http://martinandreasen.dk …l/index.php?showimage=316![]()
Just wondering how this style is done...I absolutely love his images, and would love to know how he does them!
Swift Goldmember 1,225 posts Joined Dec 2006 Location: Ohio, USA More info | Aug 18, 2007 13:11 | #1 http://martinandreasen.dk …l/index.php?showimage=316 Canon 550D | Canon 70-200mm f/4L USM | Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM | Canon Speedlight 430EX | Raynox DCR-250 Macro
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Radtech1 Everlasting Gobstopper 6,455 posts Likes: 38 Joined Jun 2003 Location: Trantor More info | Aug 18, 2007 14:02 | #2 There is about a hundred or so shots, with a dozen or so different approaches. Please link to one, and then let's dissect it. .
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Aug 18, 2007 14:03 | #3 I did link to one? Canon 550D | Canon 70-200mm f/4L USM | Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM | Canon Speedlight 430EX | Raynox DCR-250 Macro
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Livinthalife Cream of the Crop 5,118 posts Likes: 1 Joined Jan 2006 Location: Austin,TX More info | Aug 18, 2007 14:13 | #5 howzitboy wrote in post #3750436 looks tone mapped and sharpened
-Andy-
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Aug 18, 2007 14:14 | #6 Tone mapping doesn't give that dark feeling displayed in the image. All that does is bring out the clouds. Canon 550D | Canon 70-200mm f/4L USM | Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM | Canon Speedlight 430EX | Raynox DCR-250 Macro
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B3SEO Senior Member 783 posts Joined Jul 2007 Location: Washington State More info | Aug 18, 2007 14:16 | #7 I would think he's doing most of that in photoshop, which would be the easiest way to do it. I can think of this way to achieve that effect. Step back please... I'm armed with a camera...
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Aug 18, 2007 14:19 | #8 B3SEO, I appreciate your explanation, but would it not be easier to create a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer, then lower the Saturation to -54 or so, and then go over the parts you want to keep (everything outside the hand and leaf) saturated with a black brush. Canon 550D | Canon 70-200mm f/4L USM | Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM | Canon Speedlight 430EX | Raynox DCR-250 Macro
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Aug 18, 2007 14:22 | #9 Here is my try at this type of "style"
What I did was desaturate to -70 using the explanation in my post above, and add a Curves adjustment layer and choosing "Strong Contrast" in the drop down menu for the curve. Canon 550D | Canon 70-200mm f/4L USM | Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM | Canon Speedlight 430EX | Raynox DCR-250 Macro
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Radtech1 Everlasting Gobstopper 6,455 posts Likes: 38 Joined Jun 2003 Location: Trantor More info | Aug 18, 2007 14:29 | #10 Well lets see. .
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Aug 18, 2007 14:45 | #11 Thank you Rad, that sounds like what he might have done.
Looks to be right .Canon 550D | Canon 70-200mm f/4L USM | Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM | Canon Speedlight 430EX | Raynox DCR-250 Macro
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Aug 18, 2007 15:35 | #12 Wow...This action I found in this forum stickied: The highlights are blown out though. Canon 550D | Canon 70-200mm f/4L USM | Canon 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM | Canon Speedlight 430EX | Raynox DCR-250 Macro
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NickSim87 Sir Chimp-a-lot 3,602 posts Likes: 2 Joined Dec 2005 Location: SE, Michigan More info | Aug 18, 2007 15:56 | #13 |
B3SEO Senior Member 783 posts Joined Jul 2007 Location: Washington State More info | Aug 18, 2007 16:23 | #14 Swift1 wrote in post #3750478 B3SEO, I appreciate your explanation, but would it not be easier to create a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer, then lower the Saturation to -54 or so, and then go over the parts you want to keep (everything outside the hand and leaf) saturated with a black brush. Was this basically what you were trying to explain? That's another way to do it. However, I'm not much for brushing back "in" color, and that would take a little longer. Step back please... I'm armed with a camera...
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Radtech1 Everlasting Gobstopper 6,455 posts Likes: 38 Joined Jun 2003 Location: Trantor More info | Aug 18, 2007 16:39 | #15 B3SEO wrote in post #3750947 Rad looks like she analyzed it quite well (again!). ! ? ? ! ! ? ? ? ! ? .
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