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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Digital Cameras 
Thread started 13 Nov 2007 (Tuesday) 06:24
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Using canned / compressed air on canon sensors

 
hwyhobo
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Location: Silicon Valley
     
Nov 13, 2007 12:25 |  #16

xarqi wrote in post #4306910 (external link)
Earth just called - she wants her ozone layer back.

http://www.epa.gov …6/June/Day-04/pr-728.html (external link)

Relevant quotes:

1. 1,1-Difluoroethane has been designated by the EPA as a substance
about which it has little concern regarding its ozone-depleting
potential and is listed as an acceptable substitute for certain uses of
currently used ozone-depleting propellants. 1,1-Difluoroethane is now
used in consumer products (e.g., hair sprays, baby oil mousse, spray
bandage, rug shampoos and oven cleaners).
2. An acute rat toxicity study which showed no mortality when
animals were exposed to 1,1-difluoroethane at concentrations up to
200,000 ppm, indicating that the substance is essentially non-toxic
following acute inhalation exposure.
3. A chronic rat inhalation toxicity study with exposures for 6
hours, 5 days/week for 2 years, with a no-observed-effect-level (NOEL)
of 27,000 mg/M3 and LOEL of 67,500 mg/M3 based on mild
reversible renal effects.
4. A rat inhalation developmental toxicity study with pregnant CD
rats exposed to concentrations of 0, 5,000 or 50,000 ppm for 6 hours/
day on gestation days 6 through 15 showing no treatment-related
maternal or fetal effects at any dose level, indicating that 1,1-
difluoroethane is not a developmental toxicant at dose levels of equal
or less than 50,000 ppm.
5. A human (volunteers) study reported no adverse effects except
for reversible analgesia and feelings of impending loss of
consciousness after acute inhalation exposure to 500,000 ppm of 1,1-
difluoroethane.
6. 1,1-Difluoroethane is approved under 21 CFR 178.3010 by the
United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as an indirect food
additive (e.g., blowing agent in the production of polystyrene articles
which come in contact with food).




  
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Potisdad
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Nov 13, 2007 13:23 as a reply to  @ hwyhobo's post |  #17

What about taking compressed air and diffusing it through the miraculous new Gary Fong Whale Tail? This would allow you to balance the key air and and fill air, preventing dust falling into the shadows...


David

  
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vic6string
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Nov 13, 2007 13:30 |  #18

I've had my XTi since around March, and have yet to clean it, and don't really plan to. I don't know if the dust shaker thing actually works, but I have yet to see anything negative. I think too many people go looking for dust, because they feel that they need to have a perfectly clean sensor or their pictures will be too gruesome to bear (since pixel peeping at 200% is mandatory). I shoot mainly from F7 down, and seldom if ever print bigger than 8X10. At those DOF's I would need something like a roach living on my sensor to make an impact. If I ever feel the need to shoot clouds at F16 and blow the pictures up to billboard size, I may pick up a cleaning kit.


Rebel XTi, 430ex, Tammy 28-75, nifty fifty, kit lens, tons of reading, not enough practice, and two gorgeous subjects (my kiddies)

  
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JWright
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Nov 13, 2007 13:32 as a reply to  @ post 4308256 |  #19

Obviously Dust-Off doesn't consider use on camera mirrors as serious as Century does. They put the warning in fine print at the bottom of the caution box, where it's almost impossible to find...

That said, I've been using the stuff on my cameras for years, including blowing off my sensors (after I went digital). I use a very light touch, hold the can upright and move the camera over the nozzle. I never move the can because that can cause the release of the propellant gas in liquid form, which isn't a good thing at all.

Whether someone uses any of the canned gas products on thier sensors is a matter of personal choice. It works fine for me so I'll continue to do it.


John

  
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Nov 13, 2007 13:35 |  #20

xarqi wrote in post #4306910 (external link)
Earth just called - she wants her ozone layer back.

I've had no experience with these products. Are there any "safe" ones, environmentally, that is?

This one: http://www.harborfreig​ht.com …yitem.taf?Itemn​umber=1102 (external link)

The problem with bulb blowers is the lack of volume, IMO. Short blasts don't work as well as a steady stream - and I have difficulty pointing the blower accurately while squeezing it.

I plan to get this aerosol can and fill it from my air compressor using a ball-type water/dust filter. (This filter is about the size of a handball and is intended for use on an automotive paint spray gun.)

-js


"Be seeing you."
50D - 17-55 f/2.8 IS - 18-55 IS - 28-105 II USM - 60 f/2.8 macro - 70-200 f/4 L - Sigma flash

  
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Jim_H_WY
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Nov 13, 2007 13:38 as a reply to  @ hwyhobo's post |  #21

At the risk of being burned at the stake...

