post your lighting setup diagrams please...

IVOlution wrote in post #10885965
Hey everyone, I've posted this in the people section but it should be here as well...
The site is about pics+diagrams of the lighting used. It is free and the guy you made it contacted me via Flickr just to contribute and post something, but I've decided to help him and "push" the site. Very usefull Info there...Please contributeif you can.

http://strobox.com/

Have fun

Thanks, I loved it. Just spent an hour looking. There are some amazing photo's and I love the diagrams.

IVOlution wrote in post #10885965
Hey everyone, I've posted this in the people section but it should be here as well...
The site is about pics+diagrams of the lighting used. It is free and the guy you made it contacted me via Flickr just to contribute and post something, but I've decided to help him and "push" the site. Very usefull Info there...Please contributeif you can.

http://strobox.com/

Have fun

Thank you a favorite site already.

yeah man thats an awesome site

QueenChatty wrote in post #10888292
Thanks, I loved it. Just spent an hour looking. There are some amazing photo's and I love the diagrams.

me too.. i'm hooked on this site! very informative

strobox has an iphone app too, it's pretty good: http://strobox.com/app

BrianAZ wrote in post #4844567
4:1. Key at f/8. Fill at f/4.

I'm so new at this. my lights only go from 2-6/f. I am having so many issues getting correct lighting (I dont have a light meter which I know I need to get). So how would I go about getting the settings like you have besdies getting new lights. Can I change the camera setting to compensate?

Neutral density filters on the lens or on the lights themselves. Or use the modeling lights only, and adjust white balance

Not sure what "2-6/f" means though

Maybe he meant the height adjustment of his light stands???

DerekW wrote in post #10898037
Neutral density filters on the lens or on the lights themselves. Or use the modeling lights only, and adjust white balance

Not sure what "2-6/f" means though

Might the lights be D-Lite4s or 400BX units? The power adjustment on those goes from 2.0 (25ws) to 6.0 (400ws)

The mistake here is that those are F-numbers - those are relative power settings - "setting" the key light to F/8 means you adjust the power until your light meter gives you a reading of F/8 at the subject.

It'd be very very hard to get an exact 4:1 ratio without a light meter, unless you know exactly what it looks like.

You could put the same modifier on both, and set one two stops lower than the other (power number 6.0 on key, 4.0 on fill).

Or put the same modifier on both, have both at the same power, and move one twice as far away from the subject as the other.

^^ Got to love this feature of Elinchrom Lights, no matter what combination you're using "F" 2.0 is always 25WS no matter which Elincrhom Strobe it is. .

TwoShoes wrote in post #10901166
^^ Got to love this feature of Elinchrom Lights, no matter what combination you're using "F" 2.0 is always 25WS no matter which Elincrhom Strobe it is. .

Yeah, it's great.

Not really a diagram, but behind the scene kind of shot.

Supersteve911 wrote in post #10898005
I'm so new at this. my lights only go from 2-6/f. I am having so many issues getting correct lighting (I dont have a light meter which I know I need to get). So how would I go about getting the settings like you have besdies getting new lights. Can I change the camera setting to compensate?

Use a grey card and your camera as a light meter. The key grey card shot should spike in the middle at f8 or slightly above. Then take a picture of the fill and adjust to be the number of stops below where you want it by seeing how far the spike is below the key spike.

A light meter makes it a lot easier, but it should only be the starting point that you adjust around. If you end up getting one, they tend to be slightly under for digital cameras, so I always go .5 stop above.

One of my favorite glam setups!

The best thing about this is that the model can't move out of the fill and you don't have to worry about much just shoot. The model and you can move all over. The only adjustments are if the model goes from standing to laying (adjust key angle) or if you change the camera to model distance ( I adjust the ringflash power on the fly with my wireless controls).

You can also add hair and background lights to change things up.

Mistake on the diagram, sorry, fill is 5.6 9/10ths and key is 8.0 5/10ths

Out of camera no editing....
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=920097

Edited....
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=927677

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Jeff, I think it's a great idea to have the fill light always pointing at the right direction. However, would the ringflash produce red eyes?