IN CAMERA SHARPEN ON 1D MARK IIn???

How many of you use the in camera sharpen? I had it up 3/4 of the way to full and some images came out oversharp after running batches in PS 3? What do you think should it be on at all and if so how much??? I shoot mainly sport type material.
The first has only in camera sharpen.

I don't own a Mark-something-or-other, but I can tell you that I have my 20Ds set to max sharpen. I found I was adding sharpness in 100% of my photos, so I decided to let the camera do it and save me a step in post.

RVsForFun wrote in post #4253255
I don't own a Mark-something-or-other, but I can tell you that I have my 20Ds set to max sharpen. I found I was adding sharpness in 100% of my photos, so I decided to let the camera do it and save me a step in post.

I thought USM or SS was a required step in PP

I don't add any sharpening on any cameras, I like to control that in post. I use PhotoKit Sharpener, it has a 3 step workflow, and provides a very fine degree of control with layers.

Stephen Scharf wrote in post #4253775
I don't add any sharpening on any cameras, I like to control that in post. I use PhotoKit Sharpener, it has a 3 step workflow, and provides a very fine degree of control with layers.

Im with you. I feel that PS sharpens better than the camera does so I just let it get taken care of later. It doesnt add all that much time anyways

AdamLewis wrote in post #4253785
Im with you. I feel that PS sharpens better than the camera does so I just let it get taken care of later. It doesnt add all that much time anyways

Agree completely. What's a few extra seconds for better image quality? Besides, I use high pass sharpening, not USM or in camera.

AdamLewis wrote in post #4253785
Im with you. I feel that PS sharpens better than the camera does so I just let it get taken care of later. It doesnt add all that much time anyways

Ok but if I am running batches with like 500 pics in it there will not be any variance as far as what each shot requires? So say it is 90 2 8 and that looks ideal. If I am jumping F's from 2.8 on up to say 8 it will not alter much from image to image??
THANKS

liza wrote in post #4253845
Agree completely. What's a few extra seconds for better image quality? Besides, I use high pass sharpening, not USM or in camera.

Elizabeth,
Sorry high pass sharpen, what is it???
Thanks

downhillnews wrote in post #4253847
Ok but if I am running batches with like 500 pics in it there will not be any variance as far as what each shot requires? So say it is 90 2 8 and that looks ideal. If I am jumping F's from 2.8 on up to say 8 it will not alter much from image to image??
THANKS

First off, let me say that Im completely ignorant of the technical workings of how sharpening in-camera or in Photoshop works.

That being said, I dont believe that PS discriminates between that F number the image was taken at when it applies sharpening. I also dont believe that the camera does either.

So, I dont think it really matters. I think they both blindly apply sharpening to pixels and have no regard for any other information.

downhillnews wrote in post #4253856
Elizabeth,
Sorry high pass sharpen, what is it???
Thanks

Im curious as well...

I use Kevin Kubota's "Custom High Pass" action for sharpening. It utilizes the high pass filter for sharpening.

Example:

Byte size: ZERO | Content warning: NOT AN IMAGE

Stephen Scharf wrote in post #4253775
I don't add any sharpening on any cameras, I like to control that in post. I use PhotoKit Sharpener, it has a 3 step workflow, and provides a very fine degree of control with layers.

Same here!
I found PK Sharpener to be the best for my workflow.

Both OP images look over sharpened, IMHO.

Highpass:

Duplicate layer
filter>other>highpass
Enter a radius (Play with the numbers anywhere from .5 to 2)
Now in the layers pallette you have three boxes there click the expand arrow were it says Normal and select overlay. I also use Vivid a lot. Now click the Opacity slider and drag it back and forth. Flatten when you are done. Create an Action for this and it is very fast.

I do a small amount of sharpening in DPP or C1 Pro, and the rest in Photoshop. I typically apply less sharpening in Photoshop than many here, with my settings being around 30%, 0.3 pixels and 3 for the threshold. I adjust on a per image basis. I also use the smart sharpen filter as part of my standard workflow - converting to LAB mode to do this to avoid fringing affects from sharpening etc..

Dave

AdamLewis wrote in post #4253949
So, I dont think it really matters. I think they both blindly apply sharpening to pixels and have no regard for any other information.

It doesn't if you're batch sharpening. If you're taking the time to adjust on a per-image basis on the computer then obviously it's better to leave sharpening at a low level in-camera.