Printing 8x10's

What am I doing wrong. I shot wedding and uploaded pictures to lab for print and notice the crop on 8x10 is really cutting the picture short.

What do I have to do get get the full frame to print??

Jim,

If you took images straight from the camera, they would print proportionally correctly
at 8x12. If you want to print 8x10 then you probably should crop (and maybe resize)
them to 2400x3200 pixels (or what ever the dpi of the printer is times 8x10 ).

jorj7 wrote in post #3125162
Jim,

If you took images straight from the camera, they would print proportionally correctly
at 8x12. If you want to print 8x10 then you probably should crop (and maybe resize)
them to 2400x3200 pixels (or what ever the dpi of the printer is times 8x10 ).

George, sounds like there is a way to save and print at 8x10?
Can you give me more on how to crop them so when I upload to lab they will print close to full frame at 8x10

If you want your image on an 8x10 you have to set the image size to 6x9 or crop it to 6x9 (at 300dpi) - which will include all your image - and then set the canvass size to 8x10. You will get back an 8x10 print with your full image centered and white borders around the outsize. I find this looks okay. You could also set the image size to 6.667x10 and then the canvass to 8x10 and you get rid of the borders on the long axis. Good luck, Dennis

Prrinting in 8x10

I guess I am really missing something???

I look at other Wedding pictures on this site and others and they are all pretty much framed close. As I did with my shots (See attached).

But when I go to send to lab to print 8x10's they are cropping too much of the image off.

How do you get around this. If I leave a lot more and customer printed some as 4x6 or 5x7 they would have to be cropped to get excess out.

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You should crop the image to the desired crop before sending the image file to the lab.

goforphoto wrote in post #3125937
You should crop the image to the desired crop before sending the image file to the lab.

I have been trying to do that. Can you tell me how to do that in CS2?

All files taken on the dslr's give you the 2x3 ratio. If you want the 8x10's then the lab will take off 1 inch on each side of what you sent at 8x12. So you will get a lot of cropping. The 2x3 ratio also does not work for the 5x7 images. Less than an inch would be cropped off of those from the originals as well. So, the advice about sending the crop you need is true. Just do some PP, crop the pictures and save them with a tag that says 8x10, or 5x7 to make sure they are saved in the cropped that you sent to the lab. If you don't prepare the images, the lab does whatever it wants and sometimes, it just does whatever and you're stuck with some really badly cropped work.

My procedure is the following in PSE 5.0, and I can't imagine it's that much different than CS2.

Bring up your image, Crop it as best you can to make it the ratio you need (2x3, 4x5, 5x7), click on the top bar "Image" and you will see "resize image" or "Image size". Choose that and then decide what resolution you need (I use 600 most of the time), then adjust the height and width to the proper measurement. Read the manual for your CS2 to see how to crop as well. That will really help you the most.

Use the crop tool in CS2. Put your settings at 8x 10 and dpi at 250 or higher (depending on your lab). Ideally, if you know a print will be in a 5x7 format or 8x10 - you'll have to leave room for cropping when you shoot the image. In other words, you need to leave some dead space to get the image to crop the way you want. A way around the 4x6's looking silly - don't offer that size. The smallest size we offer is 8x10 for the purchase of a solo print. If they order a package it might have 5x7's since grandparents tend to ask for that size. No one has whined about us not offering the 4x6 size. We push large prints, so that could be why. But a little planning goes a long way. And if you crop all your own stuff - which is REALLY easy - you can control it to your liking and not worry about the printer.

SuzyView wrote in post #3125958
All files taken on the dslr's give you the 2x3 ratio. If you want the 8x10's then the lab will take off 1 inch on each side of what you sent at 8x12. So you will get a lot of cropping. The 2x3 ratio also does not work for the 5x7 images. Less than an inch would be cropped off of those from the originals as well. So, the advice about sending the crop you need is true. Just do some PP, crop the pictures and save them with a tag that says 8x10, or 5x7 to make sure they are saved in the cropped that you sent to the lab. If you don't prepare the images, the lab does whatever it wants and sometimes, it just does whatever and you're stuck with some really badly cropped work.

Is there a way to do this and still get the full frame of what was taken?

And how do you avoid cropping unwanted subject or if other sizes are printed leaving too much on the edges

I know 8x12 are full frame, but what does anyone do with a 8x12. Most of the album pages are 8x10, and I have never seen an 8x12 frame

*Mike* wrote in post #3125994
Use the crop tool in CS2. Put your settings at 8x 10 and dpi at 250 or higher (depending on your lab). Ideally, if you know a print will be in a 5x7 format or 8x10 - you'll have to leave room for cropping when you shoot the image. In other words, you need to leave some dead space to get the image to crop the way you want. A way around the 4x6's looking silly - don't offer that size. The smallest size we offer is 8x10 for the purchase of a solo print. If they order a package it might have 5x7's since grandparents tend to ask for that size. No one has whined about us not offering the 4x6 size. We push large prints, so that could be why. But a little planning goes a long way. And if you crop all your own stuff - which is REALLY easy - you can control it to your liking and not worry about the printer.

I don't mean to be a pest, but trying to get the best out of them.
When you use the crop tool and set at 8x10 then do you select the entire image with the crop tool?

canon shooter wrote in post #3126035
I know 8x12 are full frame, but what does anyone do with a 8x12. Most of the album pages are 8x10, and I have never seen an 8x12 frame

I have purchased pre-made frames that are 8x12, but really, if you can cut mats, you can cut to whatever you need for the best image presentation. Most standard mats are for 8x10, 11x14, etc. So, you have to special order or cut the mats and order the frames to support the 8x12 images. I find it easier to do exactly what is suggested above and zoom out a little and allow the sides to have extra and then crop to 8x10. That way you don't have to buy expensive frames and mats. Once in a while I'll go to a frame store and buy the metal or wood frames that you buy the length separate from the width and use those for my 8x12's without mats. I've only had to do that twice.

SuzyView wrote in post #3125958
All files taken on the dslr's give you the 2x3 ratio. If you want the 8x10's then the lab will take off 1 inch on each side of what you sent at 8x12. So you will get a lot of cropping. The 2x3 ratio also does not work for the 5x7 images. Less than an inch would be cropped off of those from the originals as well. So, the advice about sending the crop you need is true. Just do some PP, crop the pictures and save them with a tag that says 8x10, or 5x7 to make sure they are saved in the cropped that you sent to the lab. If you don't prepare the images, the lab does whatever it wants and sometimes, it just does whatever and you're stuck with some really badly cropped work.

IS this ratio the same for Digital P&S and 35MM film