Fill flash for catch lights in birds??

Being new to bird photography, I'm wondering how many of you routinely use flash for fill or to reduce shadows. Getting started I get lots of shots like these, where the birds are often in shadows and dont get any catch light in the eyes. I have never even thought of using a flash but in examining the shots so far it would seem like a flash is a good idea.

I have seen some good results with the Better Beamer, but have never tried it myself...

Let me begin with a couple of caveats. First, I am also a relatively new bird photographer. Second, I have experienced the same problems you describe and have looked for solutions. And third, my experience with a flash is even less. That said, let me say a bit about my experience thus far.

Can fill flash help? Certainly, that's why I went out recently and bought a flash and a Better Beamer. If you are paying the bucks for a flash, the Beamer is relative pocket change at around $40 from a B&H or similar camera store. The main purpose of the Beamer is to extend the range of the light from the flash. This assumes that you never quite get as close to the bird as you would like.

There is a trade-off, however. With the flash with or without the Better Beamer, you will run the very real risk of replacing the desired catchlight in the bird's eye with the avian version of "red eye" - and that is white eye. In order to minimize the white eye (which is really very unattractive), you will probably need a flash bracket to get the flash away from the camera per se. I do not have a bracket but will probably end up getting one because I tire of white eye. Otherwise, the fill flash does bring out more of the highlights in the bird when it is shaded.

Which brings me to my next point. Folks here on POTN have given me a lot of constructive criticism regarding harsh light, backlight, etc. etc. I have found that the biggest change in the number of "keeper" images with good light and that twinkle in the eye have come not from the use of a flash but from getting myself in the right position to take advantage of the ambient light. (If you can find them on page 3 or 4 or 5 by now I guess, check out my images of the Baltimore Oriole and (Eastern) Willet both of which were shot after my moving around to take advantage of the exisiting sunlight). Obviously there will be times when you just can't get into ideal position and you have to deal with the light you are dealt (backlighting, etc.). Then fill flash may be necessary.

On the other hand you can also encounter situations like I have recently where due to all the leaves and flowers on some of our trees right now, the bird may be shaded by all that growth even with perfect frontlighting. Then you have to decide whether to fill or not. Honestly, sometimes I like the natural shadowing even though it generally leads to some again, constructive criticism. Different strokes for different folks. But I recognize that they are usually right technically.

I will end as I started. I am far from an expert on this. I am just sharing some of my experiences and observations. So don't take this as gospel.

P.S. In an image like the second where the bird is cast in partial sun, catchlight in the eye may be as simple as the bird turning its head slightly.

Hi Ed,

Thanks for taking the time to post such a helpful response. It is much appreciated and very helpful. I have a 580EX flash & off shoe cord, however it looks like a bracket & Better Beamer will need to go on the 'to-buy' list.

I'm starting to appreciate the near impossibility of getting a bird to be in an unobstructed position, with great ambient light, and close enough, for more a split second to get a good shot. My admiration of the great bird photographers on this thread continues to grow.

In the mean time I'll keep trying and also experiment with the flash as you've suggested Ed. Thanks again.

PS. I drive through the Lehigh Tunnel a number of times each year. You really live in a pretty area that I'm sure provides great material for photography.

I use a 580 flash and beamer for fill whenever harsh shadows may be cast. Here is a example from yesterday. Actually inside 20 feet or so you may want to remove the front lens from the BB and just use bare flash. I never have bird white eye using bracket. See my setup on my site in the about me article.


With BB at -1 2/3. Notice twig below birds right wing lit, top left bg leaves, shadow on branches minimized. Notice it left shadow for depth but just minimized them. Brought out more wing detail in shadoe areas on bird. Look at branch right under where bird is sitting.

Thanks for the information Allen and the example which is most helpful. I can clearly see that the flash really helps in reducing the harshness of the shadows, especially evidenced by the leaf shadow on the bird's tail. Thanks again.

Usually on the MK II N I fire a short burst so I get a flash and non flash image all in one and can choose which I like best. The beamer also helps with recycle times on the flash.