Canon EF 50mm f/1.2L USM

h4y4sh1 wrote in post #14416658
I just installed reikan focal and tested my lenses. I tried, 24L,50L, 135L, and 300L. It works great, but strangely enough, the only lens it can't reliably calibrate is the 50L. Maybe something to do with the 50L focus shift. I tried the test twice, and it says I needed -10 MA, but when I did that, and tried shooting, it is actually worse than 0 MA.So I'm leaving it at 0 for now. I'm going to try again next time.

I seem to be having that issue as well. It's like if i set mine to +5 things would look good but then trying to shoot again at other distances, it looks all out of wack. Keeping it at 0 seems to be the best choice all around.

Can't expect this lens to be super razor sharp at f1.2 with such thin dof compared to a lens shot at f2.8 or whatnot.

Rai33 wrote in post #14416710
Reikan Focal Pro worked perfectly for auto calibration of all my bodies/lenses including the 50L though you do need to set things up properly to get consistent results. Here are a few tips:

* use a quality tripod and DONT extend the legs (to reduce vibrations - the system is very sensitive to any movements which shows you how accurately it measures)
* use the modelling lamp from a strobe boomed close to directly illuminate the target - I achieved 10 EV this way and I believe the lighting consistency and brightness helped significantly (so much so I was able to use Focal in its most accurate mode ie. to maximise focus check consistency).
* Don't use a CFL as the flicker/cycling will cause inconsitent results

I think this could be the problem. I used fluorescent light to illuminate the target. I'll try to use my modelling light next time

As far as the focus shift and inability to be fairly sharp wide open, I must have been lucky in buying my copy. Here's a few random shots, followed by their 100% crops, respectively. These are all SOOC with zero sharpening applied as well. I think that if I can read the text in the advertisement, that's good in my book. Also, these are with no UV filter. I have ND filters for when needed, as well as a UV for when I may be shooting at the water park or such situation, but 99% of the time, no filters for me.

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IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/lopezbc/7177993​468/

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/lopezbc/7177974​792/

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Mine is very similar...^^^No issues at all, not even any noticeable shift..

randy98mtu wrote in post #14415616
Think my wife would be mad if I just ordered this and her new P&S? What's that about permission and forgiveness? I'm sold. I must have this lens. I don't need it, but I must have it.

Try to get a refurb and save some money! Maybe sell some stuff around the house your don't need anymore. Or sell a lens you don't need and say it evens out the 50L purchase.

h4y4sh1 wrote in post #14416658
I just installed reikan focal and tested my lenses. I tried, 24L,50L, 135L, and 300L. It works great, but strangely enough, the only lens it can't reliably calibrate is the 50L. Maybe something to do with the 50L focus shift. I tried the test twice, and it says I needed -10 MA, but when I did that, and tried shooting, it is actually worse than 0 MA.So I'm leaving it at 0 for now. I'm going to try again next time.

+1 FoCal worked wonders on all my lenses except for the 50L. Gave me -3 one time, +2, +3 the next. My own tests gave me -7 Went out shooting yesterday to test the focus, and 0 seems to be the sharpest by far.

After a week of hand-wringing and uncertainty, I think I've figured out my 50L. This is by far the BEST lens in the entire whole wide world, once you get it dialed in.

This Heron is super jumpy, so I hid on the shore ahead of where he was going to walk, 5D3 on silent shutter mode, and got some nice snaps of him. Would the 70-200 have served me better here? Probably, but I only had the 50L, and had to make due!

f/1.2
1/1250
ISO 100

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Any MA you had to do MJ? Just curious since i'm shooting with a 5D3 as well. I seem to jump between 0 or 5+ MA and i'm just trying to find a nice comfy spot to stick with..

BryantFC wrote in post #14417886
Any MA you had to do MJ? Just curious since i'm shooting with a 5D3 as well. I seem to jump between 0 or 5+ MA and i'm just trying to find a nice comfy spot to stick with..

It's been a exercise in frustration, but eventually I got it narrowed down to between -7 and 0. Basically I split the values and am sticking with -3 unless I notice more front focusing. The mistake I was making was shooting at things from an angle, and thinking that I was missing focus b/c the focal plain was tilted and f/1.2 is razor thin! If you are trying to get dialed in, shoot from as straight on as possible, and have your target sitting on something with texture so you can sort of see the focal plain. I used a Febreeze bottle sitting on a fluffy blanket haha

With the 5D3, the verdict is still out on whether or not the lens is acting weird when using the center point vs. the outer points. I just shot a whole bunch of boring tree shots at different MFA values and center/outer points to see. Luckily I saw the heron and got an actual photo in

EDIT: Oh, and DO NOT TRUST the 5D3's back LCD when making on the go adjustments! DPP is indispensable (show the focus point, zoom in, adjust accordingly).

h4y4sh1 wrote in post #14417199

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/81837242@N00/7​178299584/
IMG_4709s by h4y4sh1, on Flickr

Beautiful model, interesting setting, great expression and feeling, and the lighting is terrific! The white of the dress is well done!

My heron sucks compared to this.

MatthewK wrote in post #14417912
It's been a exercise in frustration, but eventually I got it narrowed down to between -7 and 0. Basically I split the values and am sticking with -3 unless I notice more front focusing. The mistake I was making was shooting at things from an angle, and thinking that I was missing focus b/c the focal plain was tilted and f/1.2 is razor thin! If you are trying to get dialed in, shoot from as straight on as possible, and have your target sitting on something with texture so you can sort of see the focal plain. I used a Febreeze bottle sitting on a fluffy blanket haha

With the 5D3, the verdict is still out on whether or not the lens is acting weird when using the center point vs. the outer points. I just shot a whole bunch of boring tree shots at different MFA values and center/outer points to see. Luckily I saw the heron and got an actual photo in

EDIT: Oh, and DO NOT TRUST the 5D3's back LCD when making on the go adjustments! DPP is indispensable (show the focus point, zoom in, adjust accordingly).

LOL. Seems like that's what i've been doing mostly. If i have it at 0 MA on the 5D3 and center point, it's tack sharp. If i do +4 or +5 MA it's slightly sharper. But if i do any outer points, it's completely off unless it's at 0 MA..

h4y4sh1 wrote in post #14417199

IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com …/81837242@N00/7​178299584/
IMG_4709s by h4y4sh1, on Flickr

Nice Shot, i'm still traveling, and I want to shot more with mine 50L.

Just MFA'd mine using the moire effect. Came up with -4. Didn't notice any strong focus shift, but then I haven't shot any real world exposures yet. Worked fine at 7 feet, 5 feet, but when I got close to MFD, it was off a little. I guess this is to be expected with that thin of a DOF.

Going out with the kids tomorrow, so I'll get the chance to stop pixel peeing and start shooting.

Quick help fellow 50L owners! My eyes obviously suck but can either of you guys let me know which one of these are sharper? One of them is MA..

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