Custom functions Long exp. noise reduction

custom functions Long exp. noise reduction setting by turning it on will it help in taking pictures at night of lightning. Using the basic Rebel 350D or IT What settings would you consider to be the best for taking pictures at night of lightning. Tryin got work my way out of this green zone.. I still miss the 35mm.

The noise reduction option will double your exposure time because it will take a second "dark frame" for the same amount of exposure time in order to subtract out the non-random noise.

For lightning, try using manual exposure with a lens wider than 35mm and start with
f5.6 at ISO 100
f8 at ISO 200
f11 ISO 400
Use BULB mode and hold the shutter open until you catch a few lightning strikes.
You'll need a sturdy tripod, remote shutter release and a dry, safe location.

I wouldnt even bother with the in camera noise reduction. Just make sure you use low ISO and you shouldnt have too much noise. You will end up missing too many good shots because you have to wait for your camera to finish its process. If you STILL end up with too much noise you could always use Noise Ninja or Imagenomic Noiseware Pro.

Just like my old 35mm... Keep the lens open and hope for the best. If this settings is a hassel why do they put it their in the 1st place.

Its useful in some applications. Also, some people print right from their camera. Also, some people dont have access to noise reduc. software.

johnstownwildfire wrote in post #4305745
Just like my old 35mm... Keep the lens open and hope for the best.

Exactly. Some things just don't change.

If this settings is a hassel why do they put it their in the 1st place.

Because it actually works rather well. The alternative is to take a few dark frames manually and subtract them out in post-processing, however, this is only efficient when you use a one or two fixed exposure times. Won't work in the case of lightning when your exposures times will be different for each and every shot.

One other thing - this noise reduction doesn't work on random noise, only on things like hot pixels, amp glow, etc. These can be a pain to remove in post processing so it can be worth the extra exposure time.

JackProton wrote in post #4305680
For lightning, try using manual exposure with a lens wider than 35mm

May I ask why wider than 35mm?

martinsmith wrote in post #4306157
May I ask why wider than 35mm?

Its just a good starting point IMHO due to the random nature of lightning strikes and the sheer potential size of it. You can get a good shot if the lightning is very close OR if its on the distant horizon whereas with a telephoto, you have to make some good guesses where they'll be a strike and risk missing a lot of the action if you guess wrong.

Here's a good starting point. Then tweak the settings as you get comfortable.
http://www.wvlightning​.com/ptips.shtml
I use any focal length, ALWAYS ISO@100, and f/2.8 - f/16; 1/4 sec - 25 sec depending on ambient light. Tripod is recommended at all times, but I have shot up to 4.5 seconds handheld before, remote shutter cable or wireless is also preferred. All of that means nothing if you don't have the correct framing. You need to scout out positions well in advance to avoid power lines, houses, trees, etc (they can be added to the picture if done correctly though). Please be aware of your surroundings and learn how to chase properly if you are to keep doing this. I'm one of the best here in Florida and I have been entirely too close to being struck on several occasions (within 50ft of the main branch) so you can never be too careful. Have fun!!!

Rick