-= 1D MkIII Owners discuss =- and Post Your Pics

mmk... so I suddenly have an urge to shoot sports main factors being my Daughter started soccer and This 1D3's AF system is stellar..... any way IM trying to figure this whole thing out trying to expose for the subject and also have a properly exposed BG... im a portrait shooter so panning moving in and out of shadows etc is new to me...any tips you guys have would be nice i know this isnt the Sports forum but i figure since you all are using the same body I am you can be some help

SUB1IM388 wrote in post #13201211
mmk... so I suddenly have an urge to shoot sports main factors being my Daughter started soccer and This 1D3's AF system is stellar..... any way IM trying to figure this whole thing out trying to expose for the subject and also have a properly exposed BG... im a portrait shooter so panning moving in and out of shadows etc is new to me...any tips you guys have would be nice i know this isnt the Sports forum but i figure since you all are using the same body I am you can be some help

Well, there's not an "easy" answer, since, assuming you will be shooting in Av or Tv to "keep up" with the change from sun into shade -- getting a "good" exposure for the players will likely lead to any background that is well-lit as well as any sky to be overexposed.

Your first goal at any rate is to position yourself with the sun as much to your back as possible. Then, hopefully you can minimize the shade problem!

This really isn't specific at all to the 1D3, just common-sense photography. The 1D3 should be able to handle things fine as far as the AF performance. The headaches will begin in the "digital darkroom" trying to process the shaded shots.

Shoot in Raw to give yourself as much latitude as possible! And, if the light gets low, don't be afraid to shoot at ISO 1600 to keep a good fast shutter speed.

I personally prefer using an aperture of f/5.6 for sports-type shooting -- wide enough to give a good shutter speed in decent light but narrow enough to keep at least a main subject to be solidly sharp.

tonylong wrote in post #13201393
Well, there's not an "easy" answer, since, assuming you will be shooting in Av or Tv to "keep up" with the change from sun into shade -- getting a "good" exposure for the players will likely lead to any background that is well-lit as well as any sky to be overexposed.

Your first goal at any rate is to position yourself with the sun as much to your back as possible. Then, hopefully you can minimize the shade problem!

This really isn't specific at all to the 1D3, just common-sense photography. The 1D3 should be able to handle things fine as far as the AF performance. The headaches will begin in the "digital darkroom" trying to process the shaded shots.

Shoot in Raw to give yourself as much latitude as possible! And, if the light gets low, don't be afraid to shoot at ISO 1600 to keep a good fast shutter speed.

I personally prefer using an aperture of f/5.6 for sports-type shooting -- wide enough to give a good shutter speed in decent light but narrow enough to keep at least a main subject to be solidly sharp.

Well i was shooting in manual mode kept SS above 500 (not that i needed to my 4yr old isnt crazy fast) Here are some example's from this weekend

these were shot with 1D3 and 70-200 f2.8 I know framing is a big thing that I have to work on, these were shot raw so I had some give in post..... so you recommend shooting in AV or TV? with that what metering mode would you recommend... I always tend to use spot. before we go into crazy detail and possibly throw this tread off course which i dont want to do ill take this down the the sports section...enjoy my shots not my best but learning sports photography

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Well, I prefer to do like you did -- spot metering and Manual exposure -- if I can stay in a good position relative to the sun, one setting can pretty much get the shots I want, although yeah, sometimes you have to adapt to changing light.

So, in the shots you posted, that last one in the shade was challenging, sure, and I'd have probably made the same move you did, to "expose for the foreground/subjects" -- otherwise, well, things in pp would have been not so pleasant. Even though you were able to get good exposures for the blue sky in your first two shots, and I like to be able to get that when the sun is in a good spot, the fact remains that you were there to shoot your daughter's soccer game, not a pretty blue sky!

As to shooting in one of the other modes, if I switch from Manual it tends to be to Av, which I do use a lot when doing wildlife shooting where I can't be picky about the light. I set my aperture to, like I mentioned earlier, give me a good balance for a reasonably fast shutter speed and a decent DOF. Of course for this type of shooting, if the light goes low, I will if "pushed" go for wider apertures and higher ISOs...I've been known to "stick" at f/2.8 and ISO 3200 to wrap up some shooting!

tonylong wrote in post #13201658
Well, I prefer to do like you did -- spot metering and Manual exposure -- if I can stay in a good position relative to the sun, one setting can pretty much get the shots I want, although yeah, sometimes you have to adapt to changing light.

So, in the shots you posted, that last one in the shade was challenging, sure, and I'd have probably made the same move you did, to "expose for the foreground/subjects" -- otherwise, well, things in pp would have been not so pleasant. Even though you were able to get good exposures for the blue sky in your first two shots, and I like to be able to get that when the sun is in a good spot, the fact remains that you were there to shoot your daughter's soccer game, not a pretty blue sky!

