I primarily shoot real estate work. I use a Canon Xti with a 10-22mm USM lens, and a 580EX flash. I shoot property in Breckenridge, CO, so the sun is very intense and the diff b/w inside/outside lighting is often drastic. I can shoot in the eve or on overcast days to minmize the inherent challenges of the lighting differences. But of course I want to show the beautiful sunny/blue views through the windows as much as possible. If I am shooting with a window view in frame, I usu shoot in the range of f6.3-8, 1/125-1/200, FEC +2/3, ISO 200-400, Cloudy WB (to add some warmth). Flash is sometimes direct (with diffuser panel down to help wide angle coverage), but often bounced when the ceiling shape and wall colors allow. I open all blinds to allow in more light, and to show the views. I also turn on every interior light to help out. Typically, with the above settings, I can get the outside just slightly overexposed, and the inside just slightly underexposed. If the outside is exposed properly, then the inside is too dark, and Photoshop helps me to brighten the inside. I have had very little success in properly exposing both inside and outside with only one exposure. I would rather not get into multiple exposures, as my time is very limited. I do have another 420EX that I could trigger remotely, but I have little experience with that.
I have been shooting in JPEG. I know you experts scoff at this, and perhaps I should indeed shoot in RAW or JPEG+RAW, and have much better control. I use CS3, so I would have the option to use Camera Raw and all that stuff.
Since I shoot interiors about 10hrs/week (3-4hrs for freelance, about 6hrs for my prop mgmt company website), in the past, I have had extreme time poverty and preferred as little post processing as possible. Lately, I have come to realize that I am compromising my final images if I don't spend more time and learn more about post processing.
I have gotten in the habit of doing the following quick steps for interior shots:
- levels; moving the white slider just inside the mtn range
- brightening; select color range, highlights. inverse selection, then feather (20-50 depending). then apply levels again per above
- shadows; image adjust shadows (5-10 usu). to lighten up the darker parts of the image without overexposing the highlights.
- color balance; reducing reds, increasing blues often due to interior lights.
- curves; usu add a touch of contrast
- edit, transform, distort; to correct and converging verticals
I know I am asking a lot, and this is posted on the post processing page, but any advice on post processing steps?
thank you!
The program has given me a slight edge over other RE photographers in the area...
