Cheers babe
dgcorner wrote in post #4155767
Very nice Warren! #1 for me is great!
Thank John, my own favourites are 1, 3 4 and 5 - with 5 being my new desktop
Mediation wrote in post #4156271
Tyne Bridge
Love the look of steal and its connections. My favourite.
THanks mate, had a few others too, but for some reason didn't convert them from RAW, a shame about some loose looking light flares.
FlexiPack wrote in post #4156441
Wow never seen Newcastle like that, looks great. Fantastic shots Warren.
I don't own a 1D - what's the landscape sharpness setting you mention?
Thanks,
Re: Picture Styles: (I'm pretty sure I was in Landscape, otherwise I shoot Standard)
For users who don't want to be bothered with post processing, there is a ‘Standard’ setting within the Picture Styles mode that helps to produce images that look crisp and vivid with the sharpness set to mid-scale and the color tone and saturation set to obtain vivid colors. In the ‘Portrait’ setting of the Picture Styles mode, the color tone and saturation are set to obtain nice skin tones with the sharpness set one step weaker than the Standard setting so the skin and hair look softer. Under the ‘Landscape’ setting of the Picture Styles, the color tone and saturation are set to obtain deep blues and greens, the sharpness is set one step stronger than Standard so the outline of mountains, trees and buildings look more crisp.
Such as the second pic for example - you can see the jagged lines, so almost oversharpened, but at least it pops
bryanj87 wrote in post #4156908
That's quite a nice series. Very nice shots. I don't think we have anything like that here in the states (that I'm aware of).
Thank you 
jtull01 wrote in post #4156918
I like them all. Good technique. Interesting perspective, covers the topic well.

jdizzle wrote in post #4157782
Love these Warren. I'm always having trouble with doing shots like the Tyne bridge you have posted. Where did you meter to make sure you don't blow out the highlights from the oncoming traffic? Just curious. Thanks.
I always use Manual, and overall metering mode, and naturally compensate for the scene. If a car is approaching, such as a race track with headlights on, you'll need to shoot it probably 2/3 overexposed, otherwise you'll get a dark image. Just comes with practice and more practice. Never use spot metering, just compensate for what I'm shooting with, by guessing the relative difference in exposure between the darks and lights. Again, chimp and check histogram too. I'm on a laptop in the UK, I got no idea how the levels appear, but on camera LCD they look fine, and similar on the laptop - I've never been a good photoshopper, so rather shoot as good as possible out of camera, and not touch up.