I don't recommend that anyone use "canned air" products on their DSLRs. There are many ways one could cause problems by using these products.

The dangers are:

You might blow too hard on the shutter or mirror or some other delicate or delicately mounted part and knock it out of alignment or blow it clean out of the camera.

You might dispense some of the liquid which could attack plastics or worse yet, remove or damage the coating(s) on optical surfaces such as the front filter over the sensor. Or, since the liquid will be wanting to boil once it's out of the can, you might suddenly lower the temperature of one part of something so fast that it may crack from the thermal stress. (Turn a can of this stuff upside down and it makes excellent "freeze spray").

You might blow dust in under the front filter so that you can never get to it.

It's also good to avoid using it on lenses or the back of your eyepiece because again, you may very well blow the dust into the lens or eyepiece area where you won't be able to get to it without totally disassembling the lens or camera. It's better to just wipe dust off of the outside of a lens with a damp (not wet) cloth and you can clean the eyepiece with a cotton swab slightly moistened too.

I often wonder if some people who report dust inside of their (for example) EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS may have actually blown it in there by using "Canned Air" to try to dust off the outside of the lens - anyhow....

OK, having said all of that:

I frequently use "Canned Air" to blow out my DSLRs. I do it right before a wet cleaning of the sensor and I do it again as the final step. It's much more convenient and easy to control than using a squeeze blower.

I use a light touch, make sure NOT to use a new can (so the liquid level will be down low enough to preclude dispensing of the liquid) and I don't tip the can. I keep the nozzle well back from sensitive items, but when you're in sensor clean mode, the mirror is flipped up against the focusing screen and the shutter is open.

It works like a charm and I've never had a single issue. I suspect I've done this at least a hundred times, probably more like 200 for my 20D. And I've done it a couple of times for the 40D.

The main thing is, I just do it carefully and I accept the possibility of damage if I do it in a boneheaded way. One of the advantages of using "canned air" (Mine's 1,1 Difluoroethane) is that you can use it easily and carefully - if you're careful...

:arrow: OK, Disclaimer:

None of you should ever try this for the very reasons I stated at the beginning of this post. Only I possess the finesse necessary to do this successfully ;)

Either that, or I'm the luckiest person on earth.

Let the beatings begin :)


Jim_H_WY

  
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Glenn ­ NK
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Nov 13, 2007 13:48 |  #22

Jim_H_WY wrote in post #4308683 (external link)
OK, having said all of that:

I frequently use "Canned Air" to blow out my DSLRs. I do it right before a wet cleaning of the sensor and I do it again as the final step. It's much more convenient and easy to control than using a squeeze blower.

I use a light touch, make sure NOT to use a new can (so the liquid level will be down low enough to preclude dispensing of the liquid) and I don't tip the can. I keep the nozzle well back from sensitive items, but when you're in sensor clean mode, the mirror is flipped up against the focusing screen and the shutter is open.

It works like a charm and I've never had a single issue. I suspect I've done this at least a hundred times, probably more like 200 for my 20D. And I've done it a couple of times for the 40D.

The main thing is, I just do it carefully and I accept the possibility of damage if I do it in a boneheaded way. One of the advantages of using "canned air" (Mine's 1,1 Difluoroethane) is that you can use it easily and carefully - if you're careful...

:arrow: OK, Disclaimer:

None of you should ever try this for the very reasons I stated at the beginning of this post. Only I possess the finesse necessary to do this successfully ;)

Either that, or I'm the luckiest person on earth.

Let the beatings begin :)

I really don't agree with you at all until the past the point stating "OK, Disclaimer".;););)

Well I agree about doing it carefully. I tried a bulb blower - what a waste of time and money. With every "in breath" the bulb sucks in more ambient air so it can deposit fresh dust on the sensor.:lol:


When did voluptuous become voluminous?

  
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Picture ­ North ­ Carolina
THREAD ­ STARTER
Gaaaaa! DOH!! Oops!
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Nov 13, 2007 13:50 |  #23

vic6string wrote in post #4308643 (external link)
I've had my XTi since around March, and have yet to clean it,

... and my wife's xti is the same. I think I could remove the lens and scoop sand off the beach with that camera and none would obstruct the sensor. Darned miracle if you ask me.

However, what the OP was targeting is the cleaning of my 30D and 5D, the later seeming to have a magnet strong enough to attract dust from the moon. /Dan


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xarqi
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Nov 13, 2007 16:38 |  #24

Excellent information, thank you. I must have been confused between fluorinated hydrocarbons and CFCs, so false alarm.




  
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Using canned / compressed air on canon sensors
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