Help! Problem with triggering flashes via wireless shutter trigger (self portraiture)

The problem I am having is that the off camera flashes are triggered (by a wireless radio shutter trigger) but something seems amiss. It's sometimes dark, as if the curtain is not synced is the flashes - my setting was in manual 1/60 and F5.6

The setup I have are some ebay triggers and a photix wireless shutter trigger for self portraiture.

Sometimes the flashes don't fire either so originally I thought it was the ebay triggers.

However the ebay triggers work 100% when I use the timer to trigger the shutter on the camera.

But this workaround doesn't work for me as I'm trying to pose with my newborn, which is very tricky timing

Is there a reliable wireless shutter radio trigger out there?

Two words: Pocket Wizard. Works every time, all the time (except for the poor guy posting on another thread who seems to have the first 2 bad PW's I've ever heard of).

They are far from being the cheapest, but how many times will you get a chance to capture that "once in a lifetime" shot of your baby?

You can also try this, which sounds like a simple solution that isn't too expensive. Not sure how well it fires external flashes, but I have heard it works well - you will still need a reliable radio trigger for your flashes:

http://www.calumetphot​o.com/item/CF0054/

Be advised that even Pocket Wizard Plus II's have limitations when used as remote triggers. They will only fire in one shot mode (as opposed to PW MulitMaxes which will fire a burst). Described here:

http://michaelbass.blo​gspot.com …h-pocket-wizard-plus.html

Actually the ebay triggers work out for me in this case - but the wireless shutter trigger seems to not fire the correctly, yes it triggers the shutter but the flash is out of wack - BUT if i used the in camera timer self trigger then the ebay triggers always have worked for me.

But yes i'm thinking of moving to Skyports instead of PWs

Just wondering what your thoughts on that as well.

I had a problem that sounds like this.

I wanted to fire the remote camera as I fired off another one in the normal way [for me] using the shutter button and the Plus II on the hotshoe of this camera.

I was triggering a 1DMKIIn remote with the appropriate motor drive cable and it would fire only from the test button. Having the master Plus II on the hotshoe of my master camera would only wake up the remote camera from the shutter button but not fire it.

If the remote camera's lens was put in manual focus, it would fire.
Also if I set Custom Function C.Fn 4/2 from its default of C.Fn 4/0 it would fire and it would AF and it would fire a burst as long as I held down the shutter button on the master 1D.

I did not get an answer from PW, seems like they don't or did not know. I don't really appreciate PWs answer in the Strobist article, if it's designed for Hasslebald, it should say so.


[QUOTE=dmwierz;4518632​]Be advised that even Pocket Wizard Plus II's have limitations when used as remote triggers. They will only fire in one shot mode (as opposed to PW MulitMaxes which will fire a burst). Described here:

Maybe this will help? From the PW Plus II manual, which is available here:

http://www.pocketwizar​d.com/HTML/manuals.asp​#

Relay Mode
You can trigger a remote flash in sync with your remote camera. This is called
relay mode and requires only 3 PocketWizards. Here is how it works:
• You press TEST on a PocketWizard that you are holding in your hands.
• The Plus II Transceiver connected to your remote
camera receives the signal and triggers your camera.
• The Plus II Transceiver switches to transmit mode,
one channel higher, and waits for the camera to
provide a sync pulse.
• The PocketWizard connected to your flash receives
the camera’s sync pulse and triggers your flash.

Relay Mode Setup
1. Set the master triggering PocketWizard
(the one in your hands) to Channel 1.
2. Set the Plus II Transceiver (the one for your remote
camera) to Channel 1 and set TRANSMIT MODE to BOTH.
3. Connect the Plus II Transceiver’s CAMERA / FLASH port to
the motor drive port of the camera.
4. Slide the Plus II Transceiver into your camera’s hot shoe.
5. Set the PocketWizard for your remote flash to Channel 2.
6. Connect your remote flash to its PocketWizard normally.
7. Turn everything on, then press and release TEST on the
PocketWizard in your hands to begin the sequence.

Be advised, though, that I believe this will still only fire in one-shot mode with the PW II Plus.

Here's something also to be aware of - it's called "pre-release". Here's more:

What does Pre-Release do?

