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Thread started 13 Jun 2007 (Wednesday) 10:26
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interior flash photography

 
jcospolich
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Jun 13, 2007 10:26 |  #1

I primarily shoot real estate work. I use a Canon Xti with a 10-22mm USM lens, and a 580EX flash. I shoot property in Breckenridge, CO, so the sun is very intense and the diff b/w inside/outside lighting is often drastic. I can shoot in the eve or on overcast days to minmize the inherent challenges of the lighting differences. But of course I want to show the beautiful sunny/blue views through the windows as much as possible. If I am shooting with a window view in frame, I usu shoot in the range of f6.3-8, 1/125-1/200, FEC +2/3, ISO 200-400, Cloudy WB (to add some warmth). Flash is sometimes direct (with diffuser panel down to help wide angle coverage), but often bounced when the ceiling shape and wall colors allow. I open all blinds to allow in more light, and to show the views. I also turn on every interior light to help out. Typically, with the above settings, I can get the outside just slightly overexposed, and the inside just slightly underexposed. If the outside is exposed properly, then the inside is too dark, and Photoshop helps me to brighten the inside. I have had very little success in properly exposing both inside and outside with only one exposure.

I would rather not get into multiple exposures, as my time is very limited. I do have another 420EX that I could trigger remotely, but I have little experience with that. Would it be worthwhile to invest in some kind of light box to help out with darker interiors? I ask b/c many of these properties have large, vaulted interiors, and the ceilings aren't always white. So bouncing a 2nd flash unit might help some, but maybe a light box would be way better?

I have been shooting in JPEG. I know you experts scoff at this, and perhaps I should indeed shoot in RAW or JPEG+RAW, and have much better control. I use CS3, so I would have the option to use Camera Raw and all that stuff.

Since I shoot interiors about 10hrs/week (3-4hrs for freelance, about 6hrs for my prop mgmt company website), in the past, I have had extreme time poverty and preferred as little post processing as possible. Lately, I have come to realize that I am compromising my final images if I don't spend more time and learn more about post processing.

I have gotten in the habit of doing the following quick steps for interior shots:
- levels; moving the white slider just inside the mtn range
- brightening; select color range, highlights. inverse selection, then feather (20-50 depending). then apply levels again per above
- shadows; image adjust shadows (5-10 usu). to lighten up the darker parts of the image without overexposing the highlights.
- color balance; reducing reds, increasing blues often due to interior lights.
- curves; usu add a touch of contrast
- edit, transform, distort; to correct and converging verticals

I know I am asking a lot, but any advice is appreciated?

thank you!




  
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PhotosGuy
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Jun 13, 2007 10:53 |  #2

FEC +2/3,... I have had very little success in properly exposing both inside and outside with only one exposure.

If you must do it in one exposure, then I'd shoot on "M" & forget the EC. Get the outside exposure right & then adjust the flash exposure to bring up the interior level.

Lately, I have come to realize that I am compromising my final images if I don't spend more time and learn more about post processing.

Another D'oh! moment! ;) I'd shoot it in RAW & blend two exposures. Your time spent on PP wouldn't be very much more once you got used to it, & the results would be what you expect.

Layer Mask video tutorials
http://www.heathrowe.c​om/tuts/layerthumbs.as​p (external link)

http://www.thelightsri​ghtstudio.com/videos/B​lendedExposures.mov (external link)

Understanding Contrast Masking
http://www.luminous-landscape.com …/u-contrast-masking.shtml (external link)

Contrast Masking w/Luminosity Mask: http://www.thelightsri​ghtstudio.com/videos/B​lendedExposures.mov (external link)


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
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jcospolich
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Jun 13, 2007 11:12 |  #3

thanks PhotosGuy.
So you're saying to shoot RAW, just 1 shot, properly exposed for the outside (inside will be very darK), and then make a new layer in which I'd brighten the interior (without changing the exterior views)...then I would blend the 2 layers?
And I can do all of this without shooting 2-3 exposures per shot?




  
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PhotosGuy
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Jun 13, 2007 11:32 |  #4

So you're saying to shoot RAW, just 1 shot, properly exposed for the outside (inside will be very darK),

No. Get the outside exposure right & then adjust the flash exposure to bring up the interior level. Now take one shot with both exposures "right"? Use 2 raw conversions to blend the 2 conversion layers if you need to tweak the pic after.


