Rebel-ious metering

Due to serious budget issues, I purchased the Digital Rebel instead of the D10. (I sure wish I had that extra $500) . I'm fighting with the exposure and am so frustrated that unlike some of the lower line cameras such as the G3, the rebel does not seem to allow one to select spot metering, matrix or any other options. It seems to rely on center weighted metering.

Has anyone figured out a successful way to use this thing without buying a seperate handheld meter? Does zooming in on different areas function like a spot meter? Any thoughts or suggestions (apart from buying another camera) would be greatly appreciated!

Malok

Malok wrote:
Due to serious budget issues, I purchased the Digital Rebel instead of the D10. (I sure wish I had that extra $500) . I'm fighting with the exposure and am so frustrated that unlike some of the lower line cameras such as the G3, the rebel does not seem to allow one to select spot metering, matrix or any other options. It seems to rely on center weighted metering.

Has anyone figured out a successful way to use this thing without buying a seperate handheld meter? Does zooming in on different areas function like a spot meter? Any thoughts or suggestions (apart from buying another camera) would be greatly appreciated!

Malok

You are asking about the 10D versus the Digital Rebel? The Digital Rebel has metering modes as explained on page 84 of the manual.

---Bob Gross---

Yes. You zoom in to fill the viewfinder, set the exposure manually based on that reading, zoom out and recompose. (you can also use a program mode and exposure lock if the 300D has it).
Scott

You zoom in to fill the viewfinder with something about 18% gray because the meter thinks thats what it's looking at.
Read this:
http://www.rogercavana​gh.com/helpinfo/29_gra​ycard.htm

There are other posts on grey card, too.

PhotosGuy wrote:
You zoom in to fill the viewfinder with something about 18% gray because the meter thinks thats what it's looking at.
Read this:
http://www.rogercavana​gh.com/helpinfo/29_gra​ycard.htm

There are other posts on grey card, too.

Grey cards are only practical when the lighting is even and your near the subject. Often you won't have anything in the viewfinder that is 18% grey. You can't use a grey card when the subject is 100 yds away and the lighting isn't even. That's where a modified zone system comes in to play. You zoom in on a predominant tone in the picture and take a reading. Then you adjust your exposure based on that tone's difference from 18% grey. Each zone represents one F stop.
You can use 5 zones:
(White)4.5% -9%(Light Grey)- 18% Grey - 36%(Dark Grey) - 72%(Black)If your focused on a medium tone, no correction. If your on white, open up 1-2 stops, if your on black or dark brown, close down 1-2 stops.
I never take a grey card in the field.
For more on this technique, I suggest: The Confused Photographers Guide to The Zone System by Farzaad.
Regards,
Scott

The "Pro" reviews of the Rebel (Luminous Landscape, Digital Outback) suggest using the histogram. That's the best indicator of correct exposure, and dynamic range, as well.

Leigh

He said "I'm fighting with the exposure..." & needs a simple place to start. That's all a grey card is good for... a place to start & learn more about proper metering & adjustments.

I think that in average light situations (if the main subject is not too bright/dark comparing to the rest) auto and semi-auto modes work fine.

For more complicated situations sometimes I switch to M, select aperture, point to the bright parts, press * (camera switches to partial metering) and adjust shutter speed so that the exposure level mark shows +1 (or more, but less than +2).

But usually, I take pictures in Av, check histograms, adjust exposure compensation.

It can be tricky to get the right exposure with Digital Rebel, but I've heard same things about 10D.

Malok wrote:
Due to serious budget issues, I purchased the Digital Rebel instead of the D10. (I sure wish I had that extra $500) . I'm fighting with the exposure and am so frustrated

Hey, quit kicking yourself. That extra $500 wouldnt solve your problems anyway. Both my 10D and previous D30 both have exposure trouble. Depending on lighting conditions I do have to compensate if I want the right exposure. At least it is consistent , just not right (based on the histogram)

As Ive written before: You would think that a camera filled with so much technology could do exposure better than a film camera!

-Pete

Set a camera down & nothing will happen.

plus the photographers brain is what makes good pics!

Thanks everyone for all your suggestions. I do rely on the histogram but sometimes it means retaking the photo a couple of times to get it just right. I often wish that I could just tell the camera where to spot meter the image. I've been zooming in to get my readings lately and that has helped some, but it is a bit of a pain. I'll deal with it though.

As for grey cards, they can be helpful as well. I am presently looking into the Chromazones system and trying to become a better judge of tonality, but this wasn't my primary problem.

Thanks for the suggestion on the partial metering. I hadn't realized that using the * would allow me to switch to this setting. I thought the * button locked the exposure. I'll have to play around with this.

Many thanks for everyone's help!

Malok[/URL]

That 's a very interesting point. It made me go back to the 10 D Manual and check. If your in Evaluative Metering, * causes the camera to lock exposure on the active AF point. In partial and Center Weighted Metering, exposure is locked on the Center AF point.
Thanks for peaking my curiosity,
Scott