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Thread started 03 Dec 2007 (Monday) 19:41
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DIY Vivitar trigger voltage modification

 
adrenalnjunky
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Dec 27, 2007 23:20 |  #31

I did put R1 in the hotshoe - sorry - I think the OP had mentioned he did that, so I followed suit. I removed the original wire lead, and soldered one end of R1 to the contact, and then tucked it into a little bit of empty space in the corner. Then I promptly melted the hotshoe when I kicked my heat gun up too high while trying to get my heatshrink to shrink. I had to re-melt it and form it back into it's approx. shape and pray it would attach to the flash properly. I got lucky. Other than that, there isn't any more space in there for anything else, without pulling out the dremel, and at that point, I'm afraid it would lose some integrity and you might risk having the mount itself break.


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lauderdalems
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Dec 27, 2007 23:44 |  #32

I've been using a Vivitar 283 on Rebel XT and 40D hotshoe without any problems...Am I asking for trouble?


http://gamedayphotos.u​wa.edu/ (external link)

  
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b1gdaddy
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Dec 28, 2007 06:43 |  #33

adrenalnjunky wrote in post #4580894 (external link)
I did put R1 in the hotshoe - sorry - I think the OP had mentioned he did that, so I followed suit. I removed the original wire lead, and soldered one end of R1 to the contact, and then tucked it into a little bit of empty space in the corner. Then I promptly melted the hotshoe when I kicked my heat gun up too high while trying to get my heatshrink to shrink. I had to re-melt it and form it back into it's approx. shape and pray it would attach to the flash properly. I got lucky. Other than that, there isn't any more space in there for anything else, without pulling out the dremel, and at that point, I'm afraid it would lose some integrity and you might risk having the mount itself break.


Lol maybe I was the one who got lucky as I managed to squeeze it in!!

lauderdalems wrote in post #4580981 (external link)
I've been using a Vivitar 283 on Rebel XT and 40D hotshoe without any problems...Am I asking for trouble?


It may be ok as some models have a very low voltage but check your trigger voltage with a multimeter. Some people quote a max of 250v on the hotshoe of the XT/350D but I will not take the chance.




  
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lowcrust
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Dec 28, 2007 07:21 |  #34

lauderdalems wrote in post #4580981 (external link)
I've been using a Vivitar 283 on Rebel XT and 40D hotshoe without any problems...Am I asking for trouble?

Are you sure you don't have the (newer) Vivitar 285HV?


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lauderdalems
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Dec 28, 2007 08:09 |  #35

lowcrust wrote in post #4582250 (external link)
Are you sure you don't have the (newer) Vivitar 285HV?

This is a 283 that I' ve had for over 20+ years.


http://gamedayphotos.u​wa.edu/ (external link)

  
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SolidxSnake
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Dec 28, 2007 09:40 |  #36

b1gdaddy wrote in post #4582143 (external link)
It may be ok as some models have a very low voltage but check your trigger voltage with a multimeter. Some people quote a max of 250v on the hotshoe of the XT/350D but I will not take the chance.



They're quoting it wrong though. From what I have read all around, ALL of Canon's cameras use 6V Hotshoe voltages. The 20D (I and I believe the rest of the xxD series) use 250v PC sync sockets, but that's irrelevant to the hotshoe on the 20D as well as the ###D series (as the ###D series cameras don't even have PC Sync).


Troubleshooting 101 (see also: LightRules,perryge):
1) RTFM.
2) Repeat Step 1.

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Wilt
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Dec 28, 2007 09:46 |  #37

SolidxSnake wrote in post #4582852 (external link)
They're quoting it wrong though. From what I have read all around, ALL of Canon's cameras use 6V Hotshoe voltages. The 20D (I and I believe the rest of the xxD series) use 250v PC sync sockets, but that's irrelevant to the hotshoe on the 20D as well as the ###D series (as the ###D series cameras don't even have PC Sync).

OTOH, I have read statements about the hotshoe having the same spec sync voltage as the PC socket, too.


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SolidxSnake
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Dec 28, 2007 09:55 |  #38

Wilt wrote in post #4582888 (external link)
OTOH, I have read statements about the hotshoe having the same spec sync voltage as the PC socket, too.


I'm pretty sure that someone actually got a response from Canon saying the hotshoe takes 6V or lower. I know for a fact the Powershot G series is like this, so I guess it's to be taken with a grain of salt. As far as I know there's no confirmation for any of their dSLR cameras, so either the cameras could be said to take 6V because they follow suit with the Powershot G series, or they could be said to take higher because they're bigger cameras and have room for more circuitry to handle higher volts


Troubleshooting 101 (see also: LightRules,perryge):
1) RTFM.
2) Repeat Step 1.

Gear ~ DeviantART (external link) ~ My Heatware (external link)

  
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b1gdaddy
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Dec 28, 2007 10:37 |  #39

SolidxSnake wrote in post #4582852 (external link)
They're quoting it wrong though. From what I have read all around, ALL of Canon's cameras use 6V Hotshoe voltages. The 20D (I and I believe the rest of the xxD series) use 250v PC sync sockets, but that's irrelevant to the hotshoe on the 20D as well as the ###D series (as the ###D series cameras don't even have PC Sync).

