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Thread started 29 Sep 2007 (Saturday) 01:25
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Oh crap!!! Help!!!

 
René ­ Damkot
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Sep 29, 2007 11:31 |  #16

Mark_Cohran wrote in post #4031510 (external link)
there was an article written not long after the Arctic Dry Brush cleaning system was introduced that discussed how to convert an art brush to a cleaning brush.


That article I linked to ;)


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Mark_Cohran
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Sep 29, 2007 11:32 |  #17

The article I mentioned is the one René Damkot linked to in his post above. It's worth a read.


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Mark_Cohran
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Sep 29, 2007 11:33 |  #18

René Damkot wrote in post #4031524 (external link)
That article I linked to ;)

Yep. Sorry, didn't follow your link. I was simply trying to address the idea on using a non-treated brush on the sensor. :)

Mark


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Nick_C
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Sep 29, 2007 12:24 |  #19

Mark_Cohran wrote in post #4031510 (external link)
Gents, for those of you suggesting it wasn't the brush, there was an article written not long after the Arctic Dry Brush cleaning system was introduced that discussed how to convert an art brush to a cleaning brush. One thing the article made very clear is that there is a significant amount of oil and "sizing" which I guess is some sort of fixative used in the production of the brushes that must be removed before using an art brush anywhere near the sensor. The article show examples of streaking on clear glass when using a brush that hadn't been thourougly cleaned using their recommended processes. It seemed pretty clear to me that an art brush was nothing I wanted near my sensor.

Since the OP got a smear, it most likely came from the brush as a particle already existing on the sensor would have just moved around rather than caused a smear which has to be the result of some sort of oil or other sticky material.

Suggesting that it was simply something already on the sensor may give rise in the casual reader of these forums that using an art brush is an acceptible method of cleaning when it certainly isn't recommended.

Mark

Its possible it could be the brush if it wasnt a good quality one, I have some very good quality brushes here & if I pass them over a uv filter there is absolutely no grease coming out of the brush.

Dust isnt always dry, I often get little specs of dust on my glasses which when wiped away leave a greasy smear forcing me to use the cleaning solution, this is the main reason why a rocket blower wont budge them, its because they are greasy.




  
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racketman
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Sep 29, 2007 12:30 |  #20

couple of passes with a digi-pad swab wetted with 2 drops of Eclipse fluid - about £28 for 12 swabs and the fluid from Warehouse Express. If you live near Richmond Upon Thames I could do it for you.


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Nick_C
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Sep 29, 2007 12:32 |  #21

racketman wrote in post #4031706 (external link)
couple of passes with a digi-pad swab wetted with 2 drops of Eclipse fluid - about £28 for 12 swabs and the fluid from Warehouse Express. If you live near Richmond Upon Thames I could do it for you.

Ive become a bit weary now of that fluid after reading posts on here saying it removed the tin oxide coating on the sensor plate.

Hardly the sort of thing you want to read about :(




  
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Glenn ­ NK
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Sep 29, 2007 13:02 |  #22

René Damkot wrote in post #4031057 (external link)
Also, have a read here (external link).

Thanks for the link - it's now in my favourites under Photography/Sensor Cleaning.

For some reason, I've never seen that article by Petteri - after reading it, I'd say that it is very thorough and well thought out.

I might just give it a try - either the makeup brush or the art brush. Many people have used the brush method and swear by it, with a few dissenters. It might be that the dissenters didn't follow the methodology carefully.

Incidentally there is a regular poster over on dpreview by the same name, and his posts are usually thoughtful and well though out - like his website. Seems to be the same guy.


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Nick_C
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Sep 29, 2007 13:23 |  #23

One problem with using a brush which ive seen posted before is that when you brush the plate that covers the CCD, you could pickup grease from nearby areas, mechanisms etc.. adding to the problem greatly.

Dust is a damn annoyance, even Canon's self cleaning doesnt solve the problem, ive seen lots of posts saying it only removes some of the dust.

