Mike
My understanding is that DPP will show the active focus point square in RED. So lets walk this thru. You pick a person and put the center focus point on his EYE. Holding the button down steadily, you recompose so that the eye is not in dead center any longer, then finish pressing to fire the shutter. When the shutter fires, the red focus point is actually on his shoulder (or whatever). The eye should be in focus, but the red square has moved to the shoulder. DPP is only showing you what you did, as focus lock is only achieved once, as long as you keep steady pressure on the button. Pulse your finger, and the camera will refocus as if the original focus lock never occurred.
There are two potential problems with this method. Both these problems could be seen clearly if the eye of your subject (or whatever you selected as the original focus point) is not in focus.
1. You did it wrong. Meaning that you accidentally pulsed your finger onthe shutter button. Easy to do.
2. You did it right, but the eye is still out of focus. HUH? This is actually fairly easy to do. If you are using a thin DOF (large aperture- indicated by a small aperture number), as you recompose, you are changing the angle of the line of sight, thereby either increasing or decreasing the distance between the camera and the subject. If the change in distance is more than your DOF, you can knock out the focus of the subject.
There is some math involved here, but think it thru. Stand in front of a wall. If you walk straight ahead, the distance between your nose and the wall is 6 feet (for example). If you walk to a corner of the wall, it could take you 7 feet or more to get there. Now apply that to the camera. It focussed originally and very precisely on a target 6 feet away. By changing the angle, but not changing the focus, your subject is now 7 feet away, and thus out of focus.
I hope this is helpful to you