New Rebel XTi owner - Need advice for lenses for filming Cars/Sleds

I was just surprised we have products coming at us weekly for promotional exposure etc, not even a discount whatsoever.

2KOOL Performance.com wrote in post #2900376
Jeff

can you tell us what settings, lens you used for that 2nd shot which is amazing??

First image 1DmkII w/ 100-400L AV mode ISO 200 1/800 sec f-8 @ 400mm

Second image 1DmkII w/ 100-400L AV mode ISO 400 1/1250 sec f-8 @ 220mm

2KOOL Performance.com wrote in post #2900376
Talked to CANON about help for the site etc for free advertising and promotion etc. They have no interest whatsoever and won't even give any discount on any product so honestly? at this time I'm a bit disappointed we went with CANON over another brand, surely there would have been 'some' degree of support for what we had to offer. Furthermore, the rep I spoke with would not even give any advice whatsoever on lenses ?

Keep an eye on the link provided above ... I'll be adding the drag shots tonight

You would actually be better off getting your camera gear sponsorship through your local camera dealer. He is the one that inevitably will benefit from the promotion.

Will check later for the Drag Photos...

Nice photo's Big'n ... your shutter speed 1/800 and 1/1200 I was told to try max 1/500 other guys were suggesting 1/320 ??

Would this lens be ok guys, considering we're getting pretty close to the action and since accepted a perfec lens is like $1500 US ( see ridiculous )
http://www.canogacamer​a.com/detail.aspx?ID=4​491

and considering there's no help from any of these companies for cross promotion and free advertising etc... would this be the very best price?

The 28-135 is a good lens, but you're going to have to go at least the 70-300 IS for action.. http://www.canogacamer​a.com/detail.aspx?ID=2​2655 The 70-300 is not a great lens but it is a start. You may be able to get one for around the same price If it works out well for you, you can move up to the 100-400 later..

Where in Ontario are you?

or how about this and call it a day L! and use a tripod to keep images stable? seems like a good way to save $1200 Canadian?

http://www.digicombos.​com/product_p/cn75300.​htm

BigRed450 wrote in post #2903513
The 28-135 is a good lens, but you're going to have to go at least the 70-300 IS for action.. http://www.canogacamer​a.com/detail.aspx?ID=2​2655 The 70-300 is not a great lens but it is a start. You may be able to get one for around the same price If it works out well for you, you can move up to the 100-400 later..

Where in Ontario are you?

Eastern Ontario....

can you explain your post.... why the 70-300 IS ( considering I could use a tripod at all times if necessary ) is better for action than 28-135 especially when we can get pretty close to these sleds racing or during radar events?

The 75-300 may work for a while but its not a very good lens. Totally up to you..

1/ Better background blur.
2/ Better working distance (safety).
3/ Easier to pan.
Yaddayadda...
But why don't you try to take a shot that looks like his and see what you get?

agreed... good point PhotosGuy

Just can't believe those lenses are worth that kinda coin

The 70-300 IS is a better lens all round then the 75-300 ie better glass, better build etc. The 100-400 on the otherhand is even that much better and carries the L (Pro) designation. You'll soon find, you get what you pay for in the photo equipment world. There is good reason those lenses are $2000+.
In this business the camera is nothing without good glass..

You could see if there is a shop in your area you can rent a lens and try it out.

I have a Tamron 70-300 F4-5.6 honestly I get great pictures out of it. It wasn't expensive as my other 2 lenses and it takes great pictures on a tripod so no complaint.

does it have image stabilization Mortgage 101 ?

TTT

For taking anything that's moving using a tripod especially for motorposrt peronsally speaking is pointless, you you can't get a steady shot of something moving fast with whatever lens in the 200mm range with a shutter speed of 1/250 or above then you must have shaky hands.

Using 1/250 or 1/320 is to still show a little movement in the tyres or whatever is moving as you have to pan slightly with the target and it will give a little bit of movement still showing it was moving and not stood still like it will look if you take it any faster.