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
Classic Carz, Racing, Air Show, Flowers.
Find the light... A few Car Lighting Tips, and MOVE YOUR FEET!
Have you thought about making your own book? // Need an exposure crutch?
New Image Size Limits: Image must not exceed 1600 pixels on any side.

  
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jcospolich
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Jun 13, 2007 11:46 |  #5

I will give it a shot, but usu when I expose the views properly (usu f/8+, 1/200), even with flash exposure compensation (FEC) anywhere from +2/3 to +1 1/3...I tend to light the interior but the flash power ends up blowing out the windows too.
do you follow?




  
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In2Photos
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Jun 13, 2007 12:50 |  #6

jcospolich wrote in post #3370798 (external link)
I will give it a shot, but usu when I expose the views properly (usu f/8+, 1/200), even with flash exposure compensation (FEC) anywhere from +2/3 to +1 1/3...I tend to light the interior but the flash power ends up blowing out the windows too.
do you follow?

If you are bouncing the flash you shouldn't blow the windows. With direct flash I could see that happening, but not with bounce. Do you have any examples you could show?


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PhotosGuy
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Jun 13, 2007 13:04 |  #7

even
with flash exposure compensation (FEC)

anywhere from +2/3 to +1 1/3...I tend to light the interior but the flash power ends up blowing out the windows too.

I follow, but you missed, "...then I'd shoot on "M" & forget the EC."
You need to have full control of what is happening. "M" on the cam & "M" on the flash. Otherwise, you're just chasing your own tail around in a EC circle.


FrankC - 20D, RAW, Manual everything...
Classic Carz, Racing, Air Show, Flowers.
Find the light... A few Car Lighting Tips, and MOVE YOUR FEET!
Have you thought about making your own book? // Need an exposure crutch?
New Image Size Limits: Image must not exceed 1600 pixels on any side.

  
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howzitboy
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Jun 13, 2007 14:12 |  #8

make some HDR shots and u good to go.


http://onehourwedding.​blogspot.com/ (external link)

  
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Roy ­ Webber
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Jul 17, 2008 15:46 |  #9

[QUOTE=PhotosGuy;33705​56]If you must do it in one exposure, then I'd shoot on "M" & forget the EC. Get the outside exposure right & then adjust the flash exposure to bring up the interior level.

Well said, a tried and tested method for me in the last 6 months...excellent advice. I will bounce light from the ceiling and add 1-3 stops to the flashgun exposure to compensate...all with the Canon 10-22


Canon 7D, 40D,100-400 IS L, EFS 15-85 IS, EFS 10-22-With Faulty USM, 055XPROB+488RC2, 430 & 580 II Flash, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8-:cool:
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Plant ­ McCloud
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Jul 18, 2008 05:52 as a reply to  @ Roy Webber's post |  #10

But what do you do if you're cranked all the way to wide (10mm) and the flash, even if it's bounced, does not evenly light the entire frame?




  
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yogestee
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Jul 18, 2008 10:11 |  #11

I used to do a fair bit of real estate pics when I worked for a newspaper.. This is what I did..

1. Set 1D MkII or 20D to manual, 200 or 400 ISO
2. Take a meter reading of the outside.
3. Set 580EX to ETTL, either bounce flash off the ceiling or use direct flash.
4. Shoot a test exposure and chimp.
5. If the interior is too dark or too light adjust the flash's FEC up or down to suit.

Changing the FEC will not alter the outside exposure..


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Roy ­ Webber
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Aug 03, 2008 10:13 |  #12

yogestee wrote in post #5935707 (external link)
I used to do a fair bit of real estate pics when I worked for a newspaper.. This is what I did..

1. Set 1D MkII or 20D to manual, 200 or 400 ISO
2. Take a meter reading of the outside.
3. Set 580EX to ETTL, either bounce flash off the ceiling or use direct flash.
4. Shoot a test exposure and chimp.
5. If the interior is too dark or too light adjust the flash's FEC up or down to suit.

Changing the FEC will not alter the outside exposure..

Rock on....


Canon 7D, 40D,100-400 IS L, EFS 15-85 IS, EFS 10-22-With Faulty USM, 055XPROB+488RC2, 430 & 580 II Flash, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8-:cool:
Photos (external link)

  
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