Not exactly sure what you are saying.
IVIax wrote in post #9489586
I have a question as well... When I print, the prints appear to be darker than what I see on my screen. Colors match up pretty well, just darker. I read your Color Management thread Rene, and it said that the possible user error is my luminance is set too high.
Yes, that's the most likely the reason if the whole image appears dark.
IVIax wrote in post #9489586
So far what I've done
1. Calibrate my monitor using SpiderPro. Gamma 2.2, Whitepoint 6500K, luminance 110cd/m^2
Good.
IVIax wrote in post #9489586
2. Converted my photoshop profile to sRGB (probably not necessarily, but I've posted the pics on the web so I did it for that reason).
I assume you mean that you converted the images to sRGB working space?
IVIax wrote in post #9489586
3. Downloaded the printer profiles from the company I'm using
4. I've tried "soft proofing" by using their printer profiles and the shadows in the prints are much darker than what I see on screen.
Just the shadows?
Do you print at home? If so: This might be worth a read / try:
http://www.getcolormanaged.com/color-management/testprint/
There's also a link in the end of the article there that shows a way to just lighten the shadows (they tend to be a bit too dark in many cases)
IVIax wrote in post #9489586
(not much difference from sRGB though, so I'm guessing *most* of my colors are in gamut)
Not exactly sure what you mean here? You're saying the colors don't change much?
Then indeed, it's likely most colors are in gamut (the Gamut warning will tell you
)
IVIax wrote in post #9489586
I've played around with the settings changing the rendering intent from relative chrominance to perceptual. I've changed simulate black ink from on to off, I've changed simulate paper color.
Relative colorimetric or Perceptual are both okay. Sometimes one works better, sometimes the other.
"Simulate paper color" tries to match the appearance of "ink on paper" on your screen.
Takes a bit of getting used to, but is the most accurate way to softproof IMO.
(simulate black ink is automatically turned on then)
IVIax wrote in post #9489586
When I turn "black point compensation" off, it gets closer, but still not close enough, and from the web-tutorials I've read, I should leave this set to "on".
It should be on.
Then again, if you get a better match...
IVIax wrote in post #9489586
How do I match the darkness of the shadows better? Thanks.
I'd open a duplicate of the image, compare them side by side (softproofing the duplicate) and use an adjustment layer to lighten the shadows prior to printing...
(Basically as described in the video by J.P. Caponigro in my blogpost. (Direct link
))