1DMKII, Share your settings...

Anyone have time to give a run down on the settings they are using?
Pekka?? Cyber?? Belendemo?? Anyone??

Updated with the settings my camera still has on the today, May 2013.


Reading from Camera, I'll have to go back and see what ll these mean:

Custom Functions: (if it's not listed, it is at 0 Zero)

02-1 ( Shutter Release Without Card NO)
04-1 ( Shutter half press = AE lock, * Button = AF ON )
05-1 ( Puts AV button on the shutter finger dial when in manual. So if you shoot a lot of AV, it does not get reversed)
08-1 ( LCD Display ISO/Remaining shots )
13-1 ( Limits choice of single AF points to 11 / Links spot metering to the Active AF point )
17-1 ( Expand Active AF point to surrounding 7. I go back and forth on this from 13, 7 to "0" single AF point. Many don't agree with me on this, but for birding keeping a single AF point on a fast flying bird is near impossible. Using expansion lets the 1D's fantastic AF system keep your bird in focus when you can't. Learn to use this feature, don't ignore it! This one setting was the one I adjusted the most in CF,. always wished it was as easy to change as aperture and AF point. With the 5D3 it is!)

18-2 (Switch to Registered AF point when pressing [X] (WB thumb button) Here is another huge one. Set registered AF point as ALL 45! (often called "ring of fire") When you need a single af point, you can select it easily, as when you need a single AF point, you usually aren't in a rush. I start every shoot with single center AF point active, selected manually, usually with expansion on. when I need to select another point, I do, but when the sh!t hits the fan, and you need all 45 for a hail Mary shot, just move your thumb from * to [X] and bam you have instant one button access to Ring Of Fire for all your hail Mary needs.

19-4 ( Use AF stop button on Super telephotos so equipped to instead swap between AI servo and One Shot. Not important, just a personal preference.)

20-1 ( AI Servo tracking sensitivity set to 1 = slow. This is another that you may have to change for different applications. Set to slow is to prevent the AI-servo from jumping form near to far focus too quickly, when you lose your subject. This is specifically useful for BIF against a busy back ground. I know it sounds counter-intuitive, but you don't want the camera jumping to the back ground when you lose the bird for a fraction of a second.

Personal Functions:

Pfn 19-ON! (this tells the camera NOT to "hunt" when AF is lost. For BIF, this means that instead of letting the lens go on a long slow hunt when you lose AF lock, just lift thumb off of * and press again to regain AF lock,. your lens will be in the right neighborhood instead of way off at infinity or MFD)

pfn 17-OFF AF point auto select turned off

pfn 18 cfn 11-2: Auto AF point sel.

pfn 19-ON set continuous shooting speed. l3 h6

pfn 25- ON default settings when cleared
ex AV Partial Metering RAW
AF AI-servo Center F point Low speed auto drive
WB AWB
Parameter set 1
Color matrix Standard

FYI
Sports Illustrated's Recomended sttings

I'm currently using all the shooting modes and metering modes, having a good old time. Cf.4-1 + Cfn. 18-2 is sweet!
Scott

What are ya'll setting these to?

My current settings are in parenthesis

Color Space (Adobe RGB)
Saturation (0)
Sharpness (5)
Contrast (0)

I tried 3 on sharpness, but was not happy with it, out of the camera.
I am planning on boosting Saturation up to 1 and Contrast up to 1 and decreasing sharpness to 3, for my next test session.

Here is a link to some sample shots.....
http://www.sportsshoot​er.com/dmtunstall/1dmk​ii/
800ISO, 70-200 f2.8IS 1.4xTC, 1/1000 @ f4

Color space: Adobe RGB
Parameters: Standard
I prefer to adjust all the other parameters in PS CS. I feel there is much more control over the final image that way.
Scott

Fine if you are only shooting one image.
I need to get a sharp, clean, well balanced color shots right out of the box.
Too many images and too little time to tweak each one.

Don't tell me I have to trade this thing in for a 1D MK I to get a sharp image out of the can.

You might want to use downsampled JPGs (M1 or M2)

Daniel:

To get the image to look "sharper" perhaps you might try either of the medium JPG images sizes. The downsampling will restore some apparent local contrast.

No, I don't have a MkII (yet) but it seems to me that the look of the MKII is distinctly (and as stated by Canon) close to that of the 10D but with a few more pixels (and less noise.) Great for many general photography purposes like portraiture, but perhaps not the best for the photojournalist.

Anyway, try the smaller JPG sizes (with various parameters chosen.)

Dan9

I shoot RAW (only RAW, convert with one beta software).

Camera settings include
- assign focus to *
- assign reset to center point focus point to leftmost thumb button.
- ISO expansion off
- no focus area expansion
- shooting not possible without card
- AI servo tracking to fast.

Custom functions:

01-1 02-1 04-1 05-1 06-0 07-2 08-1
09-0 10-0 11-0 12-0 13-0 14-0 15-0
16-0 17-0 18-1 19-0 20-4 21-0 00-1

Haven't checked personal functions yet.

Settings

Hi all,

Just returned from shooting a waterski event in Nor Cal and was dismayed to say the least when viewing the first images out of the 1D Mk11. They were very underexposed and the focus was way off

I changed the settings to overexpose by between 1/3 and 2/3rds and that helped the exposure tremendously. However, I am still not overjoyed at the sharpness of the photos and will need to work it out. I usually shoot with center focus but on the 1D Mk11 I cannot seem to find a way to get the cous points to group in the center...any thoughts? I tried the single focus point but was not happy.

The images can be seen on my site at www.memoriesink.net Click on the event photographs link and then Chico. Let me know if you have any suggestions

Cheers

the link doesn't work

*EDIT*
link working now

I'm havig underexposure problems as well.. but the AF is the best I've used (including the 1D)

My feeling is I am doing something wrong with the af point expansion and af point meter linking... because when it underexposes.. it is wayyyy under.. but when it is "correct" is the best I've seen!

Also.. the files right out of camera when exposed well are MUCH sharper and richer in contrast and color than anything I have seen from my 10D in a year of use... On the rare occasions I have shot in jpeg, I shoot largest size at quality setting 10. (i mean I'm allready tossing out info by going jpeg.. why compress it down to "8" as well?) Again I've shot about 90% raw though.

GenEOS try color matrix 3 and boost contrast and sharpness etc.

//otherwise my 1D is till for sale... or trade for a MkII

For what it's worth, increasing contrast in the camera reduces the dynamic range available. For that reason, two camps seem to have risen, those favoring increasing contrast +1 and those favoring leaving it at 0 and adjusting in PS. I've been getting good results leaving it standard and using curves to increase contrast.
CDS, I agree on using JPEG at 10 when not shooting raw.
Scott

I agree re: leaving it to PS for curves/levels adjust as well.. However the sugestion to bump up thse parameters in Camera was for users who want zero post processing.

I hope that the problem isn't with your new camera. On the other hand, we all live & learn - 2 things for skiphoto:

1. I'll bet that, next time, you'll check out a new cam 70 different ways before you take it somewhere to shoot, right?
2. Remember that the meter thinks it's pointing at an 18% grey subject!
Point it at white = underexposed pics.
Point it at black = overexposed pics.

Here's a dumb question. If you set the parameters off from O's, this only effects the jpeg.....So if you shoot RAW + Large jpeg, will the changes in settings effect the jpeg or not, because you are shooting RAW.

I have been shooting RAW + L, I like the fact you don't have to extract the jpeg.