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Thread started 17 May 2004 (Monday) 19:39
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robertwgross
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May 21, 2004 09:34 |  #16

psk4363 wrote:
Why not invest in a good quality light meter? Then you can take an incident light reading from the position of your subjects. Transfer the readings for Tv and Av to the camera in manual mode and fire away.

It takes too long to transfer information from the light meter to the camera.

During an outdoor wedding like Dan showed, things are popping quickly. There are subjects moving toward the camera, away from the camera, in and out of shadows, ...

About the last thing that I want is one more piece of external gear to slow down the operation. As it is, one camera can "talk to" one flash unit and get something pretty close.

---Bob Gross---




  
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psk4363
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May 21, 2004 09:58 |  #17

Hi Bob,

Too long to transfer readings to the camera? This is the most important day of the bride's life and her images should be as perfect as possible at the taking stage.

I can agree with you that if you pop on a dedicated flashgun then that combination will do very well - especially for the informal type of shot where there's a lot of movement as you rightly point out. However,for the more formal type of shot, I would always recommend taking your time and getting the exposure spot on rather than relying on post-taking adjustments.

Barry


A little G9 :D

  
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AzzKicker
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May 21, 2004 10:32 |  #18

Weddings are a hard gig to shoot. I'm not pro and I dont do photography for a living, only a hobby. My cousin got married and it was pretty fast, no time to find pro photog etc. So I told him I'd do it for him with the understanding I'm no pro LOL.. he said sure. He just wanted to pics to have to remember the day. So I said OK. I had my Rebel, 420ex flash and a few lenses. I actually took a lot of GOOD PICS, but a lot came out dark due to E-TTL not doing its job right. I wish I had my FEC hack that time. The best PICS came out when using BOUNCE flash. Unfortunatly most of wedding pics were taken with a HIGH roof :(.


The best thing is just CHECK that HISTOGRAM. If you can wing a stationary area to take photo's rig it so you can plug a LAPTOP to camera and you can see right away how pics came out instead of looking at small lcd on camera.


Ruben D. Zamora
Canon 6D Mark II, Canon 20-35L,Genesis 200 Strobe

  
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NILOLIGIST
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May 21, 2004 11:48 |  #19

Thank you all, keep the suggestions coming. I will think about getting a light meter too.

NiL,


Canon 1D Mark II, 24-70 f/2.8L, 17-40 f/4L, 70-200 f/2.8L. 580EX, 4 - Alien Bees, Gitzo Tripod, Bogen Monopod.

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