STICKY:  -=FAQ=- EOS FAQ -=READ FIRST=-

Welcome to the EOS FAQ thread.

Here you will find many answers to the most commonly asked questions regarding the EOS cameras and systems.

Please take the time to search through the links in this section BEFORE posting a new thread.



SECTION I: CAMERA INFORMATION
[INDENT]-=FIRMWARE UPDATES=-

-=Canon EOS Error Messages: An explanation and understanding=-

-=Are You Shooting HAMSTTR©?=- Why you should shoot to the right!

-=EOS Fanboy's Unite!!=-

-=Dark Spots? Blobs in your photos? READ FIRST=-

-=EXTERNAL LINK Canon Europe's article on Sensor Cleaning=-

-=All About Canon's Auto Focus Sensors=-

-=Front / Back Focusing DSLR? Dare to repair yourself!?=-

-=How to test for front/back focus (Pekka's Post re: 10D ) =-

-=Replace a Broken LCD Protector ( 5D )=-

-=ERR 99 Troubleshooting=-

-=Attach the E-1 Hand Strap=-

A: SPECIFIC MODELS INFORMATION

The 5D3 Review Thread

T3i/600D Announced

Official Canon EOS 1D MkIV

Official T2i/550D

7D FAQ THREAD and Directory sticky.

-=40D Live View Functions Thread=-

-=Gut your EOS 1 Series!!=-

-=1D Mark III Info Link Thread=-

400D/Rebel XTi Firmware hack - enables ISO 3200, Spot metering!

-=350D/Rebel XT Info Thread=-

-=350D/Rebel XT Top Tips!!=-

-=20D Info Thread=-

-=Hack Your 300D/Rebel=-

-=Getting the most from EOS 1 DSLR (must read!)=-

-=1DS MkII Announced + WiFi transmitter=-

-=Photo solutions response on using Eclipse fluid with EOS400D=-

SECTION II: LENS INFORMATION

-=Top Ten=- Member recommended lens section.

-=Deciding on your next lens? - READ THIS FIRST=-

-=Teleconverters De-Mystified=-

-=Lens Adapters =- Adapt Non-EF lenses to your EOS digital

SECTION III: EQUIPMENT DISCUSSION AND INFORMATION

-=EOS Equipment Reviews=-

-=EOS Flash Info thread=-

-=How ETTL-II Flash Works=-

-=Auto Focus in Low Light Canon CPS=-

-=Things to Check when you bring a new Camera Home=-

-= Choosing a Tripod. One man's quest=-

-= Sensor Cleaning Thread=-

-=CROP FACTOR=- 10,000 posts on the X-Factor

-=TeeJay's WFT-E1 How-To=-

SECTION IV: ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

-=Ben's Newbie Guide to Digital SLR Photography-=

-=All the Best EOS Links=-

-=TOP Tips for EOS Photography=-

-=Understanding your camera’s built-in metering system =-

User Settings and Custom Functions Threads

-=EOS 5D Mark II - User Settings and Custom Functions=-


-=EOS 1D Mark III - User Settings and Custom Functions=-

-=EOS 1D Mark II - User Settings and Custom Functions=-

-=EOS 20D - Best CUSTOM FUNCTIONS and Settings=-

-=EOS 10D - User Settings and Custom Functions=-

-=ARTHUR MORRIS ON USING AI SERVO AND C.FN-04 =-

-=The CFN #4-1 Thread=-

Still more on sensor cleaning

Canon Parts Catalogs.

All About Canon's Auto Focus Sensors.

I am not an expert but I play one on the internet...

Facts:
1.
Canon has four terms its marketing department uses to describe its AF sensors. High precision, Cross Type, Sensitive (vertical or horizontal), and Regular Precision.

2.
A sensor that will work up to f5.6 also works all the way to f2.8. One that works up to f2.8 is BETTER than one that STARTS at f5.6 for its sensitivity. Some people want f8 sensitive. I would not want it.

Ok now that you are familiar with Canon's terms let look at what the cameras offer.

350D = No cross type or High precision sensors.

