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FORUMS Post Processing, Marketing & Presenting Photos RAW, Post Processing & Printing 
Thread started 08 Aug 2007 (Wednesday) 17:57
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Creating High Dynamic Range Images

 
flyingpanther
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Aug 08, 2007 17:57 |  #1

Hello everyone,
I am new and what a great forum. I recently created a tutorial on how I create my high dynamic range images if anyone is interested. Here is the link: High Dynamic Range Images (external link)

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www.flickriver.com/pho​tos/flyingpanther (external link)
Creating High Dynamic Range Images (external link)

  
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chris_m_atl
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Aug 08, 2007 18:33 |  #2

Beautiful images and very easy-read tutorial. Thanks for sharing!


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PhotosGuy
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Aug 08, 2007 19:59 |  #3

Good one, & very nice work, too! I'd edit your post to mention the PS versions that it will work with, & put a link in here: -= FAQ & IMPORTANT LINKS =-

And, welcome to POTN!


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tomd
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Aug 08, 2007 20:03 |  #4

I looked through your gallery, stunning work. Very nice.

Welcome to the POTN forum.
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Bubble
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Aug 08, 2007 20:05 |  #5
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thanks for the tutorial. I'll try it later.


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C2S
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Aug 09, 2007 10:00 |  #6

Agreed, very good tutorial. Easy to read and understand, nice explaining images. A few questions though, which I've been wondering myself while experimenting recently: (and couldn't find in the tutorial)

1. As for the EC-meter, what would be the ideal center point for the bracketing? For example, if you've found a setting where the highlights are very close to being clipped, would you set the center point of the bracketing exactly there, or the minimum end instead? I myself have been setting the center point at +1,5 stops. (AEB range set at -2,0,+2)

2. Since you'll be having three shots of the same scene (just with different exposures), would it be better not to change the contrast / apply custom curves to the individual images, and leave all that to be done after the HDR-image is generated? Would this 'preprocessing' make much of a difference, and if so, how would it look different?


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Mum2J&M
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Aug 09, 2007 11:07 |  #7

I've seen HDR images before and always wondered exactly how they were done. I don't normally bracket and don't currently have a decent tripod (mine is literally on its last leg - purchased in the 80s). I would assume this would be more effective with landscape as opposed to portrait-type images. Or is it all really just dependent upon tonal variation?


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chauncey
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Aug 09, 2007 11:38 as a reply to  @ Mum2J&M's post |  #8

I perused your web site, then I did it again, and again. I cannot comment on your true artistic ability because I do not know what is good or not, but I do know that I like your work.

I've got CS3. Can I create the same quality images with it as can be done with Photomatix?


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jylitalo
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Aug 09, 2007 11:43 |  #9

flyingpanther wrote in post #3693094 (external link)
Hello everyone,
I am new and what a great forum. I recently created a tutorial on how I create my high dynamic range images if anyone is interested. Here is the link: High Dynamic Range Images (external link)

As a Linux user, I can't directly translate instruction from this tutorial into my Linux box, but it was still nice to see from well laid out tutorial, how it would happen on Windows and how it might happen, if I one day move my photography stuff into Mac.
Are there any HDR tools that would be available on Linux?


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flyingpanther
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Aug 09, 2007 12:49 |  #10

C2S wrote in post #3696746 (external link)
Agreed, very good tutorial. Easy to read and understand, nice explaining images. A few questions though, which I've been wondering myself while experimenting recently: (and couldn't find in the tutorial)

1. As for the EC-meter, what would be the ideal center point for the bracketing? For example, if you've found a setting where the highlights are very close to being clipped, would you set the center point of the bracketing exactly there, or the minimum end instead? I myself have been setting the center point at +1,5 stops. (AEB range set at -2,0,+2)

2. Since you'll be having three shots of the same scene (just with different exposures), would it be better not to change the contrast / apply custom curves to the individual images, and leave all that to be done after the HDR-image is generated? Would this 'preprocessing' make much of a difference, and if so, how would it look different?


As this is still a very rough and general tutorial I thank you all for the comments and feedback on this. I will (time permitting) consider your input for editing.

I'll try my best to answer these questions and anyone please correct my if I am wrong or your experience tells you otherwise.

1. The "center point" as you put it for bracketing is variable for the lighting conditions. It can also be an individual preference. I have found that depending on the contrast of the scene and the overall general light intensity (what the camera will meter to) I typically adjust the bracketing such that I capture the full range of light in the sequence of images taken. By adjusting the (center point) of the bracket setting + or - from neutral just as when taking a single shot I have found the best results. I typically want the neutral shot or center point shot to be the one that would stand on its own as a single shot image (good overall balance of highlights and shadows with your main subject having the best exposure.) As I shoot more HDR photos I find it easier to set the "center point" and bracketing range that is best for the situation. I guess my best advice is to experiment with it a little. Try a few different sequential shots with different "center points".

2. I typically do nothing to the images before merging. I have tried different (things) but have found the best results by making my adjustments after merging the HDR. Sorry I can't be of much help here. Maybe someone else can chime in on this one.

I hope this helps.

Tyler


www.flickriver.com/pho​tos/flyingpanther (external link)
Creating High Dynamic Range Images (external link)

  
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flyingpanther
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Aug 09, 2007 12:56 |  #11

chauncey wrote in post #3697182 (external link)
I perused your web site, then I did it again, and again. I cannot comment on your true artistic ability because I do not know what is good or not, but I do know that I like your work.

I've got CS3. Can I create the same quality images with it as can be done with Photomatix?

I have seen superb HDRIs using CS2 and CS3. That being said, I have CS2 but still use Photomatix for the merge. I really like the power of the tone mapping feature and the ease of use.


www.flickriver.com/pho​tos/flyingpanther (external link)
Creating High Dynamic Range Images (external link)

  
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flyingpanther
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Aug 09, 2007 13:00 |  #12

jylitalo wrote in post #3697211 (external link)
As a Linux user, I can't directly translate instruction from this tutorial into my Linux box, but it was still nice to see from well laid out tutorial, how it would happen on Windows and how it might happen, if I one day move my photography stuff into Mac.
Are there any HDR tools that would be available on Linux?

My tutorial uses screen shots from my Windows machine and now that I have my Mac I will not go back. I am sorry but I do not know about the compatibility of HDR with Linux. I hope someone will chime in on this.


www.flickriver.com/pho​tos/flyingpanther (external link)
Creating High Dynamic Range Images (external link)

  
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shannyD
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Aug 09, 2007 13:10 |  #13

thank you for posting that. it was a great read, and an easy read. i actually understood it. thats always the hardest thing when i look at that. people show pictures of the steps, but dont explain how to get to the steps.
AWESOME work!!
shannonn




  
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nicklk
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Aug 09, 2007 14:24 |  #14

Great read!


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Domesticfix
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Aug 11, 2007 17:34 |  #15

Great tutorial. Thanks ..


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