Any owners of Markins M10 *and* Arca Z1 out there?

René Damkot wrote in post #4882310
IMO the L version would be easier to handle if the pan control were at 90 degrees from the main control (like Linhof) instead of 45 degrees. (In image #7, you'd have to reach around 270 degrees, which is do-able, instead of 315 degrees)
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uh-ohhh, it is not apparent from any of the photos that the pan control is not 180 degrees (3 o'clock) from the drop notch (9 o'clock) but is at 4:30! In that case, the M10R configuration would put the head so tht (when oriented for portrait orientation to permit counterclockwise rotation of camera so its grip is up, not down) the drop notch at 9 o'clock, the main control is at 12 o'clock, and the pan control is at 1:30, which would seem to make that layout awkward because you have to reach around the large main knob with the left hand to somehow grasp the pan lock with the same hand!

Okay, I re-read the Rene's requirements. Since the position of the drop slot is critical in the discussion, a R version is needed to make the control knobs convenient to use. The L version will be too arkward.

Wilt wrote in post #4882480
uh-ohhh, it is not apparent from any of the photos that the pan control is not 180 degrees (3 o'clock) from the drop notch (9 o'clock) but is at 4:30! In that case, the M10R configuration would put the head so tht (when oriented for portrait orientation to permit counterclockwise rotation of camera so its grip is up, not down) the drop notch at 9 o'clock, the main control is at 12 o'clock, and the pan control is at 1:30, which would seem to make that layout awkward because you have to reach around the large main knob with the left hand to somehow grasp the pan lock with the same hand!

Yep. The pan control would be in the same place as in image 8, but the main knob would be in the way a bit...
Should be exactly the same as with an Arca Swiss Monoball Z1 or B1...

I think that would then be the worst position, but still better then what I get now in image #6 and 7...

Both not *very* good, but I think "Regular" would be slightly better.

I'm not planning to use the ballhead with the drop notch left very often (I'll probably use it in the most "ergonomic" way, since I have the L plate), but IMO it's nice to be able to use it that way at least

I bought the Markens M-10 to use on a Giottos tripod with my 40D with the battery grip and the RRS "L" plate. I bought the "left" hand model so that the main knob is turned toward me as opposed to being on the front where I would have had to reach around to tighten and loosen it. I tried several ballheads and went with the Markens because of recommendations I got from my photography professor. I absolutely love it and highly recommend it for use with the RRS "L" plate and the camera grip for the 40D. Don't worry about the load capacity of the M-10, it is by far the strongest part of my outfit, easily being stronger than the any tripod you might pair it with.

Subscribing - great thread!

For the record, my M-20 can take anything I throw at it! Why not get the M-20? The weight savings on the 10 is not even worth talking about and you;ll have something that can handle the heaviest lens you can buy.....without a special order directly from Canon or Sigma.

Actually, any of the Markins can probably handle just about any lens you could throw at it. The reason for the different sizes is that they are to be paired up with the Series 1, 2 and 3 from Gitzo - at least that is what one of the Markins guys told me. Q3 for Series 1, M10 for Series 2, and M20 for Series 3.

J

Well, I got an Email from Markins:
"It's been quite a while that the regular M10 was discontinued and replaced by the M10-L. So, the so called "regular" M10 is no longer available.
The "left" hand style doesn't mean that it is for left handed people. Regardless one's handedness the left hand style ballhead is more convenient and better suited for modern day cameras.
If you want to return the purchase since we can't do an exchange, we will gladly refund the money. Please let us know if you need an RMA for return. "

So, it looks the choice I have is either this M10-L or to end up with an Arca Z1 (And the hassle of getting the money back from customs)...
I'll have to think about that for a while.

Update:

I decided it's not worth the hassle to return the head, so I'm going to keep it and see if I can get used to it. Otherwise I'll sell it, and go with a Z1. At least I'll have tried then...

If anyone in Europe has an M10-R in good shape and would consider trading, PM me though

René Damkot wrote in post #4918711
Update:

I decided it's not worth the hassle to return the head, so I'm going to keep it and see if I can get used to it. Otherwise I'll sell it, and go with a Z1. At least I'll have tried then...

If anyone in Europe has an M10-R in good shape and would consider trading, PM me though

If you decide to sell, let me know. What QR is on it, the original Markins? How outrageous is the EU price on that... same or higher than web Markins Int'l pricing)?

QR is the Markins screw version...
I bought it for $370, including shipping. Additional customs and tax were 65 euros, so total was about 310 euros. That's about what they sell them for at markins europe excluding VAT....
About the same as the going rate for an Arca Z1.

You'd be off cheaper ordering from Markins

René Damkot wrote in post #4919036
QR is the Markins screw version...
I bought it for $370, including shipping. Additional customs and tax were 65 euros, so total was about 310 euros. That's about what they sell them for at markins europe excluding VAT....
About the same as the going rate for an Arca Z1.

You'd be off cheaper ordering from Markins

Yeah, besides I would get it without any QR, and add an RRS QR.

There's another very recent post on POTN from someone looking to buy M10L!

I gave a lot of thought and time in picking my Markens M10 ballhead and decided on the "left handed" version for the simple reason that it moves the locking knob to the back of the ballhead (facing me) when it is mounted. The "right handed" setup would place this knob on the opposite side (facing away from me) making the locking knob in the front where you would have to reach around to set it. Remember that the adjustment thumb screw, used to set the main knob's tension when you change the lens, is mounted on the inside of that knob so it is very difficult to set it when you can't see it.The second knob is on the right side of the ballhead and opposite of the slot of the ballhead. I use a RRS "L" bracket on my camera, so I don't use the slot of the ballhead to place my camera in the vertical position anyway, but the left version means that the locking knob is facing me and the adjusting knob is on the right side of the ballhead next to my right hand as I use the camera.

What's the largest recommended lens for the M10? I can't decide which Markins I want... TIA.

M10 will probably be fine for large, heavy, lenses. Not sure on recommendations, but up to a point it's pretty academic I'd say...
I'd let the choice of head depend on what tripod you have: Gitzo series 2 > Markins M10. Smaller: Q3, bigger: M20.

My M10 is "too small" for a series 3. (Not noticable in use although if you have thicker fingers the pan lock might give troubles... See the images here)

I actually discussed this issue with Markins. They will tell you that the M10 is designed with the Series 2 Gitzos in mind, the M20 for the Series 3. The Q3 is designed for the Series 1 but can also be used on the Series 2.

Just make sure you match the focal length to the proper legs. Get the matching ballhead and you are all set.

J.