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Thread started 14 Oct 2007 (Sunday) 17:28
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Unsharp Focus Issue, is it my ap & shutter combo or too much movement?

 
capturedexpressions
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Oct 14, 2007 17:28 |  #1

I am noticing more and more that my focus is not 100% sharp on my focus point and I'm trying to pinpoint why. I didn't notice it before but I haven't had my camera (30D) serviced either. I shoot Manual and often use the lightest setting on both so maybe they will not sync properly that way. (60 at f/4)

Any advice?


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tim
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Oct 14, 2007 17:36 |  #2

Best post a picture to show us what you mean.


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Tish
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Oct 14, 2007 21:18 as a reply to  @ tim's post |  #3

Definitely post some pics--pref link to full resolution shots. And are you tracking which cameras/lenses you're using when it happens? If not, go back and look.

I was able to figure out that I had one 20D failing by noticing "soft" images all tracked back to that camera, regardless of which lens I used. But more times than not, you're dealing with camera shake or user error. :) We can't tell without seeing what you see.


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restech
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Oct 15, 2007 00:03 as a reply to  @ Tish's post |  #4

Sometimes if you use center focus and you re-compose after half-click, it would make your picture a tiny bit off focus.
That's my own experience.
Try to play around with that thin (move it to the right or the left, depending on your object) and see what would happen


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capturedexpressions
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Oct 16, 2007 12:20 as a reply to  @ restech's post |  #5

Here is one example


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GertS
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Oct 16, 2007 13:29 |  #6

For me it seems a bit back focusing. But the whole picture is not sharp. It's definitely not motion blur.


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Curtis ­ N
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Oct 16, 2007 14:04 |  #7

Let's see a 100% crop of this area.


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imchillindave
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Oct 17, 2007 14:06 |  #8

What lens are you using? To me it seems to be an issue of lens quality.


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bnlearle
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Oct 17, 2007 20:03 |  #9

Since you're manually focusing, I would say it's you. The leaves look more in focus so that shows that the lens is definitely capable of focusing correctly. Try comparing your MF shots to some AF shots and see if there's a difference.


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capturedexpressions
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Oct 17, 2007 23:48 |  #10

bnlearle wrote in post #4143650 (external link)
Since you're manually focusing, I would say it's you. The leaves look more in focus so that shows that the lens is definitely capable of focusing correctly. Try comparing your MF shots to some AF shots and see if there's a difference.

Actually I was on Autofocus. I use a the 17-55 IS in AF and put the focuspoint on his face. I did notice that the FP would jump off as I was holding it half way and then when I hit is fully, I seen the FP (red square) move. Here is another one.


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capturedexpressions
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Oct 17, 2007 23:59 |  #11

capturedexpressions wrote in post #4144898 (external link)
Actually I was on Autofocus. I use a the 17-55 IS in AF and put the focuspoint on his face. I did notice that the FP would jump off as I was holding it half way and then when I hit is fully, I seen the FP (red square) move. Here is another one.

Here it is... I hope.


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capturedexpressions
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Oct 18, 2007 00:07 |  #12

capturedexpressions wrote in post #4144933 (external link)
Here it is... I hope.

See if it worked this time, if not, I'm giving up! :oops:


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imchillindave
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Oct 18, 2007 00:42 |  #13

I checked a lens comparison chart and this lens isn't a very sharp lens, especially compared to the 24-70 2.8L, which is what I would've bought instead of this one because they are near the same in price.
Under your gear you have a 20D as well as a 30D. Does this lens yield the same results on that body as well or is it only on the 30D? I would do some comparison shots and see what happens. If it's the same on both, I'd be willing to bet what you're seeing is the poor quality in a cheaper lens, thus being the reason I buy nothing but L-series lenses anymore.

BTW, that last picture you posted is much too small to see the detail in.


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Rick ­ Rosen
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Oct 18, 2007 01:23 |  #14

Digital and especially Canon will always require sharpening in post processing to get a noticeably sharp image. With Canon this is due to the anti-aliasing filter that sits in front of the sensor. With digital in general it is a technical challenge related partially to the design of the light path through the optics (angular) VS the receptive path of the sensor (straight on).

Try using "smart sharpen" in Photoshop. I tested and found that 200% at 1 pixel produced a nicely sharpened image. Filters > Sharpen > Smart Sharpen > 200%

Rick


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Phil ­ V
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Oct 18, 2007 02:12 |  #15

imchillindave wrote in post #4145115 (external link)
I checked a lens comparison chart and this lens isn't a very sharp lens, especially compared to the 24-70 2.8L, which is what I would've bought instead of this one because they are near the same in price.

There's shed loads of happy users here that would disagree with that statement. We'd all love the L build quality on a 17-55 2.8, but optically it has nothing to be ashamed of.
And it might be near in price to the 24-70, but try explaining to the customer that you missed off half the group because your lens wasn't wide enough (butyou got it cos it's a better quality lens);).
We buy the best tools we can to get the job done, and for crop shooters the best lens is the 17-55, the 24-70 just isn't wide enough.
BTW, I'd like to see a link to the test you quoted, as it flies in the face of everything else I've read.

To the OP, the first pic you posted was mis-focussed, the 2nd? it's impossible to tell at that size. Maybe a 100% crop from that pic.


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Unsharp Focus Issue, is it my ap & shutter combo or too much movement?
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