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Thread started 30 May 2004 (Sunday) 00:43
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Focusing problems in 10D

 
Tom ­ W
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Location: Chattanooga, Tennessee
     
May 30, 2004 22:20 |  #16

MarcyH wrote:
Thanks for all of your input. I will try to shoot with different lenses and different shutter/aperture combos to see if I get better results. It sounds like the camera is probably ok and post processing is a must. I probably want to keep my camera sharpness setting at 0 and do it in PS. The link for the sharpening tips is great! Has anyone discovered a great portrait lens that really makes a difference when shooting with the 10D (something affordable)??? How about those image stabilization lenses- do they help?

Yes, post-processing is necessary, though you can probably mass-process a lot of it. I'm not as good at that side of things as others, since I don't do commercial photography at this time. I think your camera is fine, although the lens may be a "little" bit soft - though not much, and it certainly could be helpful in some portriats if the image is a little soft.

As someone else mentioned, on the 10D, the 50 mm f/1.4 or f/1.8 are both pretty good for portriats, but the 85 mm f/1.8 is probably even better if you have the room to use it (it is a little longer). There's also an unaffordable 85 mm f/1.2L lens that is really designed for portriats, but it is very expensive. As well, there's the 100 mm f/2.0 that is reasonably priced and is known to be pretty sharp.

What focal length do you generally use for portriats with your present lens? That would be the length you would want to look for in a prime lens.


Tom
5D IV, M5, RP, & various lenses

  
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darrenb
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Location: Manchester, UK
     
May 31, 2004 01:55 |  #17

MarcyH wrote:
Thanks for all of your input. I will try to shoot with different lenses and different shutter/aperture combos to see if I get better results. It sounds like the camera is probably ok and post processing is a must. I probably want to keep my camera sharpness setting at 0 and do it in PS. The link for the sharpening tips is great! Has anyone discovered a great portrait lens that really makes a difference when shooting with the 10D (something affordable)??? How about those image stabilization lenses- do they help?


Marcy

Re: Portrait lens, the two photos I posted athttps://photography-on-the.net/forum/viewtopi​c.php?t=34833 used the 50mm F1.8 MkII, but I was quite close. I find my 28-135 IS works well (but it's not L glas), that said I did some comparrisons recently between a hired 70-200 F2.8L (non IS) and have to say the 28-135 faired quite well.

As far as IS is concerned I took this photo last October in NY's Rockerfella Centre, handheld, IS on Sky completely black, Seems to work for me, I think??

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Darren

wedding photographer manchester (external link)

  
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nosquare2003
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May 31, 2004 05:23 |  #18

50/1.8 MKII -- cheap but good enough for you to do comparison.




  
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kahfluie
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May 31, 2004 06:30 |  #19

I remember when I fgirst got my 10D... thought the same thing about softness. I was expecting sharpness right off the bat. Then I came here and learned more than I expected... and that being that digital SLR's need to be processed. It was annoying at first, mostly because I didnt understand... but now... I feel like I can manipulate any photo I shoot to look the way I want it too. Now, I'm happy with how my photos come out. Any bad shots are a result of me not doing something right... or my setting something wrong on the camera, etc.

Cheers,




  
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droosan
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Jun 02, 2004 14:02 |  #20

Everybody here is right. Don't let the camera sharpen. After you have cropped and sized the picture according to whatever you are going to do with it, then sharpen. The amount you sharpen is affected by the resolution of your presentation--very different if you are printing on a hi-rez printer vs putting the picture on a web page.




  
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abel
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Location: Houston, Texas
     
Jun 03, 2004 08:28 |  #21

i have a 10d and a 50mm lens, just got it yesterday. ive always heard the images were soft so i downloaded Fred Mirandas Intellisharpen program ($20) for photoshop which will give u 14 levels of sharpening

top image is straight from camera. lower one is after the itellisharpen software ran at a level 8

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link to the software: http://www.fredmiranda​.com/software/ (external link)

Abel Longoria
http://www.HoustonPoto​g.com (external link)

  
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darrenb
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Location: Manchester, UK
     
Jun 03, 2004 12:02 |  #22

droosan wrote:
Everybody here is right. Don't let the camera sharpen. After you have cropped and sized the picture according to whatever you are going to do with it, then sharpen. The amount you sharpen is affected by the resolution of your presentation--very different if you are printing on a hi-rez printer vs putting the picture on a web page.

Droosan I'm interested in your comment re: sharpening being dependent upon what it's final destination is - i.e. print or web, please can you expand, are you suggesting not to sharpen as much if printing to a good quality phot printer ?


wedding photographer manchester (external link)

  
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darrenb
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Location: Manchester, UK
     
Jun 03, 2004 12:04 |  #23

sorry, meant to say photo printer and I've only had one beer :shock:


wedding photographer manchester (external link)

  
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sgregory
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Joined Jun 2004
     
Jun 03, 2004 12:29 |  #24

Re: Focusing problems in 10D.

When I first purchased the 10D my pic were soft and I did feel it was not focusing on the proper spot with any Canon L glass I tried.
I did the proper testing with manual and autofocus and did find the camera was slightly off.
I took it back to the dealer with a written explanation, they sent it to Canon, back in 1.5 weeks and was perfect. So something had to be off. Never an explanation though from Canon. But this was almost a year ago and the camera has been giving me wonderfully sharp pictures right out of the box with many times no sharpening required in Photoshop CS after the fact.

Scott Gregory




  
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droosan
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Jun 04, 2004 14:20 |  #25

darrenb wrote:
droosan wrote:
Everybody here is right. Don't let the camera sharpen. After you have cropped and sized the picture according to whatever you are going to do with it, then sharpen. The amount you sharpen is affected by the resolution of your presentation--very different if you are printing on a hi-rez printer vs putting the picture on a web page.

Droosan I'm interested in your comment re: sharpening being dependent upon what it's final destination is - i.e. print or web, please can you expand, are you suggesting not to sharpen as much if printing to a good quality phot printer ?

That's not really what I meant. (However that may be true for some printers) What I really meant is this: If, in your workflow you resize pictures, sharpen AFTER you resize.

For example: A picture comes out of my 10D 3072 pixels across. I rarely use it that way. If I put it on a website, I may reduce it to 512 pixels across. As an inset on a brochure maybe 1000 pixels. If I email it to Grandma to print on her $100 inkjet, 6MP is way overkill. I'll probably reduce it to 1440 across. After I've got the picture the size I want to present it at, then I sharpen.) The 3072 original that I store on CD for future use, is unsharpened.

Just avoid the workflow of sharpen, resize, sharpen, since that will reduce the quality of your output. Sharpening should be the last thing you do before you output whatever your output is.




  
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Focusing problems in 10D
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