30D = Only the center point is Cross type & High Precision. That is two things. The others are just like the 350D.

40D = Only the center point is Cross type & High Precision. The others are Cross Type with their sensitivity beginning at f5.6. In other words they are not Canon's best but better than before.

1D Mark III = 19 Cross Type & High Precision AF points beginning their sensitivity at f2.8! Now that is a Camera!!!


Please STUDY these:

20D
http://www.canon.com/c​amera-museum/tech/report/200​409/report.html

5D
http://www.canon.com/c​amera-museum/tech/report/200​509/200509.html

30D
http://www.canon.com/c​amera-museum/tech/report/200​603/report.html

XTi
http://www.canon.com/c​amera-museum/tech/report/200​609/200609.html

1D Mark III
http://www.canon.com/c​amera-museum/tech/report/200​703/200703.html

I asked chuck westfall about any tips for microadjustment on mark3 since the manual is super vague about it and here was his response -- he has given me permission to publish it online here however he will most likely have this answer on his techtips one day:

-----Original Message-----
From: cwestfall@cusa.canon.c​om

Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 15:42:23
To: egexxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [digitaljournalist.org​] Tech Tips

There is no "official" Canon- recommended method for setting AF Microadjustments with the EOS-1D Mark III or EOS-1Ds Mark III other than what's written in the Instruction book. So I hope you won't mind an unofficial set of recommendations from me:

• Set the camera for Large JPEG at Level 8 compression (the default setting) or better in the Neutral Picture Style and set in-camera sharpening to at least Level 5.
  
• Use a sturdy tripod and a remote switch and/or the camera's self-timer. With or without the remote switch, I recommend using mirror lock together with the self-timer.
  
• Make sure the camera is set for One-Shot AF with the center focusing point manually selected.
  
• If you're using an IS lens, shut off the stabilizer.
  
• If you're using a zoom lens, shoot at least two sets of test images; one at maximum focal length and one at minimum. Alternatively, if you plan on using a specific mid-range focal length, perform a test at that setting.
  
• Conduct your test in reasonably bright light. If you're shooting indoors, position the camera near a window on a bright day if possible. If artificial light is all you have, make it as bright as you can, within reason.
  
• Select a detailed, flat-surfaced, inanimate subject that is large enough to cover the spot metering circle on the focusing screen, and make sure that is positioned at the same height as the camera and as parallel as possible to the camera's focal plane. DO NOT use an angled test chart. DO NOT tilt the camera up or down. DO NOT swivel the camera so that it is at an angle to the subject. In other words, position the camera at the same level as the subject and as parallel to it as possible.
  
• For telephoto lenses, position the camera approximately 10 to 15 feet from the test subject. For standard focal length or wide-angle lenses, position the camera roughly 7 to 10 feet from the subject. (Avoid shooting at or near the closest focus setting on the lens.)
  
• Shoot at maximum aperture in the camera's manual mode, and adjust the shutter speed until you are satisfied with the exposure level. Use the camera's built-in meter as a starting point, but don't be afraid to raise or lower the shutter speed if necessary to achieve an accurate exposure.
  
• Before each exposure, intentionally set the distance scale to infinity or close-focus before autofocusing, so that you're always getting a fresh AF reading from the camera.
  
• The first set of test shots should include 3 to 5 exposures at a +10 microadjustment setting, 3 to 5 exposures at a 0 microadjustment setting, and 3 to 5 exposures at a -10 microadjustment setting.
  
• Examine the images at 100% pixel magnification on a high-quality computer monitor. If the shots at 0 microadjustment are sharply focused, no further adjustment is necessary. If the shots at 0 microadjustment are out of focus, check +10 and -10 microadjustment images to see which direction looks better.
  
• Repeat the test procedure at different microadjustment settings until you are satisfied with the results.
  

If you end up registering any microadjustments, it's a good idea to record your settings to a spare memory card using the procedure outlined on pages 182 and 183 of the EOS-1D Mark III instructions. I would also recommend writing them down in a notebook or spreadsheet as a further backup.

Hope this helps, and please let me know if there are any further questions. Thanks for reading Tech Tips!

