Vivitar 283 flash and 20D compatibility

I've got a Vivitar 283 flash left over from my film days and was wondering if I could use it with my 20D without any problems. I don't wanna fry any circuitry. Can anybody confirm?
thanks.

The 20D is OK with trigger voltages of up to 250V. The earlier 283s were reported to go up to 600V; later ones were about 9-10 V. Check here for test results and directions for testing your own strobe.

spork wrote in post #3189516
I've got a Vivitar 283 flash left over from my film days and was wondering if I could use it with my 20D without any problems. I don't wanna fry any circuitry. Can anybody confirm?
thanks.

Regardless of trigger voltage issues you should be aware that you'll have no auto-exposure options available. Your camera can not communicate with the flash to alter exposure.

But the Vivitar 283 has auto-thyristor flash so he still does have (a different) auto-flash option.

It's been said that 283s are too strong for the Canon digital SLR circuitry. The only Vivitar flash deemed "safe" for Canon DSLRs are the 285HV..I repeat--HV (High Voltage) flashes.

There was a discussion about the Vivitar 285HV on the Strobist.com site.. Here's the link:

http://strobist.blogsp​ot.com …02/return-of-classic.html

I use the 285HV with my 1D. It does a great job in the auto settings. You have four settings available, plus manual (full) and variable power settings. I haven't missed many shots with this flash. It can be had for less than $100 USD. The difference between the 285HV and the dedicated Canon flashes such as the 580EX is not very much, except that you save around $400 which could be applied toward a nice L lens.

Given the highly varied trigger voltage reports of that particular model, I wouldn't put it on a modern camera without measuring it first to be sure it's under 250v.

Keep in mind a new 285hv goes for about $90 and a Sunpak 383 sells for around $80 (just to mention two safe alternatives). If you damage your camera, the repairs will likely cost more than that. Avoid unnecessary risks.

Befor vivitar removed their flash info from their website they had a FAQ section that stated 283's made in japan and koria have a very high trigger voltage and should not be used on digital cameras, 283's mad in china have a lower voltage and are safe on digital cameras. So check to see where ita made.

I use a 283 with my 20d all the time. I use a Wein Safe-Sync and usually mount my flash on a flash bracket and use the pc cord connection on the Safe-Sync to plug into. If you mount the flash directly onto the Safe-Sync is does not tighten down very well and is quite loose but it will work. I've had no problems with this setup and have taken many flash photos.

I had a 283 for a long time and it was a great flash, but I don't think I'd risk using it on my 20D. Better safe than sorry. If you really feel the need to use it, do as Curtis and Jon suggested and test the synch voltage first.

Mark

F1_Fan wrote in post #3189990
Regardless of trigger voltage issues you should be aware that you'll have no auto-exposure options available. Your camera can not communicate with the flash to alter exposure.

The 283 does have a very nice auto mode. Just not ETTL.

In fact it has four different color coded (yellow, red, blue and purple) auto modes. You only have to coordinate the aperture setting indicated for the color coded mode on the flash on the cameras lens, and stay within the auto modes indicated range (and of course the sync speed must be at or below the maximum for the attached camera).

Just remember, if you just measure the sync Voltage and if it is less than 250 Volts, it is fine.

Do not go with what it might be, what a chart indicates another one is, measure yours and you will have a definitive measure.

I have personally measured the sync Voltage on several 283 flash units. It is easy. Make this measurement and stop the guesswork.

Enjoy! Lon

How exactly do you measure the sync voltage?

I have two 285s, one of them is HV, the other is not. Both are made in Japan. Not sure when they are built, but the manual that came with one of them was printed 1985.

I did try to measure the voltage between the pin and the contacts on the top side of the shoe (the only other metal part I could see) and they both show around 6V (my previous research led me to believe that all 283's are unsafe). With all the talk about HV vs not and how the "old ones made in Japan" are not safe, I'm starting to question if this is in fact the right way to measure it?

That said I use one of them on my 20D all the time with no ill effects.
Btw - the 20D is one of the best in that regard - up to 250V, don't even think about doing the same with some of the D rebels...

Incidentally - does anybody know if the sensor can (and should?) be cleaned (and how)?

Kilikanzer wrote in post #3192861
Incidentally - does anybody know if the sensor can (and should?) be cleaned (and how)?

Do you mean the camera sensor?

Yes, it can. How? There are several ways.

1. Put the camera in Sensor Clean Mode (see your manual). Open the shutter, use a Giotto Rocket Blower and blow off the sensor (never used canned air). Turn the camera off.

2. Use the Copperhill Method of Wet Cleaning (Google Copperhill or do a forum search for a complete description).

3. Use the Artic Butterfly or Visible Brush method of cleaning.

4. Send it to Canon for cleaning.


Mark

Kilikanzer wrote in post #3192861
Incidentally - does anybody know if the sensor can (and should?) be cleaned (and how)?

Mark_Cohran wrote in post #3195256
Do you mean the camera sensor?

I think he means the Auto-Thyristor sensor. I use a cotton swab in mine (without anything on it) to wipe it out, but I don't think it needs cleaned per se. I haven't had any exposure issues before or after cleaning with even an old Kmart flash.

Kilikanzer wrote in post #3192861
How exactly do you measure the sync voltage?

I have two 285s, one of them is HV, the other is not. Both are made in Japan. Not sure when they are built, but the manual that came with one of them was printed 1985.

I did try to measure the voltage between the pin and the contacts on the top side of the shoe (the only other metal part I could see) and they both show around 6V (my previous research led me to believe that all 283's are unsafe). With all the talk about HV vs not and how the "old ones made in Japan" are not safe, I'm starting to question if this is in fact the right way to measure it?

That said I use one of them on my 20D all the time with no ill effects.
Btw - the 20D is one of the best in that regard - up to 250V, don't even think about doing the same with some of the D rebels...

Incidentally - does anybody know if the sensor can (and should?) be cleaned (and how)?

To measure the sync Voltage (this assumes you know how to use a Voltmeter).

• Remove the flash from the camera.
  
• Turn on the flash.
  
• Put the red positive lead probe on the center terminal on the bottom of the flash foot.
  
• Put the negative lead probe on one of the contacts on the edge of the flash foot (you may need to throw lever that grasps the cameras foot to see these side terminals.)

Dont want to rehash anything. However, I am in search of an answer. I have 2 283's I purchased at an estate sale for $3.00 with the vivitar battery packs. I have no intentions of useing them on my camera. The question is how can I set them up as slaves. Can this even be done? Thanks for your help.