend to modify it so that my 20D with grip will work properly. I realize there will be a slight offset of the flash-above-lens alignment in "portrait" mode, but I am fully willing to live with that small problem. I intend to make an extension for the connection between the handle and the base. When I have it done, photos will be available.