In an outdoor shot w/ the sky, is it better to be slightly over or underexposed?

These are from the set of my first pictures, and I had a situation where it was partly cloudy, but the sun was behind the clouds. That's why the colors are a bit dull. At any rate, which of these two would be preferrable (other then the obvious option of having a good exposure ):

This picture, the sky is overexposed (and the front is still a tad underexposed for me, but the sun wasn't out so it was hard to get the colors to shine through):
http://farm1.static.fl​ickr.com …18977343_54d158​d557_o.jpg

Here, we have a much better exposed sky, but the foreground is even more underexposed:
http://farm1.static.fl​ickr.com …18977345_9f631f​c871_o.jpg

Which would you prefer, or think would be preferrable?

None of these have been PP'd, because I wanted some criticism on my actual shots. Also, I used a 350d w/ the kit lens (no tripod yet!). If you have some time, please drop by my C&C thread in the C&C forum, because I'm looking for as much criticism/suggestions as I can get on my shots, composition, etc so I can improve as a photographer
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=326434

P.S. Here's the exposure I got with the sun out, what do you think?
http://farm1.static.fl​ickr.com …18945640_71c50a​164b_o.jpg

I don't see massive differences between the shots. The value of the building is not too much different than the value of the sky. I would shoot this RAW with about +2/3 EC and play around with it after to see what I like best.

I am an hobbiest only so forgive me if I am wrong but if the sky is overexposed should the ec adjustment be -2/3 instead?
Rgds
pat

I shoot RAW and meter for the sky so it's just barely not blown out. Even a few blinkies is ok with me. Doing so lets me bring the highlights (sky) back down with more effectiveness than trying to raise the shadows too far.

Souwalker wrote in post #3289323
I am an hobbiest only so forgive me if I am wrong but if the sky is overexposed should the ec adjustment be -2/3 instead?
Rgds
pat

If you do that the darker objects in the foreground will have no detail and if you try to resurrect them, they will be full of noise. The idea is to brighten as much as you can without getting blowouts in the sky.

I prefer the foreground from #1 and the sky from #2.

I know you're concentrating on learning composition and exposure, but if and when you're ready to venture into PP then there is a way to have your cake and eat it:
1. Shoot RAW and expose to the right (i.e. as bright as possible but with little or no highlight clipping).
2. Make two RAW conversions, one with the foreground as you like it and one with the sky as you like it.
3. Layer the two images in Photoshop and blend the exposures or use the eraser tool.

There's a good example of the technique in this thread.

CaseLogic,
Your exposure you got with the sun out is the best to my eyes, could use a smaller aperture for a bit more DOF (f/11 or smaller would be better then f/7.1) and some USM because of resizing.

The 'debate' for yourself when shooting is always...
a. is the detail in the shadows more important to preserve, or
b. is the detail in the highlights more important to preserve?

If the answer is 'Both', then you need to do something to reduce the dynamic range, like using a graduated neutral density filter.

While RAW convertors can help with boosting shadows and toning back highlights, you have to CAPTURE the detail. And if shadow detail is too dark, some of the detail is lost and cannot be recovered even with RAW convertor that has 'fill' adjustment. Similarly if highlight detail is too bright, some of the detail is lost and cannot be recovered even with RAW convertor highlight adjustment.

My experience sees that the sky (when not overcast) can take 1 stop over. Think nice blue sky with puffy clouds. This works if you have a shaded subject in the shot.

Mostly I meter for sky then go 1/2 stop hot if I need to balance some foreground. Every picture is different though. Your last shot there could have pushed the sky a bit. This is really where ACR 4.0 shines.

Thanks for the tips guys.