Tips for Shooting White Shirts

Curtis N wrote in post #3848119
Leo's explanation was better than mine, but you have to admit my picture was more interesting.

I dunno - those t-shirts in the back yard are HOT !!

On a more realistic note, I will be getting a light meter very soon. The camera's spot meter is sometimes unwieldy.

Leo, you are the man, but I'm so stupid these days, I am going to print that out and re-read it until my brain can understand what you tested and how to fix what's not wrong yet.

SuzyView wrote in post #3848497
Leo, you are the man, but I'm so stupid these days, I am going to print that out and re-read it until my brain can understand what you tested and how to fix what's not wrong yet.

Suzy, if there's anything you need clarified regarding my test, just ask. Sometimes I tend to generalize things, especially when my post is running long.

PacAce wrote in post #3848573
Suzy, if there's anything you need clarified regarding my test, just ask.

I'm not Suzy, but I'll ask anyway.

How did you calibrate the meter for your camera in the first place? Or did you calibrate it at all? It seems strange that it would be a full stop off from a gray card reading. I mean, isn't that the whole reason gray cards exist?

I light meter will probably be my next gear purchase. I read about the more expensive ones being able to store calibration settings for more than one camera... or something like that.

Now you understand what wedding photographers go through. White dress, often large and shiny, lots of detail to record, black tuxedo..... loved the experiment. good explanation, thanks.

Curtis N wrote in post #3848119
Leo's explanation was better than mine, but you have to admit my picture was more interesting.

Without a doubt - I'm still studying it at the moment . . .

PacAce wrote in post #3848573
Suzy, if there's anything you need clarified regarding my test, just ask. Sometimes I tend to generalize things, especially when my post is running long.

I do shoot weddings and the white dress against the white building has it's limitations, especially when the sun is high in the sky. I am seriously considering a light meter. Can you recommend one that isn't going to break the bank and I can read quickly and make sense of it?

SuzyView wrote in post #3850717
I do shoot weddings and the white dress against the white building has it's limitations, especially when the sun is high in the sky. I am seriously considering a light meter. Can you recommend one that isn't going to break the bank and I can read quickly and make sense of it?

I find the Sekonic L-358 very good, very versatile, and small enough to be easy to handle and use.

Folks who do a lot of outdoor work and want to use a true (like 1° coverage) spotmeter a lot benefit from the more expensive units with the built-in spot meter feature. I have the 1° attachment for my L-358 which works OK for the limited use I have for it.

Well, I'm convinced... and am promptly returning the Light Meter back to the top of my wish list...

The Sekonic L-358 sounds good too... Thanks guys...Cheers.

Curtis N wrote in post #3849117
I'm not Suzy, but I'll ask anyway.

How did you calibrate the meter for your camera in the first place? Or did you calibrate it at all? It seems strange that it would be a full stop off from a gray card reading. I mean, isn't that the whole reason gray cards exist?

I light meter will probably be my next gear purchase. I read about the more expensive ones being able to store calibration settings for more than one camera... or something like that.

Well, Suzy, I mean, Curtis, the reason for the discrepancy, I think, is because the meters, both the handheld and the one in the camera, are calibrated for 12% gray instead of the 18% gray that everybody takes to be mid-gray. This is also the reason the histogram of an 18% gray card is just left of center instead of smack dab in the middle of the histogram. Shoot a 12% gray card and the spike will be in the middle of the histogram.

BTW, I did not calibrate my meter. For reflective metering, the meter and the camera both show the same results so there's really no need to fiddle with the calibration.

Nice arrangement of shirts,Leo, but next time you might check out your local Dollar Store? Shot taken 4 clicks over "the Sekonic hand", as in: Need an exposure crutch? Just resized in PS.
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SkipD wrote in post #3850831
I find the Sekonic L-358 very good, very versatile, and small enough to be easy to handle and use.

Folks who do a lot of outdoor work and want to use a true (like 1° coverage) spotmeter a lot benefit from the more expensive units with the built-in spot meter feature. I have the 1° attachment for my L-358 which works OK for the limited use I have for it.

To add to what Skip said, I have the Sekonic L-558 (which has been replaced by the L-758) but if you don't need all the bells and whistles it provides (such as PW compatible transmitter and spot metering and, with the L-758, programmability), the L-358 would be a good alternative. You can always add the other features to the L-358, if available, later although, by then, you will probably have spent close to the same amount of money as the L-758.

PhotosGuy wrote in post #3851271
Nice arrangement of shirts,Leo, but next time you might check out your local Dollar Store? Shot taken 4 clicks over "the Sekonic hand", as in: Need an exposure crutch? Just resized in PS.
.

Thanks for the suggestion, Frank. I'll head over to the Dollar Store now and see if I can pick one of those up. I'll just have to find a place to hide it so my grandson can't find it.

I was lucky to find it, & the horns are pretty close to a flesh color, too. Sorry about the pre-set cloudy WB there.

Just checked out the Sekonic L-358 and it's quite affordable and fits my needs. I put it on my wishlist at B&H. Now, I just have to decide whether to order the 300 f4 or save for the 2.8. AHHHHH.