Kim22 wrote in post #2886169
I've got a bright white backdrop. It is always really wrinkly and there's nothing I can do about it. It's a weird plasticy-cloth fabric, so I can't iron it. I've been playing with it a lot, trying to fully blow it out but then my subjects have parts of them blown out, too.
I have the following strobes: (1) AB 800 (with 48" brolly box), (1) AB 400 (with 48" brolly box), and (1) super cheap strobe that I bought off of Ebay that I can't put an umbrella on or it doesn't fire (this is the one I've been aiming at the white backdrop to blow it out.
The backdrop is 10x24', I believe.
I'd like to try something new.
What would you do with this setup? 1. You might want to try some alligator clips and bungie cords to keep the background tight on the sides, painters or gaphers tape on the floor...
1a. If your shooting on a solid surface. Spend $40ish on some white seamless and don't worry about any of this.
2. You might want to try a sheet of clear plexy glass 4'x8' for your subject to stand on. This will also introduce nice reflections and really flattens things out on carpet.
3. Use one of your AB's to light the BG without any modifiers. Point it 1/3 of the way in from the far side and on average, half the high of your subject. If you can mount it on the ceiling, then point it 1/3 of the way up from the floor and center it on your BG.
3a. Make sure the BG light does not "touch" the subject. Test this by only firing the BG light with your subject in position. Do not fire any other lights and inspect the picture on your computer. ie. The AB lights are 80 degree spread using the standard hood, your subject should not be within that 80 degree arc of light that is exposing the BG.
3b. When viewing the same picture on the computer, verify that there are no "halo's" of light or reflections that might wash out the contrast of the subject. This is where the 1.5 extra stops are important. 2 stops or more might introduce "halo's". Hmmmm, think "sun spots" when you take outdoor pictures with the sun behind your subject. Its so bright that the right of light messes with the contrast of your subject.
4. Use photoshop or similar "dodge" tool. If an option is available for "highlights" only, use that and apply at maybe, 10 to 20% opacity and flow. Watch out for white articles of clothing, belts, etc. this tool will "blow" them out as well as the BG.
5. Use ONE AB on the subject and invest in a reflector and holder that you can place opposite the subject for fill.
6. Shoot in RAW and adjust later. Set the White Balance to 5600 degree's and boost saturation by 10% to 20%. Adjust brightness and contrast to taste.
7. Shoot with a longer lens if you have the space.
So, where does you meter play in all of this? Several of your pics are white on white. Very difficult!
Since the BG light is at a constant distance from the BG, no matter how far or close you are to the subject, you will always have the same BG exposure. However, when you place the subject and THEY are moving around and YOU are moving around, most likely your MAIN light is not moving. Therefore, you need to adjust it more often when there is movement, especially if the subject is wearing white. Just because you want to blow out the BG, does not mean that you should blow out the subject as well.
Most importantly, you've got pictures of several people all with the same results. Borrow one person until you get the results you want. Document each of the shots and get basics down.
BG first. SET EXPOSURE, DON'T CHANGE.
Subject next, meter, chimp and histogram ONE MAIN light ONLY.
ADJUST MAIN if distance or sujbect changes require.
PLAY, DOCUMENT and REMEMBER
You might want to document with a small white dry erase board. As long as your not directly reflecting the MAIN light back to the camera, its an easy way to chimp the subjects exposure when testing.
Just kidding, of course. I do have a Sekonic 308. I haven't attempted to use it with this though. Good idea... why didn't I think of that?
Kim
