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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 19 Mar 2007 (Monday) 23:13
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Color Shift Problem

 
Glenn ­ Anderson
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Mar 19, 2007 23:13 |  #1

Canon 20D, Tamron 28-75, f8, 250sec - two AB800's with brollybox.
These images were taken using the same camera and light settings. Can someone tell me why I'm getting the color shift when I zoom out for a full figure shot. This doesn't seem to happen with every shot.


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Lotto
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Mar 20, 2007 04:01 |  #2

Are you using auto white balance?


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René ­ Damkot
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Mar 20, 2007 04:40 |  #3

My guess is AWB as well...


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SkipD
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Mar 20, 2007 06:55 |  #4

Glenn, I discovered early on that AWB is wrong more than it is right with my 20D. Thus, I never under any circumstances use AWB. I always pick the most appropriate white balance setting in the camera.

I also shoot in RAW mode (actually RAW plus Large JPB) always so that if corrections are found to be needed, it is easy to make them during the RAW conversion process.

I find that with my 20D and a scene lit with my AlienBees lights, the "daylight" white balance setting in the camera gives me the closest to true white balance with no post-processing.


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Glenn ­ Anderson
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Mar 20, 2007 10:57 |  #5

Thanks Guys - I bet that AWB is the problem. I am always careful to set custom white balance when shooting inside available light - but never thought about the AB's being equivalent to daylight. I does look like a tungsten setting taken outdoors. I should have been using custom white balance for portraits all along. I will also experiment with the daylight setting.

Thanks,

G




  
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milleker
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Mar 20, 2007 12:59 |  #6

When it comes to RAW even setting the wrong white balance is much better than AWB, at least with the wrong white balance you know what it'll take to correct it and you can run that fix on all the files as a batch.. AWB is a one by one process. :(


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René ­ Damkot
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Mar 20, 2007 13:41 |  #7

When you shot RAW you can batch the WB no problem.
It's a 'one by one process' with jpgs though...


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Curtis ­ N
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Mar 20, 2007 13:58 |  #8

milleker wrote in post #2901730 (external link)
When it comes to RAW even setting the wrong white balance is much better than AWB, at least with the wrong white balance you know what it'll take to correct it and you can run that fix on all the files as a batch.. AWB is a one by one process. :(

Yeah, this doesn't make any sense. Once you figure out the correct color temp and tint, you can easily paste the same settings to a batch of RAW files, regardless if they started out the same or not.


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TMR ­ Design
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Mar 20, 2007 14:12 |  #9

SkipD wrote in post #2900253 (external link)
Glenn, I discovered early on that AWB is wrong more than it is right with my 20D. Thus, I never under any circumstances use AWB. I always pick the most appropriate white balance setting in the camera.

I also shoot in RAW mode (actually RAW plus Large JPB) always so that if corrections are found to be needed, it is easy to make them during the RAW conversion process.

I find that with my 20D and a scene lit with my AlienBees lights, the "daylight" white balance setting in the camera gives me the closest to true white balance with no post-processing.


Hi Skip,

Do you find that the daylight setting gives you better results with the Bees than using a 5600 degree K setting? I have gotten excellent results by using the color temperature of the Bees but have never compared it to daylight. I might have to try this and see.


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FlashZebra
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Mar 20, 2007 14:25 |  #10

A custom white balance is the best way to go.

But, just picking the "daylight" or "electronic flash" setting would also be a fast and reasonable approach.

Just avoid automatic white balance that will give you inconsistent results.

Enjoy!


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SkipD
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Mar 20, 2007 15:40 |  #11

TMR Design wrote in post #2902087 (external link)
Hi Skip,

Do you find that the daylight setting gives you better results with the Bees than using a 5600 degree K setting? I have gotten excellent results by using the color temperature of the Bees but have never compared it to daylight. I might have to try this and see.

Every time I set up the lights I have different surroundings. I just use the "daylight" setting to be close. Then, if colors are critical, I usually shoot a reference card or two in a test shot and do the correction in RAW conversion. On occasion I will do a Custom White Balance when shooting tabletop stuff.


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