400D images vs 5D images

Try my previous rec...

1. 50mm lens
2. Av mode @ F/11-14
3. ISO100-200
4. Tripod (make sure everything is locked down)
5. Focus on something around 20ft away
6. Use self-timer for the release

Let's see what that gets us...

I have changed 'Image Editing' to OK. I am using a tripod and remote shutter release. Thank you for the mirror lockup suggestion. I will try it the next time I go out.

Hopefully this doesn't distract too much from trying to get the original image out of the camera sharper, but for what it's worth here what I could do with this image.

Original (Resized for web):

Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE

Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE

It does seem pretty mushy, you haven't tried to clean the sensor with something have you?

Good tweaks for web use. Still, I share zucchini's concern over the lack of native (in-camera) sharpness.

Mirror lockup does eliminate camera shake. If that improves your images, maybe the issue is your tripod; or at least how you're using the tripod.

Milkbone73, that looks nice! can you send me the full size image?

I have cleaned the sensor but only with an air bulb and a sensor brush.

My recommendations:

1. Don't use the Quantray lens. Use your 50mm f/1.4 or get a better lens.

2. Shoot in RAW, so you have better control over white balance (WB is often overlooked in landscape work, but it makes a huge difference in colors). You will also have greater control over saturation, etc. You can make all of these adjustments with your free copy of DPP that came with your camera!

3. Most people feel that mirror lock up doesn't really matter very much, but

4. A steady tripod is a must. Either use the timer or buy a remoter shutter release off of ebay for less than $10.

5. Don't forget a circular polarizer where appropriate to bring out those clouds, etc.


I shoot with an XT; your XTi is very capable of producing good images!!

Good luck!!!

Of course if you've never had a sharp photo from this camera, its certainly possible the problem is the camera itself. Sensor alignment? Focusing error? Other issues? Granted this is unlikely...

For most purposes, mirror lockup does little. For extreme macro or long zooms, every little bit helps.

klynam wrote in post #3964144
Of course if you've never had a sharp photo from this camera, its certainly possible the problem is the camera itself. Sensor alignment? Focusing error? Other issues? Granted this is unlikely...

The OP's particular XTi has some sort of weird sensor that might have some misalignment with the sensor filter or something??? I dunno....maybe But I do know that the XTi isn't inherently something to blame: lens usually is the main factor for sharpness. Here's a high ISO photo I took with my XTi and 70-200mm L lens. Lens means a lot. The XTi isn't as good as the 5D for high ISO noise....but it's no slouch either.

unprocessed, ISO 800, F2.8 even!:

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'text/html' | Byte size: ZERO

Here are three images that I took at different apertures. The camera was on a tripod and I used a remote shutter release.

125mm, ISO 100, Tv 1/13, Av 8
http://www.zandecki.ne​t/samples/img_7085.jpg

125mm, ISO 100, Tv 1/4, Av 13
http://www.zandecki.ne​t/samples/img_7089.jpg

125mm, ISO 100, Tv 0.5, Av 20
http://www.zandecki.ne​t/samples/img_7094.jpg

zucchini wrote in post #3964641
Here are three images that I took at different apertures. The camera was on a tripod and I used a remote shutter release.

Looks pretty good to me! So for the other photos that are more OOF, who knows if it was the particular FL and aperture with that lens.....or some sort of camera shake or something or other. At least we can rule out your camera sensor as a candidate for softness!

yep look good to me too - that lens is definitely sharper in the middle, as most are. I still want to see some w/ the 50mm

I am fairly new to this, and have found that disabling the auto focus points (unless where A-DEP, or some other reason is needed) and only using the center, or other specific one, helps in focusing correctly and sharply too. Here is where your camera decided to foucs for you, not sure if that is what you inteded or not. You are also at the widest, and likely softest end of your lens. Drive mode was also set to continuous shooting, not sure how this works with the remote shutter release you were using?

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That makes sense about the focus points. I am not sure how autofocus works when it uses multiple points. What does the camera do in this case? Try to average everything out and hope that it is in focus?