'EXTREME MACRO' for $ 4.49!!

Hi,

As you can see in my Gear List, I don't have a Macro Lens, neither was i willing to spend more on camera gear...

I had read about this technique wherein you can reverse mount a 50mm lens on a 75-300 zoom lens by means of some "macro coupler rings" and get some insane magnification shots! So, off I went and ordered a 58-58mm and a 58-52mm coupler ring for $ 4.49 each of ebay. Today they arrived

This is the first picture with the 70-300 at about 70mm, giving a magnification of about 1.4:1 (70mm/50mm). The DOF is wafer thin and its very difficult to find focus. The minimum focus distance is very little, with the front element of the lens only about 10-15mm from the subject.

1/60, f32, ISO1600, uncropped

looks good - I was going to state that didnt look very close - then i saw your other images!

Use off camera flash to avoid shake and allow ISO 200 - and also open up to around f8 for best resolution even at expense of DOF.

racketman wrote in post #3676600
Use off camera flash to avoid shake and allow ISO 200 - and also open up to around f8 for best resolution even at expense of DOF.

If you don't have an off camera flash just now- You need one of my Flash Tunnels
(see sig) but seriously these look cool; nice job and good enthusiasm lol- I'm always trying to find ways to avoid paying for new kit; (see Flash tunnel in my sig again) and usually I fail lol

racketman wrote in post #3676600
looks good - I was going to state that didnt look very close - then i saw your other images!

Use off camera flash to avoid shake and allow ISO 200 - and also open up to around f8 for best resolution even at expense of DOF.

Thanks! But, what's causing the CA? Is it the direct sunlight? or the small aperture?

THAT THINGS HUUUUUUUGE!!!!!!

Can you post more, when you get a chance with other subjects?
I want to see a couple of more before I go and spend all that money.
I can not afford a macro lens, not living in this crazy state of California.
Thanks,
John

Nice shots. You can also achieve great magnification by just using the reversed 50 attached to the camera with either a bought or homemade adapter, makes it a much lighter and easier rig to handhold without the larger lens on it. Take a look at my pictures in my signature link, I think the magnification should be similar.

Viky wrote in post #3676586
1) Why is there so much CA in the high magnification pics? How to control the same.

2) What can be done to increase the DOF?

3) Any other tips, suggestions from veterans who have 'been there, done that' will be highly appreciated

Still awaiting inputs on above points from the MACRO Veterans...

Beautiful macros...

mnjaga wrote in post #3682010
Beautiful macros...

Thanks guys! But, more than C&C, I'm looking for tips and suggestions from the Macro specialists, which I don't seem to be getting much

Viky wrote in post #3676586
However, I have following questions in mind:

1) Why is there so much CA in the high magnification pics? How to control the same.

2) What can be done to increase the DOF?

3) Any other tips, suggestions from veterans who have 'been there, done that' will be highly appreciated

Well, I'm not a veteran, but here's my thoughts, for what they are worth.

1. The CA us usually caused by using too small an f/stop. Once you get above f11, the narrow aperture will start to cause CA around well defined edges. By it's nature, macro pictures make the effect more obvious. Other than reducing the aperture, this can be reduced in a manipulation package.
   
2. Unfortunately, increasing the aperture will reduce DOF more. At high magnification there is little you can do in a single shot. However, you can stack your images using LordV's stacking tutorial. This involves taking several pictures from the same viewpoint, and focussing on a different point each time, then combining the images into a single picture.
   
3. As for technique, you have most of the basics. Using manual focus and slowly getting closer. A diffused flash can help keep the shutter speed up and reduce shake, but you'll need a bracket to position the flash nearer the end of the lens. (I think a cheap one can be picked up on eBay for around $10). Take a look in this thread for some example brackets/diffusers.

Think you alreay have some tips for this but at magnifications above 1:1 I would not go smaller than F11 and indeed probably use F8 to prevent diffraction softening. Think the CA you are getting is probably made a lot worse by shooting into the sun- always try to shoot away from the sun plus use of a diffused flash above 1:1 is also much easier.
Think I'd also try reversing the kit lens onto your 50mm lens. Reversed lenses are normally better if both are primes not zooms.

brian V.

dreamline wrote in post #3682532
Well, I'm not a veteran, but here's my thoughts, for what they are worth.

1. The CA us usually caused by using too small an f/stop. Once you get above f11, the narrow aperture will start to cause CA around well defined edges. By it's nature, macro pictures make the effect more obvious. Other than reducing the aperture, this can be reduced in a manipulation package.
   
2. Unfortunately, increasing the aperture will reduce DOF more. At high magnification there is little you can do in a single shot. However, you can stack your images using LordV's stacking tutorial. This involves taking several pictures from the same viewpoint, and focussing on a different point each time, then combining the images into a single picture.
   
3. As for technique, you have most of the basics. Using manual focus and slowly getting closer. A diffused flash can help keep the shutter speed up and reduce shake, but you'll need a bracket to position the flash nearer the end of the lens. (I think a cheap one can be picked up on eBay for around $10). Take a look in this thread for some example brackets/diffusers.

Oh, and you can't beat practice.

Hope this helps.

Thanks a lot for the detailed explainations!

From what i understand, 1/200s, f/8-11, ISO 200 with a diffused Flash on an extension bracket would be a good starting point...from there I can proceed as per the exposure obtained....

As for LordV's stacking tutorial, its sure gets you amazing results.... but seems complicated and difficult to achieve for a newbie like me

LordV wrote in post #3682533
Think you alreay have some tips for this but at magnifications above 1:1 I would not go smaller than F11 and indeed probably use F8 to prevent diffraction softening. Think the CA you are getting is probably made a lot worse by shooting into the sun- always try to shoot away from the sun plus use of a diffused flash above 1:1 is also much easier.
Think I'd also try reversing the kit lens onto your 50mm lens. Reversed lenses are normally better if both are primes not zooms.

brian V.

Yes, at these magnifications, f/8 - f/11 should be my preffered aperture range.

Regarding CA, I think i'll avoid shooting into the sun.

Thanks for the tips!

Viky