As to shooting in one of the other modes, if I switch from Manual it tends to be to Av, which I do use a lot when doing wildlife shooting where I can't be picky about the light. I set my aperture to, like I mentioned earlier, give me a good balance for a reasonably fast shutter speed and a decent DOF. Of course for this type of shooting, if the light goes low, I will if "pushed" go for wider apertures and higher ISOs...I've been known to "stick" at f/2.8 and ISO 3200 to wrap up some shooting!

So with the first two yes i got a blue sky but also have a nasty shadow in her face.... that's due to my location of shooting to the location of the sun understood.... is it a common thing in sports photography, and airshows etc.. to doge and burn like you do in portraits... cause that what i did for my daughters face to bring it out a bit more.

SUB1IM388 wrote in post #13201753
So with the first two yes i got a blue sky but also have a nasty shadow in her face.... that's due to my location of shooting to the location of the sun understood.... is it a common thing in sports photography, and airshows etc.. to doge and burn like you do in portraits... cause that what i did for my daughters face to bring it out a bit more.

Sure, do whatever works! I do pretty much all my pp in Lightroom, and the Lightroom shadow Fill tool is a very old and trusted friend to me!

Like I said, you get a lot more mileage with this type of thing if you shoot Raw...adjust one shot to taste and then apply to a batch of shots with similar tones.

^^^^^^^very nice

I got a few tips from a premiership football team photographer, evaluative metering in Manual, shutter speed of approx 1/450+, shoot wide open and adjust ISO to keep the shutter speed. Expose for the grass and focus on the players chest.

Remember these sounded weird to me but they work. This guy is constantly featured in the sports section of the newspapers over here

Danny when there's shade and sun on the field, I shoot in Av mode with + 1/3 EC, evaluative metering, wide open and in Raw with the 1D3. I've read where many sports photographers employ Av mode when shooting sports. So don't think you have to shoot in manual mode all the time.

Here's a shot where I employ the strategy above on a cloudy and rainy day.

In for the score.

1D3 and 70-200 (exif intact)

SUB1IM388 wrote in post #13201211
mmk... so I suddenly have an urge to shoot sports main factors being my Daughter started soccer and This 1D3's AF system is stellar..... any way IM trying to figure this whole thing out trying to expose for the subject and also have a properly exposed BG... im a portrait shooter so panning moving in and out of shadows etc is new to me...any tips you guys have would be nice i know this isnt the Sports forum but i figure since you all are using the same body I am you can be some help

I'm pleased to announce I joined the 1DIII club. Happy beyond belief. Testing it out tomorrow at my neice and nephew's soccer game.

I've got an interesting issue developing with my 1D and I wonder if anyone else has experienced this.

The camera works excellent in all areas except for one. On-camera flash. (BOO! I know. I know. On camera flash is a sin)

There are times (not often mind you) that I do want to use my 580exII on camera and I do want to use ETTL II. Unfortunately, there are many instances where my 1D does not want to allow ETTL. In fact aside from triggering the flash it won't even acknowledge that a Canon flash is attached to the camera. (IE: no custom functions available). My work-around for when this happens is to just switch to manual output and compensate as needed. This works ok in most situations, but I want my equipment to work as it should.

I know the flash works properly as it connects just fine with my 5DmkII. Something is up with the hot-shoe connection on my 1D.

Any thoughts as to what could be the root cause and how one could go about repairing it?

Thanks!

Boy, I wouldn't have a clue.

What happens when you push the FEC button? Does the little gauge show up when the flash is not mounted? Does it show up when the flash is mounted/on?

agphotography wrote in post #13223067
I've got an interesting issue developing with my 1D and I wonder if anyone else has experienced this.

The camera works excellent in all areas except for one. On-camera flash. (BOO! I know. I know. On camera flash is a sin)

There are times (not often mind you) that I do want to use my 580exII on camera and I do want to use ETTL II. Unfortunately, there are many instances where my 1D does not want to allow ETTL. In fact aside from triggering the flash it won't even acknowledge that a Canon flash is attached to the camera. (IE: no custom functions available). My work-around for when this happens is to just switch to manual output and compensate as needed. This works ok in most situations, but I want my equipment to work as it should.

I know the flash works properly as it connects just fine with my 5DmkII. Something is up with the hot-shoe connection on my 1D.

Any thoughts as to what could be the root cause and how one could go about repairing it?

Thanks!

Mine did that when I first got it (i chalked it up to user error) but I form update the firmware and seems to work fine

Mine is on the latest and greatest firmware and all other functions are fine.

I may have been wrong the whole time, it may actually be my flash that is the problem. All this time it has only been acting up on my 1D but just now I tried it on both cameras and it would only register in TTL mode not ETTL. If I unlock the flash from the hot shoe and wiggle it around a little bit then it seems to reconnect and stay that way.

Could it just be bad or dirty contacts on my 580? They look clean as far as I can tell...

Interesting...

My 580EXII went stupid on my MkIV today. Curious to see if anyone narrows down a root cause.