The fact that Canon will not clarify things does not help matters. Better safe than sorry.

lauderdalems wrote in post #4582413 (external link)
This is a 283 that I' ve had for over 20+ years.

Check it with a multimeter then, at this age it could have a very high trigger voltage. Instructions are here >>>>> http://www.botzilla.co​m/photo/g1strobe.html (external link)

EDIT: Use fresh batteries to test voltage & fire the flash at full power a couple of times before the test.




  
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Wilt
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Dec 28, 2007 11:39 |  #40

SolidxSnake wrote in post #4582947 (external link)
As far as I know there's no confirmation for any of their dSLR cameras, so either the cameras could be said to take 6V because they follow suit with the Powershot G series, or they could be said to take higher because they're bigger cameras and have room for more circuitry to handle higher volts


Re: For Chuck Westfall/trigger voltage on 1D mkII [Re: JuliValley] #248688 - Thu Jun 24 2004 02:23 PM Edit Reply Quote Quick Reply
"The trigger circuit voltage (TCV) rating for any EOS digital SLR is the same on the
hotshoe as it is on the PC terminal (if the camera has one), but the acceptable TCV level
varies according to the camera model. For EOS-1D, EOS-1Ds, and EOS-1D Mark II, acceptable
TCV is 250V. For EOS D30, D60, 10D and Digital Rebel, acceptable TCV is 6V.
Incidentally, the main reason for the difference is the way the X-sync signal is
generated. With the 250V cameras, the X-sync signal is generated electronically. With the
6V cameras, the X-sync signal is generated mechanically. It would be great to have
electronic X-sync in all EOS digital SLRs, but electronic X-sync costs more. I have no
idea how much more, because Canon Inc. isn't talking about it.
Regardless of the explanation, sync filters like the Wein safe-sync are a good idea when
using non-dedicated flashes with a 6V camera. --------------- Chuck Westfall Director/Media & Customer Relationship Camera Division/Canon U.S.A., Inc. "


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SolidxSnake
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Dec 28, 2007 11:46 |  #41

Wilt wrote in post #4583507 (external link)
Re: For Chuck Westfall/trigger voltage on 1D mkII [Re: JuliValley] #248688 - Thu Jun 24 2004 02:23 PM Edit Reply Quote Quick Reply
"The trigger circuit voltage (TCV) rating for any EOS digital SLR is the same on the
hotshoe as it is on the PC terminal (if the camera has one), but the acceptable TCV level
varies according to the camera model. For EOS-1D, EOS-1Ds, and EOS-1D Mark II, acceptable
TCV is 250V. For EOS D30, D60, 10D and Digital Rebel, acceptable TCV is 6V.
Incidentally, the main reason for the difference is the way the X-sync signal is
generated. With the 250V cameras, the X-sync signal is generated electronically. With the
6V cameras, the X-sync signal is generated mechanically. It would be great to have
electronic X-sync in all EOS digital SLRs, but electronic X-sync costs more. I have no
idea how much more, because Canon Inc. isn't talking about it.
Regardless of the explanation, sync filters like the Wein safe-sync are a good idea when
using non-dedicated flashes with a 6V camera. --------------- Chuck Westfall Director/Media & Customer Relationship Camera Division/Canon U.S.A., Inc. "


So theoretically I could toss my Vivitar 283 on my hotshoe with no ill effects?


Troubleshooting 101 (see also: LightRules,perryge):
1) RTFM.
2) Repeat Step 1.

Gear ~ DeviantART (external link) ~ My Heatware (external link)

  
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Wilt
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Dec 28, 2007 11:57 |  #42

SolidxSnake wrote in post #4583543 (external link)
So theoretically I could toss my Vivitar 283 on my hotshoe with no ill effects?

So the quoted post would have you believe, for your 20D and 100v trigger Vivitar!


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SolidxSnake
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Dec 28, 2007 12:12 |  #43

Wilt wrote in post #4583618 (external link)
So the quoted post would have you believe, for your 20D and 100v trigger Vivitar!



Thing is, is that for sure? Not questioning you, but the credibility of a random post on the internet isn't too trustworthy to me :)


Troubleshooting 101 (see also: LightRules,perryge):
1) RTFM.
2) Repeat Step 1.

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b1gdaddy
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Dec 28, 2007 14:51 |  #44

SolidxSnake wrote in post #4583687 (external link)
Thing is, is that for sure? Not questioning you, but the credibility of a random post on the internet isn't too trustworthy to me :)

The real question is whether you are prepared to gamble a $500+ 20D on the quoted 250v ;)




  
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crosseyed
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Jan 27, 2008 23:58 |  #45

I am using this flasher on my canon 350d with no modifaction, can it damage my camera?


Canon 50D + 17-55 2.8 + 50mm 1.8 + ex430

  
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DIY Vivitar trigger voltage modification
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