In simple terms it "wakes up" the camera. In most newer electronic
cameras the meters and auto-focus systems do not operate until you
press the shutter release button down halfway. The time between the
moment the camera's button is fully pressed until the shutter is
actually open is called Lag Time and can change dramatically from
trigger to trigger. Inconsistent Lag Time is due to the electronics
inside the camera which take varying times to perform metering and
especially auto-focus functions. PreReleasing keeps the camera
"awake" all the time which is the same as continually holding the
camera's shutter release button down halfway. The Lag Time is
reduced and becomes more consistent as well. Consistency is even
further increased by setting as many of the camera's functions as
possible to MANUAL modes.

A drawback to this mode of operation (as stated above) is that the
battery life of the camera is extremely diminished. This is due to the
power required to keep the camera "awake."
If you simply trigger a camera via the motor drive port without
"waking it up" (the cable's switch is set to Normal) it will perform
the functions it is programmed to do after a brief delay. Some
auto-focus cameras can be programmed to fire only when they are in
sharp focus which, upon "waking up" the camera, can take a widely
varying time due to the mechanics of moving the lens.
Experimentation with your camera's autonomic functions is the best
way to determine an operation mode suitable for your situation.

Why a Pre-Release cable?

Some photographic events require a degree of precision in timing
that a varying Lag Time makes impossible to capture. There are also
times where the camera needs to fire remotely as fast as possible to
capture a speedy event. The Pre-Release cable gives you the
flexibility to have the camera operate more consistently, or where
this consistency is not an issue, to operate without consuming
batteries as quickly.

The photographic world seems to have forgotten that Quantum Radio Slave used to rule the world in the 90's and PW was an expensive upstart, in comparison. Quantum still offers their transmitter and receiver.

Wilt wrote in post #4521258
The photographic world seems to have forgotten that Quantum Radio Slave used to rule the world in the 90's and PW was an expensive upstart, in comparison. Quantum still offers their transmitter and receiver.

Man that unit is huge though! They arent much cheaper either. B&H wants $300+ for a set and $200+ for an additional unit.

Patterson Interfit = $117
Microsync = $97 + $130
Bowens = $148 x 2
Elinchrom = $185
Bowens = $275
Hensel = $275
Quantum = $337
PW Plus II = $189 x 2
PW Multimax = $295 x 2

and there is the questionable stuff via eBay

(Above prices current B&H)

It's easy to tell someone to go out and spend $380 on electronics. Much more difficult for the hobbyist to justify such an expense.

Foggy - I'm not familiar with the "photix wireless shutter trigger." If it operates on the same frequency as the radio flash trigger set, then perhaps it's triggering the flash with the camera, which would be premature. Have you tried different channels on the flash trigger set?

There are other, much more economical solutions. A PC cord would be a good investment. Anyone using off-camera flash should posess at least one, for backup purposes if nothing else. A simple, inexpensive optical slave sensor can be connected to either your Vivitar or your 580EX II (with the right adapter cord). You can put one flash on the hotshoe or connect it to a PC cord, and let the optical slave trigger the other flash. This would be a simple, reliable and inexpensive solution.

Wilt wrote in post #4522028
Elinchrom = $354

Huh?
Their El-Skyport Universalset is $184.95. Includes one transmitter and one receiver. You can get extra receivers for less than $100.

Curtis N wrote in post #4522100
Huh?
Their El-Skyport Universalset is $184.95. Includes one transmitter and one receiver. You can get extra receivers for less than $100.

I accidentally mentioned the kit which consists of: 1x Transmitter, 2x RX Receivers, 1x USB RX Transceiver, plus their respective accessories.

I believe your wireless remote works on the same freq/bands as the flash triggers get a cabled remote and hide it so it doesn't show in the shot.

Curtis N wrote in post #4522071
It's easy to tell someone to go out and spend $380 on electronics. Much more difficult for the hobbyist to justify such an expense.

Foggy - I'm not familiar with the "photix wireless shutter trigger." If it operates on the same frequency as the radio flash trigger set, then perhaps it's triggering the flash with the camera, which would be premature. Have you tried different channels on the flash trigger set?

There are other, much more economical solutions. A PC cord would be a good investment. Anyone using off-camera flash should posess at least one, for backup purposes if nothing else. A simple, inexpensive optical slave sensor can be connected to either your Vivitar or your 580EX II (with the right adapter cord). You can put one flash on the hotshoe or connect it to a PC cord, and let the optical slave trigger the other flash. This would be a simple, reliable and inexpensive solution.

I was thinking the same thing about the two systems possibly interfering with each other and was going to suggest setting the two systems on different channels, too.

Hey thanks guys! Sorry been so busy as of late - I'll give it a shot and change the channel on my wireless shutter trigger.