Best Regards,

Chuck Westfall
Director/Media & Customer Relationship
Camera Marketing Group/Canon U.S.A., Inc.

so there ya have it folks....

http://digitaljournali​st.org …ves/columns.htm​l#westfall

-=FAQ=- EOS FAQ -=READ FIRST=-

I specialize in photographing birds in flight and I make a living teaching others how to do the same. One of the techniques I use I call bumping the focus. This technique is often mis-understood and I get alot of questions about it. I just finished a lengthy answer to a question in another thread, so I thought it would be usefull to post my answer here as well where it would be easier for folks to find in the future. Here it is:

There are three different uses for the bump focus technique. I will try to explain each of them below. By bumping I simply mean letting off the focus and then refocusing quickly.

1. The first reason to bump the focus is to prefocus. The first task when photographing a BIF is to aquire it in the viewfinder and focus on it. It is beneficial to be able to do this as quickly as possible. When using long focal lengths, the bird may be so out of focus that you can't see it in the viewfinder even if it's there. Then when you do get it in the viewfinder it may take much longer to focus on it if the foicus is set to a drastically different distance. To overcome these issues, I will prefocus at the approximate distance that I anticipate for my subject. Then when the subject arrives, I can find it and focus on it quickly. I prefocus the camera by pointing the camera at something at the desired distance and then I focus on it. Now I'm ready for a BIF at a similar distance. If I need to switch the distance I will simply point the camera at something at the new distance and bump the focus. This will prefocus the camera at the new distance. Photogs that use a tripod will often prefocus manualy. Since manual focus is difficult hand held with big glass, I use the bump to prefocus.

2. When I am tracking a BIF against a varied bg and I miss and focus on the bg I will bump the focus to quickly return focus to the bird. Bumping the focus overrides the delay set by the tracking sensitivity custom function. Iset this tracking sensitivity to slow to get thelongest delay possible. This heelps when you are focused on the bird and want to avoid focusing on the bg, but it hurts when focussed onm the bg and you wantg to return focus to the bird. Bumping the focus overrides the delay.

3. This is the most important use of the bump technique. Most photogs will aquire focus on a bif and then try to continously maintain foucs while they are tracking and watching the bif in the viewfinder. They tend to focus continuosly waiting for the moment they wish to make a photograph. Often while watching, tracking, and waiting for the moment, the photographer will miss and focus on the bg. This is extremely easy to do when the bif is flying against a varied bg. This is the reason it is so much more difficult to photograph BIF against a varied bg as opposed to smooth sky bg. When the focus grabs the bg, then the photographer needs to re-aquire focus on the bif. This may take too much time causing the photog to miss the critical moment. I try to avoid this by only focusing on the BIF when I'm sure I'm on target and during the critical moments when I'm acualy making images. So, what I will typicaly do is aquire the bif initial and focus on it. Then I will let off the focus and just watch it in the viewfinder while tracking it visualy only. As the distance changes, the BIF will start to go out of focus. When that happens I bring it back in focus by quickly making sure the AF point is on the biurd and then I bump the focus to get it in focus again. I do this repeatedly as I'm visualy tracking the bird. When the BIF gets to the spot I want to start making pictures, I wil focus and shoot all at once. I shoot in short controlled bursts trying to time the critical moments with the best wing positions, etc. Because I have bumped the focus along, the focus is very close to where it needs to be when the moment to make pictures arrives. Then when I focus and trip the shutter it happens very quickly. If I tried to focus constantly while the bif approached I would likely miss, focus on the bg, and miss the critical moment. My goal is to keep the bird close to in focus and in the viewfinder without focusing on the bg and to do this up until the critical moment arrives. Then I try to maintain the focus while making great pictures. Bumping takes lots of practice, but if you develop this skill, it will make your keeper rate go way up.

TooManyShots wrote in post #5645834
Thanks. I do have couple of questions on the metering mode during BIF shots. I tried couple today. My 1d markii and 400L F5.6 seem to able to match the focus of the bird fine. However, my exposure is way off. Bird was underexposed. My bg is the sky. I was using spot metering at the time. The sun was overhead.

