I'd prefer the original too Bunzo. Lots of potential at that location. Go back and try again!
I've been taking the exact same shot every day for the last week at 300mm trying to understand and beat the haze at a 100m distant roof, a 6km distant ferris wheel and 60km distant mountains. The only thing that has helped cut it is a UV filter, very slightly, and a circular polarizer filter, if I'm 90 degrees to the sunlight and spin it until I imagine the haze is reduced, I think.
Haze is due to particles, water, smoke and/or pollutants suspended in the air that block, refract and/or diffuse light proportionate to the amount suspended in the air, and cumulative particles over distance. The closer your subject is the less noticable is the effect of haze, but the diffused light still softens shadows and obliterates detail, since detail is a factor of the sharpness of shadows and shades of colors. The greater the distance, the greater the diffused obliteration of detail. Unless haze burns off, the light is worse from about 10 AM until 3:30 PM since the higher sun just intensifies it, and reduces shadows anyway the higher it gets.
So I find basically there is very little, if anything, to recover behind haze. The details of shadow, light and color never made it through your lens to the sensor. Your photo was made on a cloudy day, first level of diffusion, plus haze in the air, and the spray, double diffusion.
When you take this kind of image into PS, you are chasing ghosts that mostly aren't there, at the same time producing new ghosts that weren't there, probably just revealed noise. You can play with contrast and USM, but that will probably spoil the mood of the original and become obvious in the print.
The point is to put the effort into taking the photo in the first place, and not imagine you're going to make it better in PS.
The other thing I am learning is that the Cyclops camera cannot capture what the stereo-optic, interpolating brained human can, so not to expect that of the camera and certainly not PS.