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Thread started 23 Jul 2007 (Monday) 07:36
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How should I PP this pano to get rid of the "border"?

 
BrewsterPilot
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Jul 23, 2007 07:36 |  #1

IMAGE NOT FOUND
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE


Big Version HERE! (external link)

Hi,
I tried out Photoshop CS3's new Photomerge feature yesterday, and love it a lot, but...
As you can see there's a "border" clearly visible on the left side (at the blending point of two exposures), what can I do to PP it away?

Thanks!
-BrewsterPilot



  
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René ­ Damkot
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Jul 23, 2007 08:13 |  #2

Adjust exposure on the different images.
If you still have the image in layers, use a curves adjustment layer between the layers, and use a gradient on the adjustment layer mask if needed.
If you don't have the image layered, start over ;)


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Jul 23, 2007 08:36 as a reply to  @ René Damkot's post |  #3

A great new feature of CS3 is the "AUTO-BLEND LAYERS".

Although it's not really suited for this image at this stage but auto-blend layers can really speed up image editing when merging layers.




  
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Coolhand
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Jul 23, 2007 09:48 |  #4

This is a good example of why using exposure lock is a good idea when taking panos


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PacAce
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Jul 23, 2007 11:38 |  #5

Coolhand wrote in post #3595765 (external link)
This is a good example of why using exposure lock is a good idea when taking panos

Or better yet, just shooting in manual mode and determine the optimal exposure setting for all the pano frames.


...Leo

  
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PacAce
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Jul 23, 2007 11:40 |  #6

BrewsterPilot wrote in post #3595198 (external link)
IMAGE NOT FOUND
| Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE


Big Version HERE! (external link)

Hi,
I tried out Photoshop CS3's new Photomerge feature yesterday, and love it a lot, but...
As you can see there's a "border" clearly visible on the left side (at the blending point of two exposures), what can I do to PP it away?

Thanks!
-BrewsterPilot

Adjust the exposure of the right most frame(s), which I think are a tad underexposed, using Levels or Curves so that it (they) are as bright as the leftmost frame.


...Leo

  
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chauncey
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Jul 23, 2007 14:39 as a reply to  @ PacAce's post |  #7

Kind of a hijack but: once you've photomerged how do you get them back into ACR to play with them some more?


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René ­ Damkot
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Jul 24, 2007 06:56 |  #8

Importing them into PS as 'smart object' should work I think...
Go here (external link), and have a read on Dr. Drowns 'Place-a-Matic'. I think you'ld have to merge the images by hand though.


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PacAce
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Jul 24, 2007 10:19 |  #9

chauncey wrote in post #3597579 (external link)
Kind of a hijack but: once you've photomerged how do you get them back into ACR to play with them some more?

When you say ACR, are you talking about Adobe Camera Raw, or did you mean Photoshop?


...Leo

  
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aRJun
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Jul 24, 2007 15:12 |  #10

Try an application made for Panos - My pic is AutoPano Pro. It uses Smartblend. I wouldn't say you have a "border" issue, I'd say you have a "seam" issue:)


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rammy
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Jul 24, 2007 16:34 |  #11

Do you mean like this:


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Workflow:

Spend a bit more time than I did to get better sky blends!

1. Do a levels adjustment, the right side of the histogram is lacking in contrast.
2. Create a polygonal lasso selection from the left third side, staying VERY close to the transition edge.
3. Feather the selection by 60 pixels (this number depends on the image size)
4. Add a levels adjustment layer and use the middle slider to blend with the rest of the image.
5. Use the Pattern Stamp and the Clone stamp to blend in the clouds.
6. Use the wagic wand set to 15 tolerance, anti-alias on and select the sky only.
7. Feather by 60 pixels again
8. Do a levels adjustment layer again and move the sliders to touch each side of the histogram
9. Inverse the selection
10. Do another levels adjustment layer again for the foreground and move the sliders to touch each side of the histogram

Tweak each adjustment layer to your hearts content :-)

Next time, shoot in MANUAL so the in-camera exposure does not change (which seems to have happended here). Set the aperture and shutter speed to a middle tone area of the scene, middle left of the scene here. Meter there and focus there (then set focus to manual) and then DO NOT change anything! Shoot from left to right and your images will blend first time round.

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aRJun
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Jul 24, 2007 17:09 |  #12

That's pretty amazing Rammy....I usually use SmartBlend only..the blend looks good on my monitor but I see bands (seams) in prints sometimes. Maybe I should follow this WF.


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rammy
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Jul 24, 2007 18:40 |  #13

aRJun wrote in post #3604301 (external link)
Maybe I should follow this WF.

You shouldn't have to if you get the technique right in shooting a pano :-)

Do everything in MANUAL basically.Set the mode to "M" - manual. Preset the aperture, shutter speed, ISO and white balance (metering on the most average area of the scene) and then manually focus using the hyperfocal distancing. Shoot left to right and when you blend you will never have to blend any seams PP. :-)

Take a look at the sky in this scene which is a 10 shot image (nearly 180 degree pano), the PP was only on the toning - taken using the rules above (Imagine how time consuming it would have been to keep the smooth tones in the sky if I had to PP) :


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This was taken hand held BTW.

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gef
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Jul 26, 2007 12:38 |  #14

Thanks rammy! I found this information very useful. I have done many pano images in the past, but this will certainly help me with future attempts!!


Greg

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rammy
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Jul 27, 2007 10:28 |  #15

gef wrote in post #3613503 (external link)
Thanks rammy! I found this information very useful. I have done many pano images in the past, but this will certainly help me with future attempts!!

You're welcome!

BTW - Where are the pics I uploaded and posted to show the fixes? All I can see is a red cross, name, number of views and size.

Is this cause of the new server and image uploads still pointing to an IP?


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How should I PP this pano to get rid of the "border"?
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