Clean it myself or back to Canon?

The attachment shows a part of my sensor from my brand new MKIII. I already had a few auto clean cycles and had a go with a hand blower. Still the same resuld. I have cleaned my 10D many times with the Copperhill methode, so I am reasonable sure I can do the same with my MKIII (only using Eclipse 2). My question is, as the camera is brand new and the sensor realy dirty, would you do it yourself or have Canon to do it?
Kind greeting, Ted

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Do it yourself unless you live next to a Canon Factory Service Center or are willing to be without a camera for 8-10 days while they have it.

Send it to canon ...I went to the trip last week at California and go by canon service center ...I drop my 30D for sensor cleaning ...next day 8AM I come back and pick it up .

Sensor cleaning is free and no need proof warranty card .The only thing need warranty card is when your camera had some malfunction issue .

If you going to ship it ..i think it would take about 2 week .They only charge the shipping back to you .

I agree clean it yourself it'll beat the down time without the camera.

How the heck can these morons send out a camera that is that dirty.
At the price they cost they should be spotless. I would bring it to them personally (i live 20 minutes away) and give them the next day to fix it or else the next day I would just go to my store and have it changed.

that doesn't look like simple dust specs. It's very defined. Post up a full high res image of it. Do you actually see anything on the sensor itself by reflecting light off the sensor glass? There might be a problem with the sensor itself since it looks too pixelated.

Obviously you havent mass produced anything,lol.

To the O.P. cleaning it yourself would be less time consuming as far as th time it takes to send it to Canon, them clean it, hold onto it for a bit, send it out to you, and then for the delivery.

gdl357 wrote in post #3632569
How the heck can these morons send out a camera that is that dirty.
At the price they cost they should be spotless. I would bring it to them personally (i live 20 minutes away) and give them the next day to fix it or else the next day I would just go to my store and have it changed.

JBaz wrote in post #3632609
that doesn't look like simple dust specs. It's very defined. Post up a full high res image of it. Do you actually see anything on the sensor itself by reflecting light off the sensor glass? There might be a problem with the sensor itself since it looks too pixelated.

Keep it up guys. He'll be trying to return a perfectly good camera. My XTi and my 30D both looked similar. A new camera has lubricant on the mechanicals than can be flung off during initial use. This stuff flies around the mirror box and can stick to the filter in front of the sensor. It is tougher to remove than dust as it smears when you start cleaning. Ordinary dust is easy to sweep off with a sensor brush or blow loose with a blower. The first cleanings are the hardest and it will get easier with time as you only have to deal with the dust once the initial excess lubricant gets cleaned up.

I know business and engineering processes. Usually with internal testing they can avoid shipping out bad units. I work for a medical equipment manufacturer and you'd be surprised of bad units that actually get shipped out. There are always a human element in these kinds of errors. Failed boxes accidentally making it back onto production floor... We've been pretty good about errors like that since we are fairly small.

The medical field is a lot more stringent then regular consumer items such as cameras in terms of government control. Business such as canon tries to control it more for self image and cost efficiency instead of dealing with fines and government organizations hassles. Once in a while a lemon is shipped by accident.


^That's why I said to check the sensor manually to see if there's anything on top of the AA filter/sensor. He did say he knows how to clean sensors so I'd expect him to know what dust or residue looks like. If there's nothing on there, then it could be a problem with either the lens or the actual sensor. I'd be leaning more on the sensor since I would also expect him to know how to clean lens.

JBaz wrote in post #3632713
I know business and engineering processes. Usually with internal testing they can avoid shipping out bad units. I work for a medical equipment manufacturer and you'd be surprised of bad units that actually get shipped out. There are always a human element in these kinds of errors. Failed boxes accidentally making it back onto production floor... We've been pretty good about errors like that since we are fairly small.

The medical field is a lot more stringent then regular consumer items such as cameras in terms of government control. Business such as canon tries to control it more for self image and cost efficiency instead of dealing with fines and government organizations hassles. Once in a while a lemon is shipped by accident.

You should understand my post above then and know what is involved in breaking in the mechanical devices inside the camera. They would have to take the camera off of the assembly line and fire some number of shots and then clean the sensor. Nothing that a price increase wouldn't cover.

yes, but mistakes can happen during testing. We'll have to wait back till we can speculate of what the real cause of the specs are from. It's just simple troubleshooting procedure. It could be lubrication. But he did say he manually cleaned it with a hand blower, so usually people would look to see if the sensor is actually cleaned after blowing. if it's lubrication, it should be quite noticeable on the AA filter.

JBaz wrote in post #3632771
yes, but mistakes can happen during testing. We'll have to wait back till we can speculate of what the real cause of the specs are from. It's just simple troubleshooting procedure. It could be lubrication. But he did say he manually cleaned it with a hand blower, so usually people would look to see if the sensor is actually cleaned after blowing. if it's lubrication, it should be quite noticeable on the AA filter.

Thats not correct. I have a sensor scope and you can see dust but you can't see the lubricant. F22 tells the story though. I went through this with guys at the local shop. What color is the lube? The blowers will not budge the lube and a brush will just smear it.

I would suggest to clean yourself.

A few months ago, I spotted some dirt on my sensor. I was afraid to do the cleaning myself. I sent it to Canon via my local camera shop. 3 weeks later, I got my camera back and I took a few shots. I was shocked that I saw more dirt on the snesor plus a brush fibre righ across my picture. Insensed, I marched back to my local camera shop and complained. For the next 1/2 hr the guy at the shop attempted to blow the hair out plus all the extra spots Canon gave me. What a joke. I paid A$120 for this!!

2 weeks ago, i noticed a hair in the sensor but this time I follwed the user manual instruction and cleaned the sensor myself (rocket blower) and all was good again. Never again to Canon unless something is broken..
Rgds
Patrick

DDan wrote in post #3632831
Thats not correct. I have a sensor scope and you can see dust but you can't see the lubricant. F22 tells the story though. I went through this with guys at the local shop. What color is the lube? The blowers will not budge the lube and a brush will just smear it.

Lubrication will not reflect/refract light the same as the sensor glass. It's not perfectly clear so if you use reflective light, such as using overhead lights in an office, you can detect very minute specs that aren't reflected back correctly.

JBaz wrote in post #3633044
Lubrication will not reflect/refract light the same as the sensor glass. It's not perfectly clear so if you use reflective light, such as using overhead lights in an office, you can detect very minute specs that aren't reflected back correctly.

Hmmm. We were in their showroom with lots of plate glass and skylights. Are you using a loupe of some sort? We couldn't see it with the sensor scope which is LED lighting and we couldn't see it with our eyes in the ambient light.