Is flash exposure just trial & error?

I have set up an off camera flash. 2 to be exact. One as key light and a second as a background/hair light. Here is my question:
How do I adjust the manual settings on my camera beforehand so I get a good exposure? I can't rely on the ambient light because it's low and with the flash I would be WAY over exposed.

I do a couple of test shots and adjust from there (though sometimes it's a big difference between what's on my LCD camera screen and my computer screen.) Is this normal procedure?

What I don't get is if I buy a light meter, do I hold it near my subject and set off the flash? Otherwise, I would just be metering for ambient light, right?

Any advice on this is appreciated.

It's absolutely not trial and error. Get a light meter, learn to use it. You will be good to go.

Meter for ambient, adjust flash to what you want +/- ambient. Verify with meter. The l358 with PW chip and wizards are the way to go here.

Axton wrote in post #4549462
I have set up an off camera flash. 2 to be exact. One as key light and a second as a background/hair light. Here is my question:
How do I adjust the manual settings on my camera beforehand so I get a good exposure? I can't rely on the ambient light because it's low and with the flash I would be WAY over exposed.

I do a couple of test shots and adjust from there (though sometimes it's a big difference between what's on my LCD camera screen and my computer screen.) Is this normal procedure?

What I don't get is if I buy a light meter, do I hold it near my subject and set off the flash? Otherwise, I would just be metering for ambient light, right?

Any advice on this is appreciated.

Yes, that's exactly how you would do it. But you will still be metering the ambient light which will register on the meter if it's strong enough.

Axton,

With most of today's meters, you have three options for using them with studio lights:
1) Plug a sync cord into the meter and push the button
2) Use the meter in cordless flash mode and trigger the lights some other way
3) Use a meter with a built-in PocketWizard transmitter to trigger the lights.

You set the shutter speed on the meter to match your camera, and the meter will give you the correct aperture, combining the ambient and flash at that chosen shutter speed. In most studio situations if you use a fairly fast shutter speed, the light will be essentially 100% flash.

Up in the top sticky in this section is a thread full of links to some online videos that walk you through the basics of studio lighting. At least one of them demonstrates how to use a meter. It's darn near idiot-proof to get the exposure right. What takes practice is knowing where to put the lights and what ratios to use. But a meter makes that easier, too.

I took quite a few portraits using trial and error before I got a meter. The more you do it, the easier it gets. A little common sense goes a long way. For instance, if you have two identical lights, one at 5 feet away and one at 7 feet, you know you'll get a 1-stop difference between them. Keep the inverse square law in mind as you experiment.

Trial and Error? You bet, that's exactly what it is. It's good to have a light meter to get ya in the ballpark. But after that, it's a matter of messing around until things look right. All this stuff about memorizing ratios etc is hogwash. Every shot is different and will require eyeballs to get it right.

There's an old cliche in the military that states "the plan is the first casualty of war." It's the same with photography. NO matter how well you know your equipment beforehand there is always going to be an unknown factor. Subjects will react differently to light. Meter readings will get you in the ballpark....but then it's a matter of trial and error after that.

Sorry, have to disagree with Unity Gain - flash photography, especially in a studio like situation, is very much a matter of math and science. Light is very consistent in its properties as are f-stops and shutter speeds. Computing your camera settings and ratios is math based on those light properties. I'd hate to think I spent all that money on my meter to just get me in the ball park. In practice it puts me dead on.

If working with more than one light, and / or mixing with daylight, I would say a good meter is essential - unless you have a laptop / printer available, with lots of time on your hands, and a patient model .

Also, a lot depends on how much white or black is in the photo and the compensation you need to make for this.

Titus, Unity and John E are all correct, and to a certain extent incorrect as well.

There are several varibles. But it really is not trial and error, nor is it guessing. Actually the meter if used properly will get you spot on for EXPOSURE. But the finer points of color, contrast, speculiarty and several other factors all with experience or taking a really good studio lighting class.

The type and style of lighting determine the way you use the meter. Some styles like Rembrandt, Butterfly and ring all use the meter facing toward the camera. Short, long or backlit may require using the meter toward the fill and then main to determine the split and make the "proper" exposure that way. Rim and sillhouette use the meter off of the backside of the subject and then off of the fill onto the subject to get it right.

Every photographer develops little cheats that they use, metering off of foamcore or an 18% grey card for some lighting styles. Highlights, negative fill, hairlights, and background lights all meter differently as well. You cannot do studio strobe lighting without a meter, unless you like excersises in frustration. You need a base constant to start with, then you calibrate your meter for the style you use most. Color of skin, hair and outfits may require some compensation to get the tone and color right (as opposed to "correct").

The best suggestion is for you to get into a studio lighting course to learn the in's and out's of exposure for studio use.

Les

I would assume not too many can see in 1/6th of a stop or 1/10th of a stop increments. Because good use of a light meter will usually dial within a 1/3 or 1/2 of a stop...but to fine tune from there a photographer has really gotta eyeball it.

Unity Gain wrote in post #4553065
I would assume not too many can see in 1/6th of a stop or 1/10th of a stop increments. Because good use of a light meter will usually dial within a 1/3 or 1/2 of a stop ...but to fine tune from there a photographer has really gotta eyeball it.

Use of most light meters of today will dial in 1/10 stop increments - to suit digital flash adjustments?

A light meter would probably lessen the number of shots taken. But I would instead invest on a quality lens than a light meter.

EDIT: Please don't quote me on this.. I might need a light meter soon.

steveathome wrote in post #4553519
Use of most light meters of today will dial in 1/10 stop increments - to suit digital flash adjustments?

Yes I know that...geez

OK ..from now on obey your light meter all the time...Don't question. Obey the meter. Geez

See how far that gets you on a few 20,000 dollar budget shoots with 4 assistants and 20 heads

Hey, no need to get upset. You measure light with your eyes and I'll use my meter. If that gives you good results go with it.

The budget for the shoot doesn't really matter to me. I just used my L-358 numerous times on a $100 shoot. The client was happy.

Sort of contradicting yourself a little

https://photography-on-the.net …hp?p=4332293&po​stcount=17

But as said, no need to get so upset. You obviously have a great deal of pro experience, I don't, but still everyone to their own. Hopefully the OP can draw his own conclusions and make a decision whether to buy a meter or not.