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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Small Compact Digitals by Canon 
Thread started 27 Mar 2007 (Tuesday) 21:53
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shutter release s3 is

 
superjdf
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Mar 27, 2007 21:53 |  #1

hey hey hey,

You guys ever here of any way of shooting long exposure with the s3, any cable releases that work, some obscure function hidden in the bowls of the tiny bugga?




  
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O_T
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Mar 27, 2007 22:35 |  #2

15 second max........no stock shutter release that I know of.


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JustShootin'
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Mar 27, 2007 22:46 as a reply to  @ O_T's post |  #3

No remote shutter release, but your self timer can be set to two seconds. This works well for those times when you use a slow shutter, and don't want to touch the camera to release the shutter, or during exposure.


Gary
Canon SX40, S100 and a Non Canon dSLR
“Any darn fool can make something complex;
it takes a genius to make something simple.”—Pete Seeger

  
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agaupt
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Mar 27, 2007 22:47 as a reply to  @ O_T's post |  #4

Do you mean the longest shutter speed, or not moving the camera when you press the shutter button on long exposures?

As said before max shutter speed is 15 seconds.

You can use the self timer for slow shutter speeds to keep the camera still when you have it on the tripod.


  
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superjdf
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Mar 28, 2007 08:54 |  #5

No, I am talking long exposures, greater than 15 seconds. Usually you can do that with a shutter release cable, just hold it down for as long as you want or until the batteries run out. Or a setting, like in SLRs their is the bulb setting or T setting. I was just wondering if anybody knew of a way to rig up some kind of Manuel release. Or some setting that allows you to work with longer exposures.




  
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JustShootin'
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Mar 28, 2007 09:16 |  #6

superjdf wrote in post #2943671 (external link)
No, I am talking long exposures, greater than 15 seconds. Usually you can do that with a shutter release cable, just hold it down for as long as you want or until the batteries run out. Or a setting, like in SLRs their is the bulb setting or T setting. I was just wondering if anybody knew of a way to rig up some kind of Manuel release. Or some setting that allows you to work with longer exposures.

I think you have the wrong camera for all this. The S3 is a fine camera when used for what it was intended. But for what you want to do, you seriously need to consider an SLR camera.


Gary
Canon SX40, S100 and a Non Canon dSLR
“Any darn fool can make something complex;
it takes a genius to make something simple.”—Pete Seeger

  
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Thomas ­ S.
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Mar 28, 2007 11:27 as a reply to  @ JustShootin''s post |  #7

You can hold the shutter release down for as long as you want, but the shutter will only be open for as long as is set in the camera (up to 15 sec). This is what you get with digital cameras. There is no bulb setting on any point and shoot camera out there. For that you need an SLR.


...Thomas

Canon 40D w/ EF-S 17-85IS USM | 50 1.4 | 70-200 f4L | 580EX II
Olympus OM1 (1970)
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superjdf
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Mar 29, 2007 19:35 as a reply to  @ Thomas S.'s post |  #8

Again I know what you are all saying. And no you cannot hold down the shutter button on the S3 at all period, you hold it down and it will take the picture and then you can look at the picture for as long as you want as long as your holding the shutter button down.

I guess their is no way. Just thought maybe I am missing something, like a shutter release cable out there. I guess I was right though thanks guys. I am getting a rebel xti here soon anyway so that will take care of my needs.




  
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ba15ck
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Mar 30, 2007 13:45 |  #9

You are right--there is a 15 second maximum with this camera....BUT... you may want to look into image stacking--there are some programs out there using sophisticated algorithms that... well to keep it simple (cause I am not all the well versed in it) set up a tri-pod and lock your camera settings in and take multiple 15 sec exposures--in the stacking program you can create the exact same effect as longer exposures--3x15 sec=45sec. 10x15 sec=2 and a half minutes. I have experimented with this software, but only that--experimented--It works, and it doesn't just darken your pictures--it works--but you gotta take exact exposures--the program I used (can't remember the name) did have some exposure allignment features--but depending on your subject, it is best to take static-exact exposures--unless of course you want a trailing effect.


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hundsmiachn
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Apr 06, 2007 01:55 as a reply to  @ ba15ck's post |  #10

Hi

I' am also looking for a way around the 15s.
@ba15ck: Your numbers aren't correct. If you want to compare exposure times you can't simply multiply the numbers. The right definition is:
1x10min shot is the same exposure as 10^2x1min = 100x1min shots !!
Other example 1x3min shot is the same as 9x1min shots .....
The programs you need to add them is giotto and fitswork....
So you can make 100 pics in a row (automatically) with 15s thus you get one pic with an exp.time of 10x15s is 2,5min.....

regards
miachn




  
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Keoeeit
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Apr 08, 2007 13:14 |  #11
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hundsmiachn wrote in post #2993769 (external link)
Hi

I' am also looking for a way around the 15s.
@ba15ck: Your numbers aren't correct. If you want to compare exposure times you can't simply multiply the numbers. The right definition is:
1x10min shot is the same exposure as 10^2x1min = 100x1min shots !!
Other example 1x3min shot is the same as 9x1min shots .....
The programs you need to add them is giotto and fitswork....
So you can make 100 pics in a row (automatically) with 15s thus you get one pic with an exp.time of 10x15s is 2,5min.....

I'm not sure I follow your reasoning behind this. Why wouldn't you be able to get the same light intensity/contrast out of eight 15-second exposures as you would a single 2-minute exposure? It would only depend on the stacking software/algorithm you are using, no?

While I've yet to play with image stacking, I understand the principle behind it. One further benefit is that any noise gets averaged out.




  
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Thomas ­ S.
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Apr 09, 2007 20:52 as a reply to  @ Keoeeit's post |  #12

Can image stacking be done in PS CS2? Or would it be a plug in?


...Thomas

Canon 40D w/ EF-S 17-85IS USM | 50 1.4 | 70-200 f4L | 580EX II
Olympus OM1 (1970)
Praktica FX3 (1957) w/ Westanar 2.8/50 & Takumar 4/50 (I miss you grandpa)

  
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DanteCaspian
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Apr 12, 2007 00:16 |  #13

Another issue on the constraints of a compacts!




  
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hundsmiachn
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Apr 12, 2007 01:53 as a reply to  @ DanteCaspian's post |  #14

Hi

@Keoeeit: The only difference is the Signal/Noise Ratio and this is the most important fact !!
I'll search for some details....

regards
miachn




  
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shutter release s3 is
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