Vivitar 285's XTI

Looking to purchase two vivitar 285's, one for on camera one for off . Wicked newb question....What else do i need? can i purchase a flash and mount it right to the shoe and fire away (canon xti body)? if not what chord do i need (exactly)? also to shoot off camera say on a bracket, what chord do i need? and if i shoot off camera on a tripod what is the cheapest setup up? Thanks guys i really appreciate all of your help...there is information everywhere, so much is contradiction of one another or out of date. THANKS again.

You'll need a PC Sync adapter since the XTi doesn't have a PC port. It goes on the hot shoe to give you that terminal...assuming you control the flashes wired and want both to be off camera. If you wanna go wireless you can grab up some cheap eBay triggers/receivers. You'll also need a way to fire the 2nd strobe. Either a receiver for both flashes or an optical slave trigger for the 2nd light to fire on the 1st light's pop.

If you always keep one flash on-camera, you can just get the optical slave trigger for the 2nd strobe.

Other than that you'll probably need or want umbrellas & light stands.

Here's a few threads from the sticky that might help:
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=308108
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=246797

Check the voltage of the 285. XT and XTI will only handle 6V..anymore than that will fry the circuitry. If your flash is over 6V and you still want to use it, you will need a safe sync that will reduce anything plugged into it to 6v. Plus beware of the XTI underexposure. I had one and sent it back after 2 days. EVERY shot was underexposed..even after a +1 FEC EVERY shot was still underexposed. I read lots of reviews and every owner had the same problem so I sent it back for a refund. I now have 2 XT's and love them both.

thanks, sorry for the delay, i was out of town. Alright, well i have my two 285's. I wanted to know exactly what i should use, i know it sounds like i just want my research done for me, but being new, there is just too much out there. First i need to get a safe sync? made by who? how does it mount? inbetween the camera and the hotshoei take it? Now as far as running a flash off camera, with a on camera bracket...what is the best way to sync it? there are many products, anyone you would recommend over another? Thanks all in advance!!

Will this allow me to do both? http://cgi.ebay.com …ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcm​dZViewItem

i can shoot on camera, or leave that in the hotshoe and shoot off camera with a pc sync cord correct?

Zeus87 wrote in post #4052624
thanks, sorry for the delay, i was out of town. Alright, well i have my two 285's. I wanted to know exactly what i should use, i know it sounds like i just want my research done for me, but being new, there is just too much out there. First i need to get a safe sync? made by who? how does it mount? inbetween the camera and the hotshoei take it? Now as far as running a flash off camera, with a on camera bracket...what is the best way to sync it? there are many products, anyone you would recommend over another? Thanks all in advance!!

Will this allow me to do both? http://cgi.ebay.com …ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcm​dZViewItem

i can shoot on camera, or leave that in the hotshoe and shoot off camera with a pc sync cord correct?

You may or may not need a voltage limiting device like a safe sync.

Your XTi can tollerate up to 250 Volts. That 6 Volts limit is just incorrect. Earlier Canon DLSR units had a 6 Volt limit.

Measure the sync Voltage of the 285 units you have and if they are at or below 250 Volts, only then employ a voltage limiting device. THe 285 units can vary in sync Voltage from 6 to 500 Volts. Be sure to label each unit with the sync Voltage after you measure it.

The hotshoe base safe sync is sort of a clunky thing and can introduce sync consistency by itself.

If the flash you are trying to use has a sync Voltage in excess of 250 Volts, well you do not have much choice.

But, just introducing a Safe Sync where it is not needed sets yourself up for possible sync issues due to the clunky nature of the safe sync device. Also, the $50.00 cost of a safe sync is not incidental. Well worth the 5 minutes it takes to make a sync Voltage measurement on a flash.

So use one if necessary, but avoid one if you can.

In short, act on knowledge, not fear.

Enjoy! Lon

ahh very good, thank you much! Last thing, how do i go about checking the voltage of them, im familiar with ohms tester (automotive) what should i set it on, and what points do i make contact with. Sorry for being an idiot, but i just got my camera back from a repair (autofocus died) and i would hate to send it back out on mere ignorance. THANKS again!!!

Zeus87 wrote in post #4053948
ahh very good, thank you much! Last thing, how do i go about checking the voltage of them, im familiar with ohms tester (automotive) what should i set it on, and what points do i make contact with. Sorry for being an idiot, but i just got my camera back from a repair (autofocus died) and i would hate to send it back out on mere ignorance. THANKS again!!!

If you have used a meter before this will be easy.

Set the meter to a DC Volts scale. Start with a high range and work down to get more accuracy.

Turn on the flash.

Put the positive meter lead on the center contact on the bottom of the flash foot.

Put the negative lead on one of the side rail contacts. These are slightly hard to get to on the 285 but they lurking in that groove on either side of the flash foot.

After you get the reading immediately make a nice label and apply it to the flash so you will always know the sync Voltage ID of that unit.

Enjoy! Lon

FlashZebra wrote in post #4053648
Your XTi can tollerate up to 250 Volts.


Enjoy! Lon

Officially quoted by Canon? Nice of you to stick your neck out!! Please don't quote the famous Chuck Westfall Email it's as clear as mud.

I personally won't take the risk as I can't afford to replace my camera. Paranoid? maybe........ Safe? as a celibate man wearing a condom.

Just buy the new 285HVs and you will have no problems.

well to make a long story short, he sent both flashes, one had a broken foot. I opened my box today, and i got a 285 HV and a sunpak 544 with bracket ect. If this means something diffrent let me know. I looked up the 544 and it looks good for $40's thanks guys. THANKS for the testing info also!

My Rebel XT only 2 years old has a 6v limitation. Had it worked on after I first got it, used a vivitar 283 without a safesync..fried the hotshoe circuitry.
Better to be safe than sorry.

LightUser wrote in post #4059324
My Rebel XT only 2 years old has a 6v limitation. Had it worked on after I first got it, used a vivitar 283 without a safesync..fried the hotshoe circuitry.
Better to be safe than sorry.

Yes, but the 283 could have been as much as 500 Volts.

Did you ever check the sync Voltage?

But in any case the OP has a 285HV (likely the older version that is likely at about 12 Volts or so) and a Sunpak 544 that is likely at or below 12 Volts.

Enjoy! Lon

285HV is the newer version.

I have three of these that I used in the past (when I did some studio work). I had them tripod mounted with the bounce flash adaptors clipped to the bodies, and used optical triggers to fire them. Vivitar sells (or used to) power adaptors to hook up to wall outlets to save on batteries.
I used a flash meter to determine the exposure, and would turn the power down on each of the 285's to around 1/8 or 1/16th (can't really remember which). Be careful not to pre-trigger the flashes with the focus light tho.

FlashZebra wrote in post #4059446
Yes, but the 283 could have been as much as 500 Volts.

Did you ever check the sync Voltage?

But in any case the OP has a 285HV (likely the older version that is likely at about 12 Volts or so) and a Sunpak 544 that is likely at or below 12 Volts.

Enjoy! Lon

No but it doesn't matter, when it fries my hotshoe it doesn't matter about the sync voltage.