I think that the very first step in BIF photography is to shoot in manual mode. It is almost a requirement for shooting bif against changing backgrounds. I have been asked about using manual mode before so here is a snip from another thread where I answered a similar question.
---------------
There's much more to shooting in manual mode than just turning the dial to M and playing with the settings. I think it is actualy easier to learn to make consistantly good exposures in M mode than it is in any of the auto modes, if you learn M mode initialy. If you learn in Av mode, than you sort of have to unlearn Av mode before you train your brain completely in M mode.

To make consistantly good exposures in manual mode I do the following:

1. Choose a constant in the environment that is generally available to use as a base measure for metering. For me, in FL, this is usualy a deep green vegetation. The important thing is that it's usualy available.

2. I fill the frame with the constant while looking thru the viewfinder. The constant needs to be in the same light that I anticipate the subject being in. (I'm using full frame evaluative metering - EV)

3. I compare the subject to the constant to come up with an exposure compensation amount.

4. I dial in the exposure compensation amount I want by manipulating one or more of the three knobs that control exposure. This is done while filling the viewfinder with the constant in the same light as the subject will be in.

Now, if I have chosen the correct compensation amount, I should have the exposure that is correct until one of two things happens. 1. The light changes, or 2. The subject changes. When one of those two things happens, then I repeat 1-4 above. Use the histogram and flashing highlight alert to help you evaluate your exposures and adjust your compensation values.

Learning to select the appropriate compensation amounts is a matter of experience. Developing this experience in manual mode is much easier because you are constantly forced to evaluate how you have done and you have eliminated many of the variables that are involved with exposure compensation in other modes. Eliminating factors simplifies the process which is why it's easier to learn in manual mode. Manual mode also forces you to be more aware of the light and it's effect on your images. This will improve your photography in many ways.

What is "HAMSTTR"**© ?
"HAMSTTR"© ( Histogram And Meter Settings To The Right )
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...Is a more accurate term to describe what we really mean when we say we "Expose To The Right" or ETTR. (from this point on I will use only the term HAMSTTR. Suffice it to say, that the term is new, and prior to August 2009 the universally used term to describe HAMSTTR was "ETTR" )

A brief History of "HAMSTTR"©.

• In 2003 Michael Reichmann of Luminous Landscape fame, and early Digital Photography Pioneer, was conducting a workshop in Iceland attended by none other than Thomas Knoll ( Creator of Photoshop! )
  
  Thomas advised Michael to maximize the signal to noise ratio in Digital photography by adding what we call + EC (plus exposure compensation) while shooting RAW, and then if need be, using - EC during the RAW conversion to bring brightness levels back down to match the lighting at the time.
  Complete Article here;
  Expose to the Right - Maximizing S/N Ratio in Digital Photography
  
  
  
• Others had been seeing similar results, and very quickly word spread around that this was in fact a very effective technique.
  Further Reading:
  Roger Cavanagh, and early POTN Contributor on Expose to the right

• Total image information is increased as more of the histogram falls under that right most section.
  A 12 bit image is capable of recording 4,096 tonal values.
  The right most "stop" of the histogram (brightest) data contains 2048 of these steps — fully half of those available. Now we use 14 bit in modern DSLRs, but the effect of "HAMSTTR"© is the same.
  
  
• Noise is reduced as more of the image falls to the right side of the histogram.
  HAMSTTR will minimize the noise that potentially occurs in the darker regions of the image.

So far so good, now fast forward to August 2009 and a simple question regarding ISO settings posted on POTN results in a 20 page long debate re: use of the word "exposure"

In nutshell, some old school purists would have it that we can not include the sensitivity of our cameras digital sensors in the "exposure" equation, because the current dictionary definition refers only to three components, ( luminance, Aperture, and shutter duration) ...not four.
By this definition, even if your cameras meter and histogram say otherwise, a shot taken @
1/100, f/4, ISO 100 is in fact the exact same "exposure" as a shot taken
1/100, f/4, ISO 1600

From this Epic thread;
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=730218

By this definition the added sensitivity of the boosted ISO to 1600 does not alter the "exposure" but rather increases the brightness after the fact.

