Snowboard season coming up, i have a couple of questions

That's because you are going from a super humid hot to a very humid cold.

In the winter in the northern latitudes or mountains, the moisture in the air outside is so low that there is very little moisture to condense on the camera and lens in the sealed bag. Many people (me included) have to humidify the indoor air to get it up anywhere over 20% relative humidity. that is vastly different from a sub tropical environment as you describe.

J.

ooooo ok thanks, now i get the cold to hot thing

la canon amateur wrote in post #4121525
You need to use the zip locks going from hot to cold environments and cold to hot. Either way you can get condensation on the lens and the body of the lens. In extreme cases it can take up to 15 minutes to clear up. Especially in humid environments. I experience it all the time here in Louisiana, especially when I am offshore. I always keep several of the silica moisture absorbent packs in my camera bags next to my lenses. My 100-400 L gets wet quite often on the outside of the barrel. Actually have to dry it off. Often have to clean the lens with a liquid lens cleaner due to moisture patterns (esp. when using a rocket blower to clear it quicker) left behind after the fog clears.

No, you don't.
When going from hot to cold, nothing is going to happen.
JonhJ80 explained it nicely.

Yes Hermeto and JonHJ80 are correct. Sorry I may have confused you earlier. As far as I know its only from cold to hot (hot being anything significantly warmer then cold). Better to be safe then sorry. You might get this going from outside into the cafe etc.

In summer, you may get that going from air conditioned café, to hot and humid outside air..

it is a problem whenever the camera body temp is lower than the dewpoint and you bring it into a warmer environment that (presumably) has some humidity.

J.

Camera will be completely fine as long as water does not leak into the bag.

One thing you should consider is buying a Sandisk Ultra 3 or 4 memory card which are designed for sub 0 temps

My XT worked just fine with SanDisk Ultra II at -25 Celsius.

Hermeto wrote in post #4125167
My XT worked just fine with SanDisk Ultra II at -25 Celsius.

correct.

I've gone even colder than that and had no problems.

The difference between the FLASH parts that are spec'ed at commercial temp range (0-70C) and industrial temp range (-40-+85C) is simply testing. It is the same semiconductor die off of the same wafer and it is then tested to see if it meets the wider temp range.

Having been involved with getting these parts screened for avionics applications, I can tell you that a very high percentage of these parts past the wider temp range. The reason the manufacturers don't test them all at that range is that cold testing is a pain in the neck on a tester (moisture/condensation issues etc...).

What that means is that pretty much any part has an extremely high likelihood of operating at colder than 0C and probably down to -40C with no problem.

J.

JohnJ80 wrote in post #4126702
correct.

I've gone even colder than that and had no problems.

The difference between the FLASH parts that are spec'ed at commercial temp range (0-70C) and industrial temp range (-40-+85C) is simply testing. It is the same semiconductor die off of the same wafer and it is then tested to see if it meets the wider temp range.

Having been involved with getting these parts screened for avionics applications, I can tell you that a very high percentage of these parts past the wider temp range. The reason the manufacturers don't test them all at that range is that cold testing is a pain in the neck on a tester (moisture/condensation issues etc...).

What that means is that pretty much any part has an extremely high likelihood of operating at colder than 0C and probably down to -40C with no problem.

J.

In another words, you can consider shooting in extremely cold conditions successful if, after it’s finished, you still have the same shape, colour and number of fingers, and perhaps, a couple of shots..

Just seal the camera in a bag when you come in from the cold, and you'll be fine. By the time you thaw out, get undressed, have a shower, and something to eat, the camera will be ready to remove from the bag.

I shoot snowcross 10 weekends a year in some pretty nasty cold, and have yet to have a problem with anything other then battery life being much shorter then during the summer.

Hermeto wrote in post #4127564
In another words, you can consider shooting in extremely cold conditions successful if, after it’s finished, you still have the same shape, colour and number of fingers, and perhaps, a couple of shots..

nah - the gene pool is tougher here. Cold? What cold?

J