image stabilization

editing post for removal.

High shutter speeds will freeze a lot of action. Image stabilization will not help.

As DDan said, first off you need high Shutter speed, and thus to get high shutter speed you need to balance between ISO settings and Aperture, keeping the ISO as low as possible, against the required DOF, to gt the right exposure.
Very unlikely using a tripod,, if some are using long lenses may use monopod, but that makes no difference to the freezeing of a fast moving object.

heh it is called image Stabilization, (IS)
IS is fitted to some mid/bigger lenses to help with keeping the image stable when you are hand holding the camera at slow shutter speeds, other wise slow shutter speed and camera shake gives a blurred out of focus look
IS is under rated in my view, and great for shots in bad light, just remember the subject needs to be pretty still at slow shutter speeds.
I have quite often shot at 1/6th hand held and got a great shot not blurred

a rebel XTI will do it in reasonable light and ofc the right length lens.

Besides high shutter speed, it takes cujones to stand there and a modicum of talent thrown in.

me

Well you have taken a shot that has frozen everything, you have to remember a lot of shots you see on this site, and others are using bodies, lenses, that cost £1000's, and they are also very very good at PP post production of an image.

Without seeing a larger version of the image, hard to see, but the first most important thing is Lens quality, a better body will improve the image, but no where near as much as the lens you are using

tomdlgns wrote in post #3915290
gotcha, so this is something that i can easily do with my digital rebel XTi?

I agree with everyone else on the hardware issues, but I wouldn't say it's done easily. Experience combined with knowing what your body and lens are capable of will do a lot more to help than just the lens a body alone. My advise: go try it at a bunch of different events and the full scope of what's involved will be much more apparent. Talk to the photographers there, as they likely have have good advise as well.

Lastly, are you planning on going to a Rally? If it's a WRC, I want RAWs of Hirvonnen and Atkinson tearing things up (one of Loeb catching fire would be nice too, but that's probably too much to hope for).

I don't think I would feel comfortable seeing a rally car coming straight at me at 200km/h. Most probably my photos would show the ground or the sky while I'm running around in panic, holding the camera in a cramping grip

Image stablization will help when hand holding the camera and taking a picture of somthing that is not moving. It is for camera shake and not for stopping motion.

bsawle wrote in post #3916602
Image stablization will help when hand holding the camera and taking a picture of somthing that is not moving. It is for camera shake and not for stopping motion.

gotcha, thank you!

I find that image stabilization does help me to be steady while panning with a long lens. It may not help you freeze the action but IMO it will help you keep it in frame.

poloman wrote in post #3921971
I find that image stabilization does help me to be steady while panning with a long lens. It may not help you freeze the action but IMO it will help you keep it in frame.

some good advice...from the little research that i have been doing it seems that the quicker iso you have the easier it will freeze the picture...

am i right?

also, is iso a way of setting the shutter speed, are they related? can you have a quick iso setting, but a slow shutter or is that not possible?

btw, i cant wait for this camera to get here.

tomdlgns wrote in post #3928503
some good advice...from the little research that i have been doing it seems that the quicker iso you have the easier it will freeze the picture...

am i right?

also, is iso a way of setting the shutter speed, are they related? can you have a quick iso setting, but a slow shutter or is that not possible?

btw, i cant wait for this camera to get here.

iso is like film speed, shutter speed is to freeze the action, and apature is for DOF basicly

You're in the right place to learn though

First off sorry if this is too basic. I'm still learning and teaching is the best way to learn so if I have explained something incorrectly please let me know and I will change it.

this is for shooting manual the M setting.

There are three different ways to affect the exposure that you can control in camera.

If your camera is set to ISO 200 meter a scene. lets say correct exposure is f8 at 1/60.

shooting a moving rally car at 1/60 the car is going to have motion blur. What you going to want to do is raise the shutter speed to freeze the action lets shoot for 1/500th.

first thing and quickest thing will be to lower the f-stop if we lowered it to f5.6 we could then raise the shutter speed to 1/125th of a second.

f8 -> f5.6 is one stop more light

1/60th -> 1/125th is on stop less light.

we are back at the same exposure that we started with with but the picture will have different properties. It will stop the action better and have a little less DOF.

I still want to have a faster shutter. I start to adjust my aperture but my aperture is as large as it can get on my lens. (100-400mm L at 400mm) Now I adjust the ISO to 400 and the shutter to 1/250th.

ISO 200 -> ISO 400 one more stop of light.

1/125th -> 1/250th one lest stop of light.

now we are back to an equal exposure of our original exposure settings of ISO 200 f8 1/60th.

one more adjustment to get us to 1/500th of a second.

ISO 400 -> ISO 800 one more stop of light

1/250th -> 1/500th one less stop of light

bingo we are in business.

so in recap.

ISO 200 f8 1/60th
ISO 200 f5.6 1/125th
ISO 400 f5.6 1/250th
ISO 800 f5.6 1/500th

they all will result in the same exposure result. The difference is in the creative side of things. 1/500th will stop a action pretty well.

So to answer your question ISO is a way of changing exposure giving you creative control to change either the f-stop or shutter speed.

Answering your second question. Yes you can have a high (quick) ISO speed and a slow shutter speed. You will run into this scenario shooting in low light.

You will generally want to use the lowest ISO you can and still achieve the the result you want.

I would prefer 1/1000th for a shot like the one posted. it really freeze the action and eliminate camera shake. I would then get at ISO 1600 and would have too much noise.

i need to read this when i go home today.