Upgraded from a 20D to a 40D - VERY Dissapointed.

I do not understand...all my photos with my 20D were sharp and I was just using the cheap kit lens (28-135 IS), now I have a 40D and a $1,000 lens, then 24-70L and my images are soft in the middle and all over for that matter. I always use the center AF point when shooting...whats going on? here are some unedited center crops from the middle of a few photos.

1/125 @ 2.8, ISO 800

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Have you tried your old lens on the 40D? You may want to do a more controled test with a better subject such as a focus chart or some batteries. Make sure you are using a tripod and remote release (or timer release) also MLU is a good idea to help eliminate any camera shake.

In the second pic, the bolt does not appear in focus but that would be a difficult situation for the camera's auto focus to know exactly where you were focusing....It looks like it focused on the area of contrast in front of the bold

jra wrote in post #4241468
In the second pic, the bolt does not appear in focus but that would be a difficult situation for the camera's auto focus to know exactly where you were focusing....It looks like it focused on the area of contrast in front of the bold

but i used center AF point, put it right on where the top of the bolt meets the side of the bolt.

no, i havent tried my old lens, because i sold it with my 20D to get money to buy the 40D.

::: connor

The problem is not the camera but the lens. Try it at f4

crobs808 wrote in post #4241544
but i used center AF point, put it right on where the top of the bolt meets the side of the bolt.

no, i havent tried my old lens, because i sold it with my 20D to get money to buy the 40D.

::: connor

Keep in mind that the autofocus sensors are somewhat larger than the indicators we see in the viewfinder. When multiple areas of contrast are covered by the sensor, you may not get exactly what you wanted. In a situation where the areas of contrast are located very close together, as in your second photo, it's almost impossible to tell in the viewfinder if you nailed the focus exactly as you wanted it. Also, were you handholding these shots? Small body movements as you breath and keep your balance while using a large aperture can and will move your focus point.

dmwphoto wrote in post #4241568
The problem is not the camera but the lens. Try it at f4

I agree, the 24-70 really sharpens up when stopped down a stop or two but I think he should be getting better results at f2.8. Larger apertures can be a bit tougher to work with because a slightly missed focus will really show up due to the narrow DOF.

OH - I also have the image mode thing on Faithful, 0,0,0,0, since I figured all editing should be done in post...am I wrong, should I change it back to the default that was 3,0,0,0 i think? which is the best to put it on? I think it is dumb they added that feature.

::: connor

Well you are going to need to get a bit scientific to try to narrow things down. Time to try to see where the problem is - I'd start with using tripod and remote release or timer. Try your Sigma 30 at 2.8 and 4 versus your Canon lens at 30mm 2.8 and 4. Try a focus test chart (do a quick search to find links to them) from 45 degree angle; failing that line up some AA batteries about an inch apart each. I'd put setting at standard if you're using jpg just to keep it consistent with how you used your 20D. Try manual focus also to see if any difference.

It seems that the two pics were shot in dim light situation, and the problem is "blur" not focus. Try to use tripod in this case and remote release. 2 pics are not enough to judge..

eveningSight wrote in post #4241861
It seems that the two pics were shot in dim light situation, and the problem is "blur" not focus. Try to use tripod in this case and remote release. 2 pics are not enough to judge..

That's a good point. It doesn't really look like front or back focusing. From the first picture, it looks like the bolt is in the DOF. But in the cropped image, nothing is really sharp. It doesn't look like there is some other area that is in better focus (like in front of or behind the bolt). The whole image is just soft, not focused on the wrong spot.

That could still be the camera, though, but maybe a tripod and better lighting could give better results.

Good luck.

[edit: then again, at 1/125 you would need a pretty shaky hand to get that much blur... were you standing on your head?? ]

I doubt it is the lens or motion blur, as you could see it even in the "overview shots, the sides of tree trunk and bolt would be blurred.

Agreed. The whole image is soft in both shots. I doubt it is the lens, too, as 24-70 should be tack sharp in the center, even at f/2.8, and even at this shutter speed.

It looks like hand shake to me. You probably got used to the IS on the other lens which is more forgiving. The 24-70 is an amazing lens with great quality but it also picks up every flaw in both subject and photographer. It is also a very heavy lens and takes some getting used to. Place the camera on a tripod and use your timer or a remote to take some pics to see if something is wrong with the lens or not.

I cannot tell about the first shot because there is not enough information, but I am pretty sure that the second one is user error.
Since the sensor area is larger than the mark on the focusing screen, camera focused on the vertical board edge because it has more contrast than the bolt.

Both examples are not well chosen: as already mentioned before, test should be repeated in a more controlled setting.

The 20D is an excellent camera with great IQ. I wouldn't expect much more IQ from the 40D than the 20D. I agree with Hermeto and imagine the camera is fine.

My 24-70L sucked until I sent it back to Canon for calibration.

Then it was great.

Try swapping lenses and see what happens.