The trouble with this? Two fold:

1. It's true!
2. We simply do not use the word "exposure" that way! Call it "incorrect" but the all the terms we use, EV, EC ETTR etc.. where E stands for Exposure, in our camera metering system, all of these are affected by ISO, when in fact, but this standard, ISO has no impact on the "true exposure" as defined by Luminance, Shutter duration and aperture.

In practice however, with digital (and even in film) we always include the sensitivity of the media or (ISO setting) in our calculations to make the image,. just as our equipment does this. In fact, the two tools we rely on most, absolutely include the ISO setting , in fact can not be asked to ignore it. The Histogram and Meter are affected by the ISO setting.

All of this may seem self evident however the use of the word "exposure" in these terms seems to create a semantic paradigm.

Use vs. Definition

It was then suggested that a new term need be applied for the "other half" of our ETTR adjustments, the ISO settings. This term proffered is ITTR for "Iso To The Right"

This is fine to a point, however it draws a line that in practice the vast majority of us do not differentiate, or even recognize when shooting. It forces the use of Two Terms to do the same action, as that one action uses both techniques together, the ETTR and ITTR to push the Histogram and Meter to the right.

"HAMSTTR"© is a solution to remedy this cumbersome dichotomy.

HAMSTTR refers directly to the real world tools and setting we use to push "ETTR" and "ITTR"
We use the Cameras built in Meter and Histogram Settings to give us the "To The Right" adjustments.

For the vast majority, of ETTR shooters, HAMSTTR is what we've been doing all along. Combining both ETTR and the ISO push seamlessly in one set of adjustments to achieve one goal. An image pushed + EC to give us the most from our digital cameras and RAW files.

Further Reading on "HAMSTTR"©**

*In the following articles, please substitute "ETTR" and "Exposure" with "HAMSTTR©" and "Histogram and Meter" as all these guys are wrong.

Seriously though, these articles are MUST READ for new digital Photogs that have not been practicing HAMSTTR©, or even accomplished ones that have been but aren't sure why.

The following articles were written by some of the true pioneers of Digital imaging, hugely influential, even of you are familiar with all of there names, you've likely been following there advice for years, having been passed down now on forums by word of mouth.

Michael Reichmann on E (HAMS)* TTR July 2003
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorial​s/expose-right.shtml

Roger Cavanagh on E (HAMS)* TTR Circa 2003
http://www.rogercavana​gh.com/helpinfo/28_exp​oseright-1.stm

And it's early impact on POTN with some threads I found circa 2004;

Scottes On E (HAMS)* TTR:
https://photography-on-the.net …23&highlight=ex​pose+right

A Question re: E (HAMS)* TTR:
https://photography-on-the.net …d.php?p=148310#​post148310

* In the above links I substitute "HAMS" for E as apparently Michael and Roger etc. are like me and are did not realize that they can't say "E" since the meter is showing the "ISO" as well.

Discussion Thread;
https://photography-on-the.net …php?p=8534003#p​ost8534003

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** The term HAMSTTR© is copyright © CyberDyneSystems 2009

-=FAQ=- EOS FAQ -=READ FIRST=-

5D Broken LCD Protector Repair

As the title suggests this is a thread for the repair of a 5D LCD protector. But i guess the method would apply to all EOS DSLR cameras.

The LCD protector is the exposed piece of plastic at the back of your camera that sits flush with the body of the camera. The good thing about this design is that it can bear the brunt of a knock or impact and result in a £20 repair instead of £200 repair for a cracked LCD screen- ouch!

So there isn't too much guidance on this on the internet, there is a pretty good blog here http://blog.johnwurth.​com/?p=16 which is where i took the advice from but i thought if i post on here the people can ask me questions on the thread or via PM or talk amongst themselves.

Ok so here is the damage of the camera.

Next, preparing the new tape. You want to apply the tape camera side first, there is a little tab at the bottom to help peel the backing

Then take the screen from the film