It doesnt help when you see reports of these so called solutions which are guaranteed to be safe to use removing the tin oxide coating, it makes it hard to know what to purchase.




  
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Coops
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Sep 29, 2007 13:35 |  #24

richy5497 wrote in post #4030050 (external link)
My problem is i don't have the money to send it to Canon for a clean, it'll cost around £50-£80, which at this time of year with kids and christmas, i just don't have. I feel really stupid for wiping it with the brush.

I took this pic of the frezer door to illustrate sensor dirt. You can see the smear to the right:
www.rgbrowne.co.uk/sto​rage/temp/smear.jpg (external link)

If its still in warranty Canon (watford) or any serivice centre will do one clean for free! Also Canon only charge 25 quid for a clean. I know Ive used em several times.


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richy5497
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Sep 29, 2007 14:10 as a reply to  @ Coops's post |  #25

Oh happy Days :)

IMAGE NOT FOUND
Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE

A pristine A4 sheet taken with a sparkly 350D that survived a "brush" with death!

EDIT: I see one spec on it LOL

Lessons well and truly learned here:
DON'T TOUCH THE SENSOR!
Blow it out with a Rocket blower and a vacuum nearby underneath bit not touching the camera. This actually works really well!
DON'T TOUCH THE SENSOR!!!
The lenspen was a bit awkward to see while doing it, but it worked a treat!

Thanks to everyone who assisted me and gave me advice. I'll be a little more careful in future.

Richy...

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Nick_C
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Sep 29, 2007 14:16 |  #26

richy5497 wrote in post #4032030 (external link)
Oh happy Days :)

A pristine A4 sheet taken with a sparkly 350D that survived a "brush" with death!

EDIT: I see one spec on it LOL

Lessons well and truly learned here:
DON'T TOUCH THE SENSOR!
Blow it out with a Rocket blower and a vacuum nearby underneath bit not touching the camera. This actually works really well!
DON'T TOUCH THE SENSOR!!!
The lenspen was a bit awkward to see while doing it, but it worked a treat!

Thanks to everyone who assisted me and gave me advice. I'll be a little more careful in future.

Richy...

Is this what you used?

http://www.7dayshop.co​m …h=777_1&product​s_id=27871 (external link)




  
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number ­ six
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Sep 29, 2007 14:16 |  #27

Nick_C wrote in post #4031713 (external link)
Ive become a bit weary now of that fluid after reading posts on here saying it removed the tin oxide coating on the sensor plate.

Hardly the sort of thing you want to read about :(

That wouldn't be an issue with the OP's 350D, though. I think I've read of two cases where a 5D's oxide coating was damaged by Eclipse. I haven't heard of any other camera model having a problem - have you? I'm interested in this because I'm planning on getting a 40D...

-js


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Nick_C
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Sep 29, 2007 14:20 |  #28

number six wrote in post #4032049 (external link)
That wouldn't be an issue with the OP's 350D, though. I think I've read of two cases where a 5D's oxide coating was damaged by Eclipse. I haven't heard of any other camera model having a problem - have you? I'm interested in this because I'm planning on getting a 40D...

-js

Now that you mention it, no I have only heard of this happening with the 5D.

I wonder what solution 5D users should use then, its a bit of concern when a top product like that turns out to be no good.




  
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number ­ six
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Sep 29, 2007 14:30 |  #29

Last time I looked, Photographic Solutions reversed themselves and recommended the original Eclipse for the 5D. It was sorta suggested that the sensor problems were due to manufacturing defects, not cleaning. A quick look at their site doesn't produce that particular reference, though...

-js


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Nick_C
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Sep 29, 2007 14:53 |  #30

number six wrote in post #4032079 (external link)
Last time I looked, Photographic Solutions reversed themselves and recommended the original Eclipse for the 5D. It was sorta suggested that the sensor problems were due to manufacturing defects, not cleaning. A quick look at their site doesn't produce that particular reference, though...

-js

Hmm maybe good ole fashioned soap & water is best :p




  
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